Late 90's 270 Sundancer Thread

Brando

I have not had issues restarting and the engine never seems to get over 173. I have bottom paint and can get it up on plane at 3800 ish RPMs with a little trim I back it down to 3500 RPMs and cruise at 28 ish MPH. The temp gauge seems to sit a little over the 170 mark. I'll be changing the impeller at the end of the season and may swap in a 160 thermostat which I may already have but a new t-stat is cheaper than a new motor. May also try to flush the engine when I pull it this year. I have googled around and I was unable to find a real consensus.


Thanks for the info Jakester. Good luck w/the new stat, hopefully that does the trick. I think I will check & see what mine is also. Couple of quick questions on the performance you described if you don't mind.
  • 3500 cruise @ 28 MPH - Full of water & fuel? How many people can you have on at that? Does a few people make a drastic change for you?
  • Right now I run 22P props & have changed gear ratio to 2.2 due to higher elev. Going to check out running 24P & see how it works. What pitch do you run? Have you tried any different?
  • Have you changed anything with the tabs? Larger, more travel, etc? The factory tabs move relatively little compared to what I'm used to (couple inches at most) & only about 10" wide. Seems like maybe there should be a little more for the size of boat. Have you or do you know of anyone making changes to them?

Brando 76
 
As far as I know everything is stock. With more than 5 people I have a little trouble keeping it on plane in rough water. I suspect it has to do with all the crap guests tend to bring. With limited gear and a normal amount of beer you should be able to cruise at 25-29MPH easily in my opinion. I only use the trim tabs to load level and trim the engine with the throttle switch once the nose drops.
 
Does anyone have the part number handy for a starter on a 7.4? It would save me a trip down to the marina:). Please don't go out of the way to find it, not to big of a deal.


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first post... I have 2000 270 sundancer. getting rain water leak at right foot of rear bed. Any thoughts where I should start?
 
Yet another water leak question for you all. I was out last weekend and noticed a small trail of water on the port side wall above the v-berth backrest. It looks like it originates somewhere around the port nav light. Anyone have experience with water entering at the nav light and presenting itself in this area? Other ideas? Fixes?

Thanks as always for the input!
 
hi all , I haven't been on in quite a while , 2000 270 DA 7.4 mpi bravo3 here is what im looking to find out about... some of my helm gauges are starting to go bad , im looking to replace all of them , has anyone done this , and if so is there a kit or do I have to buy them all separately , any info is welcome , thanks all
 
hi all , I haven't been on in quite a while , 2000 270 DA 7.4 mpi bravo3 here is what im looking to find out about... some of my helm gauges are starting to go bad , im looking to replace all of them , has anyone done this , and if so is there a kit or do I have to buy them all separately , any info is welcome , thanks all

The gauges are all standard, but any after market gauges won't have the SeaRay symbol. You may be able to find some at Flounderpounder.com, but if you really need to replace them, you can just choose a style you like. I thought I needed some new gauges, but after taking the panel apart, and cleaning them, they all tested within specs. The speed wouldn't work despite cleaning the hole in the outdrive, until I determined the connection for the tubing had rotted away. (A new lower unit is in the works this spring).

The moral of my story, put a little time and attention to the gauges now while it is still crappy out, and don't just assume the swapping gauges will actually solve the problems.

Bryan
 
The gauges are all standard, but any after market gauges won't have the SeaRay symbol. You may be able to find some at Flounderpounder.com, but if you really need to replace them, you can just choose a style you like. I thought I needed some new gauges, but after taking the panel apart, and cleaning them, they all tested within specs. The speed wouldn't work despite cleaning the hole in the outdrive, until I determined the connection for the tubing had rotted away. (A new lower unit is in the works this spring).

The moral of my story, put a little time and attention to the gauges now while it is still crappy out, and don't just assume the swapping gauges will actually solve the problems.

Bryan

Bryan is most likely correct. However, Sea Ray introduced a type of gauge in the early 2000s called "NextGen" that was neither the traditional analog gauge, or the newer SmartCraft. These are both incompatible with traditional analog as well as SmartCraft. The NextGens were on our 02.

Before buying any new/replacement gauges you should pop one of the old ones off. The NextGen gauges can be id' by the plug. They have a six (8?) pin plug in a square housing. This may save you from buying gauges you can't use, and possibly can't return.

