Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

Pierpressure1 said:
Has anyone replaced the starboard windshield wiper motor yet? If so how do you access and how long did it take.

Thanks
Click to expand...
I have not done the job, but I have heard that you access it through the cabin speaker hole. I believe that is the easy side. Port is a whole different story.
 
liv2ryde100 said:
anyone experiencing this? the two compartments in the floor in the cabin where the sump pump is, paint cracking and peeling in these compartments? anyone have this?
Click to expand...

I don't have that issue in the front sump area, but I do have a few small spots in the bilge between the stringers.
 
I think 22" is the best fit. I put 24" on last season and the lower part of the blade hits the windshield frame.
 
i bought a boat yesterday 2005 34 dancer, there was another for sale where i looked if anyone is interested
 
Happy summer everyone! Looking for an answer. I noticed water pooling/leaking in to the storage compartment right behind the galley counter. The one with the roll up storage doors. I'm thinking it's water leaking thru my bow sunpad railing which has pulled up on one stud. Anyone else experience this, and is there a way to tighten the railing back down with removing the headliner?
Thanks,
Mark
 
searay495 said:
Happy summer everyone! Looking for an answer. I noticed water pooling/leaking in to the storage compartment right behind the galley counter. The one with the roll up storage doors. I'm thinking it's water leaking thru my bow sunpad railing which has pulled up on one stud. Anyone else experience this, and is there a way to tighten the railing back down with removing the headliner?
Thanks,
Mark
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, I am very experienced with your situation. If that railing is loose and you are seeing water leaking inside, it is almost certain that the coring on your deck is wet. It seems that SeaRay did a poor job of sealing and thoroughly tightening these rails on many boats. A few of the bolts are accessible through existing holes in the ceiling, but the headliner must come out for the few that are located over the berth. My best advice to anyone in the market for a 340sda is to try to find one that did not have the bow/handhold rail option. They are prone to leaking and there is no easy way to access them for preventative maintenance. If you decide to pull out headliner, I do have a source for the headliner material which was discontinued long ago.
 
Thank you bankyf. The bolt that is obviously loose is the one next to the port "skylight". Any way of accessing that one? I made just try to seal and secure it with 5200.
 
searay495 said:
Thank you bankyf. The bolt that is obviously loose is the one next to the port "skylight". Any way of accessing that one? I made just try to seal and secure it with 5200.
Click to expand...

Yes, that one is accessible. I believe you can get to that if you remove the skylight shroud. If you have one that is loose, I would be willing to bet that you will find the others are only finger tight, and likely little or no sealant. You should try to get to every one that you can, though I believe the damage may already be done
 
bankyf said:
Yes, that one is accessible. I believe you can get to that if you remove the skylight shroud. If you have one that is loose, I would be willing to bet that you will find the others are only finger tight, and likely little or no sealant. You should try to get to every one that you can, though I believe the damage may already be done
Click to expand...

How did you repair the wet coring?
 
sfergson727 said:
How did you repair the wet coring?
Click to expand...
The majority of the wet area was re-cored from the inside. A little bit of it just wasn't realistic to get into and replace the core, so those area were injected with a Get-rot type resin from the top side. The work was done by the owner of the SeaRay dealership. He built his own tool to inject the resin in under pressure for these type of repairs. Fortunately, I didn't foot the bill for this one as I understand it would have been 20k+... The engine hatch is another story. I discovered moisture in that last fall entering around the bulkhead fittings that the power and water pass through. The dealer offered to fix that as well, but I didn't feel right about letting him do it for free and felt that I was more than capable of handling the project. We pulled it off in the fall before the boat went inside and I took it home for the winter to be re-cored That part turned out better than new. Although the average person would have ever noticed, I was able to fix all the short cuts that SeaRay took when they built it. I have no doubt that water will NEVER get in that hatch again. I took plenty of pics, so I suppose one of these days I should start a thread showing the process. I have some pics of the front deck being re-cored as well, but they are pretty scary. All of the interior in the berth area was removed. They did an amazing job of getting it all back together(after I made him redo much of it once or twice).
 
Thanks for all the input. Does anyone know how to remove the shroud? Has anyone done this and exposed the bolts we are talking about?:huh:
 
searay495 said:
Thanks for all the input. Does anyone know how to remove the shroud? Has anyone done this and exposed the bolts we are talking about?:huh:
Click to expand...

There are two small plastic caps on the bottom of the shroud. Peel them off very carefully. They are super glued on, so you need to be careful not to tear the vinyl and cause damage outside of the area covered by the cap. Once removed, you will find a phillips head screw inside of each. That should be all that is holding it up. It would be a good idea to run some water over the window while this is out to check it for any leaks. The caps can be glued back in place when you are done. I used something a little easier to remove than super glue for future removal.
 
Jeremygavin said:
I never found a good spot for regular beach chairs so we bought beach chairs that fold up camping/acordian style. These we store in the aft bench seat space no problem.
Click to expand...

We keep ours in the forward coffin (underfloor) under the cabin.
 
I have the northstar system on my boat and the Systemview dispay shows the speed but it bounces between paddle and gps. The paddle is showing about 8mph lower than the gps thereby messing with my fuel economy readings. Is there a way to simply force it to use the GPS speed instead of the paddle wheel?
 
Re: 2003.5-2008 340 Sundacer Thread

I have decided to replace the cockpit speakers next weekend. Since the boat is 3 hours away I can't measure but seem to recall that the JL 6.5" speakers are a simple swap out. Correct? I DO NOT want to do any cutting,but anyone who has done his, will I need any sort of spacers to accommodate for depth?
 
Re: 2003.5-2008 340 Sundacer Thread

sarbog said:
I have decided to replace the cockpit speakers next weekend. Since the boat is 3 hours away I can't measure but seem to recall that the JL 6.5" speakers are a simple swap out. Correct? I DO NOT want to do any cutting,but anyone who has done his, will I need any sort of spacers to accommodate for depth?
Click to expand...

Can't speak for JL, but the Polk 6.5" speakers were plug and play.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,120
Messages
1,426,612
Members
61,037
Latest member
wojozobl
Back
Top