Official 400EC thread

Hey folks, still in small project mode on my (new to me) boat.

I have some more questions that are hopefully pretty easy.

1. Has anyone replaced the original dual trumpet horn? If so, do you recall how to access the mounting screws to remove them?

2. I'm planning to install a full motion mount and 32" TV in the same position in the galley area as others have depicted earlier in the thread. The total weight of the two is ~18lbs. Does anyone foresee this being an issue? Does anyone know the amount of space between the wall between the galley and the head?

3. On the distribution panel there are two lights beneath each shore/generator power switch. I've noticed the bottom light beneath line 2 constantly flickers. I've switched shore power cables with the same result. I've tested the batteries from the distribution panel and noted the Starboard bank shows just below 12volts. However, when I test the batteries directly they each read above 12volts (with one reading ~14volts). Any idea what this indicates?
 
Hey folks, still in small project mode on my (new to me) boat.

I have some more questions that are hopefully pretty easy.

1. Has anyone replaced the original dual trumpet horn? If so, do you recall how to access the mounting screws to remove them?

2. I'm planning to install a full motion mount and 32" TV in the same position in the galley area as others have depicted earlier in the thread. The total weight of the two is ~18lbs. Does anyone foresee this being an issue? Does anyone know the amount of space between the wall between the galley and the head?

3. On the distribution panel there are two lights beneath each shore/generator power switch. I've noticed the bottom light beneath line 2 constantly flickers. I've switched shore power cables with the same result. I've tested the batteries from the distribution panel and noted the Starboard bank shows just below 12volts. However, when I test the batteries directly they each read above 12volts (with one reading ~14volts). Any idea what this indicates?

Hope you enjoying the new boat!
The access to the air horns is behind the electrical panel. Remove the screens around the right, top and bottom edge of the panel and it will swing out on a hinge. Behind this panel is the access to the air horns, the shore power inlets and TV/phone inlet. All of these are mounted to the cabin trunk which you will see back and up from the centerline of the panel.

i have not replaced the salon tv so I cannot offer info on this point, but I have seen several people mount TVs to the wall between the galley and head. I have heard that it is solid wood, but I would be careful with the length of the screw you use.

the lights on the panel indicate if you have correct or reversed polarity from the shore power connections. The flickering light could be a bad connection, bad bulb or some other thing I am not sure about.

the voltmeter on the panel could be suffering from a bad connection(s) also or just be getting old. Mine also seems to be slightly off from the actual voltage but it has been "close enough."

hope this helps.
 
Hey folks, still in small project mode on my (new to me) boat.

I have some more questions that are hopefully pretty easy.

1. Has anyone replaced the original dual trumpet horn? If so, do you recall how to access the mounting screws to remove them?

2. I'm planning to install a full motion mount and 32" TV in the same position in the galley area as others have depicted earlier in the thread. The total weight of the two is ~18lbs. Does anyone foresee this being an issue? Does anyone know the amount of space between the wall between the galley and the head?

3. On the distribution panel there are two lights beneath each shore/generator power switch. I've noticed the bottom light beneath line 2 constantly flickers. I've switched shore power cables with the same result. I've tested the batteries from the distribution panel and noted the Starboard bank shows just below 12volts. However, when I test the batteries directly they each read above 12volts (with one reading ~14volts). Any idea what this indicates?



1. Horn, it's probably a Fiamm Tornado twin 15/17 air horn (like mine).
Harold is correct, by opening the electrical panel you can see the mounts along with the air compressor and tubing.
Not easy to reach and UNPLUG the boat's shore power to be safe..
Try looking at the tubing to ensure it ok and the compressor has a lube port you can try a drop of light oil.
Could also try opening up the back of the trumpets to clean out any cobwebs.
A replacement reed/seal kit should be available from a Fiamm dealer.
Don't drop anything into the water!