Henry


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Bryan is most likely correct. However, Sea Ray introduced a type of gauge in the early 2000s called "NextGen" that was neither the traditional analog gauge, or the newer SmartCraft. These are both incompatible with traditional analog as well as SmartCraft. The NextGens were on our 02.

Before buying any new/replacement gauges you should pop one of the old ones off. The NextGen gauges can be id' by the plug. They have a six (8?) pin plug in a square housing. This may save you from buying gauges you can't use, and possibly can't return.

Henry


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I just checked on his spec sheet to make sure. He does not have NextGen instrumentation.

Bryan
 
If you pull your rpm guage out there is a blue switch. Remember were you started and take a flat head and just turn the switch a bunch of times it cleans the contacts and it should work for a while. It's been on my yearly spring maintenance the last 3 years. There getting swapped out with new this year
 
If you pull your rpm guage out there is a blue switch. Remember were you started and take a flat head and just turn the switch a bunch of times it cleans the contacts and it should work for a while. It's been on my yearly spring maintenance the last 3 years. There getting swapped out with new this year


That at is a good maintenance point. If you look carefully, there should be imprinted numbers by the switch that match the number of cylinders in your engine(s).

Bryan
 
Away from the boat - can anyone confirm the 7.4 MPI has 6" risers between the manifold and elbows ? Helping a friend find exhaust system parts.
 
I have closed cooling on mine and it stays a tick over 170 when running. Gets down to 170 mark when idling.

I am having that vapor lock problem bigtime. I bought my 270 last year in June but all through August and Sept I had big problems with it. Every time I would stop, and then try to restart the engine it would start then stall out. I had to resort to opening the hatch once I stopped for about 5 min. Then open the hatch again for about 5 min before trying to start it again. And even then sometimes that wasn't enough, sometimes I had to sit for 15 min with the hatch open before I could get the engine to stay running.

I changed the fuel filter, took the box off the cool fuel system so maybe it could get more air to it.

Now I am in Louisiana in a smaller lake. So it was 95+ deg out and I was sitting in 90 deg water. I was able to make do, was just annoying. And I know it was vapor lock from the heat in the engine bay because on cloudy, cooler days there was no problem. And the boat ran just fine otherwise. It was only on those 95 deg sunny days near the end of summer when the water temp was also very hot.

I know a lot of people complain about the cool fuel system and many rip it out.

Oh and to add... my last boat had issues with this also, but it was a carb 7.4L with the mechanical fuel pump. It would start fine but then I would go to throttle up and it would studder and stall, but I could just bring it back to idle, give it a minute and it would throttle up ok after that.
 
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Anyone mounted a 7" Garmin on the helm? I'm looking at replacing the old 4" with a 7"

I actually was about to post the same question. How are people mounting their electronics? It seems a 7" screen is a good size for the boat, but every place I try to measure out is just too small in some dimension. Also, is anyone using 3rd party mounts that they like?

The chartplotter that the PO had installed was mounted on top of the helm in the driver's sigh line, and I don't personally like that. I removed it, but haven't replaced it yet.

Bryan
 
Anyone mounted a 7" Garmin on the helm? I'm looking at replacing the old 4" with a 7"
I have installed a 6" a while ago and I will upgrade it to the 7" soon. Here are the pictures. The one without the display shows I made a simple round spacer and contoured it to match the helm. It does not really get in my way as most of the time I stand during my cruise, but even sitting, its not in the way.
I also mounted an external speaker for my VHF to the side of the Garmin bracket to help me hear the radio better as the std speaker is too low to hear while underway. Hope this gives you some ideas - Mark



 
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I have installed a 6" a while ago and I will upgrade it to the 7" soon. Here are the pictures. The one without the display shows I made a simple round spacer and contoured it to match the helm. It does not really get in my way as most of the time I stand during my cruise, but even sitting, its not in the way.
I also mounted an external speaker for my VHF to the side of the Garmin bracket to help me hear the radio better as the std speaker is too low to hear while underway. Hope this gives you some ideas - Mark

That is where the PO had it on my boat. Maybe a little more towards center. And while I generally stand to drive as well, my wife doesn't have that height, nor do I when I am sitting. Thanks for the pictures, they do help.

Bryan
 
Late response to this one, but I made a new dash to accommodate an integrated 7" chart plotter.

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Late response to this one, but I made a new dash to accommodate an integrated 7" chart plotter.

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Better late than never, and the reply really isn't late. That is an interesting idea. Hmmm...

Did you fill out in the old holes behind the panel? I would be concerned with too many holes in the fiberglass.

Bryan
 

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