26 inch LED TV install

Great thread really appreciate it! Question on a 2005 340da how is the cover ( muff ) around the factory installed TV attach ?
 
I spoke with a Sea Ray customer rep, the part is in house manufactured part that is discontinued. I am still searching for a resolution, please let me know if you find one. Thanks
 
Vince,

The 110 VAC outlets are not mounted in the bilge; it is in the locker directly under the helm where the DC fuse blocks are located. For me this was a completely new install as I did not have a TV mounted at that location from the factory, I had to run the wires myself. I needed to get the TV antenna wire from the amplifier over to the TV and since I was pulling wires, I used the existing DVD played and pulled audio/video signals as well. Now all three TV can watch different stations or DVD movies if I wish.

The photo I am showing there is directly under my helm behind the hatch, not in the bilge. Good lord, I am not running 110 VAC in the bilge.

I have already looked into a vinyl material to match the existing vinyl in the cabin. The future plans are to build a frame around the TV and use matching vinyl to cover it. For now it looks good without the frame, but I think it would look better with it, plus add extra support.

how does the "muff" (as you call it ) around the tv come out I am getting ready to do the same thing on my boat
 
Has anyone done a similar recent upgrade? Wondering since the home entertainment market has changed so much in the past few years with the advent of sling boxes, Apple TV, Roku etc. I'm interested in a similar setup but would want to source this to someone with experience with this type of install.
 
At some point of my posting here I mentioned the fact that I was looking for a small wine refrigerator to take the place of the old TV.Well last season I found one while shopping for boat supplies at our local RV store.This guy here fit the bill, and it will work on either AC or DC but not selectable, so I used the AC option and plugged it into the old TV outlet in the back.I build the cabinet to fit in the space left when I removed the TV and the sliding tray it was mounted to.The cabinet was build so I could secure the refrigerator with screws at the bottom.While I was added and still had a little room I added the rack for the wine glasses, plastic wine glasses of course.I also added the safety chain which goes across the door on the frig while underway, just incase the water gets heavy.So far everything is working fine, although I am thinking I may have to pull the cabinet out and cut a hole in the material used to close up the back off the cabinet in the rear and add a vent screen to get some more air moving in that back area.Sometimes when the cabin is hot to refrigerator does not cool down to the set point temperature.
 

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Thanks for the pics I did pretty much the same setup. However I went with a 40" led . 1.9" deep with an ultra thin mount. It's currently hooked up to an Apple TV with a slingbox. I'm going to run the cable to the DVD player and coax this weekend.ImageUploadedByTapatalkHD1406084389.117693.jpg
 
I know this is an old thread, but I've reached out to a couple of the posters via PM and those efforts have been unsuccessful. So I'm posting here.

A couple posts above, "sb in gp" asked a question about mounting the tv. He was installing a TV on the bulkhead, and that his boat didn't have a TV there initially. Neither does mine. He asked:

"I cut small squares in the vinyl for the TV mounting plate screws. I was expecting to find fiberglass under the vinyl, but instead encountered a thin wood substrate that feels about the thickness of paneling. Did others mount the TV directly to the thin wood under the pad? Is it strong enough?"

No one ever answered that question. So before I start cutting vinyl: how do I mounting the TV? Do I just install the TV mount into that wood backing? Are there certain mounting anchors that you used? There are no studs back there for me to go into (which is how I'd install it in a wall).

Any tips would be appreciated!

Steve

 
Pm me if you have any other questions. I racked my brain on planning this install but was able to completed it on my own with the help of a few CSR posts.
 
I just did. I'm stumped with how to get the coax past the electrical panel and from where to get AC power.


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Steve,

If I remember correctly you need to pull out the entire panel that the radio is mounted to, you'll find AC in there and a source for coax. At the helm unscrew and remove the little panel with the drink holder near your right knee. Once in there you can drill a hole in the bulkhead and fish into the area behind the radio. Run your wires and seal everything up with 4200.

Scott
 
The panel the radio is mounted to: on the helm? Wonder why AC would be there in the helm? I'll have to look.

Also, I'm trying to route the coax up the starboard side but can't see how to get thru or past the electrical panel. Guess i have to take off the panel face plate for more investigation? Or does that little hole I drilled allow me to fish all the way past the electrical and into the spaces behind the cabinet access panels? Looks like it would take a miracle to successfully fish that far and that tight?


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No the panel in the cabin. Correction, the whole electrical panel comes off and gives you access. Sorry, confusing my boats.
 
Ha! No problem. That's sort of what I was thinking might be the next step. I haven't taken off the panel before, so that will be a nice project. I hope there's enough slack in the wires. Any trick to getting the panel off, once it's unscrewed? Next weekend is supposed to be bad weather in MD,so that might be a nice indoor project.

Oh, and you were right. The Clarion radio IS mounted there. When you said "radio", I thought "VHF"!


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The panel is easy to remove and it is meant to come off to give you access. I'd probably kill the dc and unplug ac just to be safe when you're sticking hands in there. You should use stranded wire for a boat application, not solid romex. You can buy at most boat stores.
 
The panel is easy to remove and it is meant to come off to give you access. I'd probably kill the dc and unplug ac just to be safe when you're sticking hands in there. You should use stranded wire for a boat application, not solid romex. You can buy at most boat stores.

Solid advice about the power. Thank you! The reminder never hurts!

And that's interesting about the stranded wire. I saw something last week about not using solid conductor wire for power. Is this because it's more likely to break from the vibrations of the boat, or is there some chemical in the insulator or jacket of solid conductor Romex that (if on fire) could be toxic?

And now that I think about it... what does the television's power cable (the one that comes with the TV) use? Is that stranded conductor or solid conductor? Guess it doesn't matter, if thats the "easier" cable to replace?
 
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Solid advice about the power. Thank you! The reminder never hurts!

And that's interesting about the stranded wire. I saw something last week about not using solid conductor wire for power. Is this because it's more likely to break from the vibrations of the boat, or is there some chemical in the insulator or jacket of solid conductor Romex that (if on fire) could be toxic?

And now that I think about it... what does the television's power cable (the one that comes with the TV) use? Is that stranded conductor or solid conductor? Guess it doesn't matter, if thats the "easier" cable to replace?

Yes, I think stranded is better in the bouncy conditions of a boat. I think most appliance cords are stranded, so your TV cord should be fine.
 
So I got the job done. I took the old 13" vcr/tv combo out completely. And I routed just the coax, the same way hack4alivin did. Very straightforward. I actually fit a 32" on the bulkhead and it does not interfere with the power cabinet door. I ended up adding a GFI in the right hand wall of the power cabinet (facing into the mid cabin berth). That's where I ran my coax, too. Here are a couple pics of the project:
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That last pic is mounted, but obviously I hadn't completed the wire finishing. I opted to have the go out the left of the tv, turn down along the wall and then go around to the side of the power cabinet, as mentioned above. No pics of the final-final yet.


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