2. Back around page 12 you can see my TV mount option. Standard door hardware from HD.
The wall between the galley and head is (or should be) at least 1/2" thick plywood core + the soft padding.
I only used the standard door hinge screws that came with them.
If it can support a door....the tv should be nothing..

3. Orange lights on the electric panel.
One or two of mine have always flickered. Everything works so, I've not looked into it.
Let me know you find anything out.

Battery voltage, my house side pulls down to barely 12.5 with all the light on with full battery's.
Nothing changed when I replaced all the battery's.
It's fine on shore or genny power with the converter/charger on.

Hope this helps some,
 
Thanks for all the feedback!

I started off with number 2. I purchased a couple mounts from Amazon. The screws were 2 3/4 in., which I knew would be way too long. So, I purchased the same thread size screw from HD, but only 1in. long. Happy to report that mounting the TVs in the master stateroom and the galley was successful and secure (all without making holes in unexpected areas of the boat). Although...I think I may have been better served with TVs a couple inches smaller. :smt001

I'm going back later today to tackle 1 and 3 based on everyone's guidance.

On a different note, I'm in the market for a new electronics package (fishfinder, chartplotter, radar, etc.). I have a couple questions for those with the same.

1. How are your transducers mounted? Most bundles include transom mount skimmers. I'm just curious how effective those may be on a boat the size of ours.

2. For those with radar, did you purchase a radar mount as well? If so, what height and angle did you choose?
 
Thanks for all the feedback!

I started off with number 2. I purchased a couple mounts from Amazon. The screws were 2 3/4 in., which I knew would be way too long. So, I purchased the same thread size screw from HD, but only 1in. long. Happy to report that mounting the TVs in the master stateroom and the galley was successful and secure (all without making holes in unexpected areas of the boat). Although...I think I may have been better served with TVs a couple inches smaller. :smt001

I'm going back later today to tackle 1 and 3 based on everyone's guidance.

On a different note, I'm in the market for a new electronics package (fishfinder, chartplotter, radar, etc.). I have a couple questions for those with the same.

1. How are your transducers mounted? Most bundles include transom mount skimmers. I'm just curious how effective those may be on a boat the size of ours.

2. For those with radar, did you purchase a radar mount as well? If so, what height and angle did you choose?

Good choice getting the shorter screws. It is always nice when you can cross something off the list….. I will let you know when I get to do that……….
Any pictures? One rule of thumb on this site is, if there are no pictures it did not happen.

As for the fishfinder transducer, a transom mount transducer WILL NOT WORK on our boat. It has nothing to do with the size of the boat, but with the propulsion.Transducers need a clean, uninterrupted stream of water without any turbulence to allow the sound waves generated by the transducer to project through the water, bounce off the bottom and return to the transducer. Any air or turbulence will prevent the transmission of the sound waves to and from the transducer.Outboard and I/O powered boats can use transom mount transducers because the props are behind the transom and there is little to no turbulence at the transom itself.When the props are before the transom (as with inboards and v-drives), you will have turbulence across the width of the transom and will not be able to get the transmission to the bottom and back.(Even on outboard and i/o powered boats, you need to make sure that no through hulls, like for the generator or a/c units are in line in front of the transducer as the turbulence from them will interfere with the function of the transducer.Our boats need thru-hull transducers.There are specific locations in the hull that have backing plates built into the hull to accommodate thruhull fittings, like the seacocks, and transducers.The transducers, on my boat anyway, are mounted forward of the engines on either side of the forward central bilge.In that location, they have access to clean, uninterrupted water flow without any turbulence.Your marina should be able to do the installation when the boat is hauled.
As for the radar, mine is mounted directly on the arch. It probably could use a wedge to change the angle for a better picture of what is in front of me while underway.I am probably going to add a wedge this winter, but I still have not determined the angle yet.Any suggestions Mark?
 
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Thanks for all the feedback!

I started off with number 2. I purchased a couple mounts from Amazon. The screws were 2 3/4 in., which I knew would be way too long. So, I purchased the same thread size screw from HD, but only 1in. long. Happy to report that mounting the TVs in the master stateroom and the galley was successful and secure (all without making holes in unexpected areas of the boat). Although...I think I may have been better served with TVs a couple inches smaller. :smt001

I'm going back later today to tackle 1 and 3 based on everyone's guidance.

On a different note, I'm in the market for a new electronics package (fishfinder, chartplotter, radar, etc.). I have a couple questions for those with the same.

1. How are your transducers mounted? Most bundles include transom mount skimmers. I'm just curious how effective those may be on a boat the size of ours.

2. For those with radar, did you purchase a radar mount as well? If so, what height and angle did you choose?

My radar is also directly on the arch and not wedged to any angle.

It would be best if we could readjust the angle for best viewing at a particular boat angle (like in an airplane) but, we can't....
A boats radar beam is probably pretty wide anyway but, I notice I get a better radar return at no wake speed, remember my dome is not angled so that makes sense.

The 400EC will ride around 5 degrees nose up on plane without tabs.
So question, are you more concerned with running slow and or fast.
I'm glued to the radar screen in thick fog at no-wake speed and looking outside more in better weather.

The design of the 400EC's arch is low and standing at the helm I'd like the radar to be as high above my head as possible so it can "see" further and I just don't like the idea of my head being in the antennas beam.

If I finally redo my canvas to a higher more modern look...I'd put the Radar on at least a 5"- 8" high mount angled a few degrees down to split the difference of planing or trawling.
 
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Good choice getting the shorter screws. It is always nice when you can cross something off the list….. I will let you know when I get to do that……….
Any pictures? One rule of thumb on this site is, if there are no pictures it did not happen.

As for the fishfinder transducer, a transom mount transducer WILL NOT WORK on our boat. It has nothing to do with the size of the boat, but with the propulsion.Transducers need a clean, uninterrupted stream of water without any turbulence to allow the sound waves generated by the transducer to project through the water, bounce off the bottom and return to the transducer. Any air or turbulence will prevent the transmission of the sound waves to and from the transducer.Outboard and I/O powered boats can use transom mount transducers because the props are behind the transom and there is little to no turbulence at the transom itself.When the props are before the transom (as with inboards and v-drives), you will have turbulence across the width of the transom and will not be able to get the transmission to the bottom and back.(Even on outboard and i/o powered boats, you need to make sure that no through hulls, like for the generator or a/c units are in line in front of the transducer as the turbulence from them will interfere with the function of the transducer.Our boats need thru-hull transducers.There are specific locations in the hull that have backing plates built into the hull to accommodate thruhull fittings, like the seacocks, and transducers.The transducers, on my boat anyway, are mounted forward of the engines on either side of the forward central bilge.In that location, they have access to clean, uninterrupted water flow without any turbulence.Your marina should be able to do the installation when the boat is hauled.
As for the radar, mine is mounted directly on the arch. It probably could use a wedge to change the angle for a better picture of what is in front of me while underway.I am probably going to add a wedge this winter, but I still have not determined the angle yet.Any suggestions Mark?

Thanks.
I never knew that about transducers.
:)
 
Mark,
I worked in the industry years ago at a local boat supply store and sold electronics so I picked up a few things.

I think a wedge for your radar would be helpful as I have the same issue while on plane. Some targets do not appear on the screen that should appear, bouys mainly, which appear clearly when they behind me.

I am curious about a comment you made: you feel the radar beam is at your height level when you are standing at the helm? I guess the difference for me is that I have an open array so the body of the array raises the arm about a foot above the arch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
One rule of thumb on this site is, if there are no pictures it did not happen.

Fair enough. :smt001

Here are a couple. I'll try to get some more of the mount. Everything is secure. But, it's not as polished as I'd like. I drilled the cabinet holes for the galley TV too close to the wall. As a result, I was unable to get the grommets I purchased to fit. That said, it may only ever be noticed by me.

Thanks for the education on transducers! Really good info. Should have come here before listening to sales pitches! :grin:

Going to return the bundle I purchased and look for just an MFD and purchase a through hull transducer separately. Any all-in-one chirp, broadband, and structure in hull transducers available or am I looking at least a two transducer install?

Good info on radar too. Mainly looking to leverage at non-planing speeds. So, directly on the arch she shall go.
 

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Nice work on the TVs. Does the salon TV swing/swivel out so you see it from the settee? The size for the master stateroom could be considered big, but I like it.

i really hope the "sales pitches" did not tell you to buy a transom mount transducer. That would be troubling to me.
I try to read up on the new technology, but I have to say I don't know everything on the new transducers. I believe there are different transducers that are used for forward scan, down vu, side scan, etc. what you need and can use will most certainly depend on the brand of unit you are purchasing. Your best solution is to use a reputable shop that you trust and see what they say. I have heard good things about BOE Marine (the sponsor of this site) and I could put you in touch with the shop I worked for (they have been in business for 70+ years, third generation running it now). Second opinions never hurt.
 
Thanks! Yeah, I realized after seeing everything in place that 28" TVs probably would have been the sweet spot. But, after several trips to the store from the marina I decided to keep what I had. :smt001

Both TVs are mounted on full motion mounts. Given the arm length of the mount, I could make both TVs visible at just about any area within the cabin.

It's the mount linked below, in case anyone is curious. Just DON'T use the ~3in. Mount screws that come with it. 1in. screws of the same size should do.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WYVBR0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

I was unfortunately led to the transom mount package based on feedback from a Bass Pro Shop salesman. But, not a problem. That's what refunds are for!

Lowrance is the frontrunner for my electronics, based on my intended usage. Only decision now is whether to opt for 2 transducers (broadband & structure) or just one of the two.

Confusing things even more, I've seen Lowrance thru-hull structure scan transducers offered in a pair. Is anyone familiar with those that can comment on whether such a configuration would be required for this boat?
 
Well, another winter project added itself to the list.
during winterization the bolt on the cap of the sea water strainer decided that 22 years of service was enough. I removed the entire strainer figuring I would need to replace the whole thing on the basis that if the bolt corroded/fatigued enough to break, the rest may not be that far off. But alas, the rest of the housings seem fine, so I am in the process of cleaning everything up. I bought new bolts and already had a gasket kit. Just need to finish cleaning her up and it will be time to reassemble.

image.jpg

image.jpg

don't know why the pictures are sideways
 
Mark,
I worked in the industry years ago at a local boat supply store and sold electronics so I picked up a few things.

I think a wedge for your radar would be helpful as I have the same issue while on plane. Some targets do not appear on the screen that should appear, bouys mainly, which appear clearly when they behind me.

I am curious about a comment you made: you feel the radar beam is at your height level when you are standing at the helm? I guess the difference for me is that I have an open array so the body of the array raises the arm about a foot above the arch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Your radar is higher because it's the open aray and your canvas is the updated higher style.

If I ever get a little ahead ... I'll make my canvas like yours.
 
Fair enough. :smt001

Here are a couple. I'll try to get some more of the mount. Everything is secure. But, it's not as polished as I'd like. I drilled the cabinet holes for the galley TV too close to the wall. As a result, I was unable to get the grommets I purchased to fit. That said, it may only ever be noticed by me.

Thanks for the education on transducers! Really good info. Should have come here before listening to sales pitches! :grin:

Going to return the bundle I purchased and look for just an MFD and purchase a through hull transducer separately. Any all-in-one chirp, broadband, and structure in hull transducers available or am I looking at least a two transducer install?

Good info on radar too. Mainly looking to leverage at non-planing speeds. So, directly on the arch she shall go.

Very nice job!

I was scared my saloon TV was too big but, you maxed out that spot and it looks GREAT..

I like the custom door hiding the old TV spot.

Thank you for the pics....
 
Hello Everyone,

Recently purchased a 1994 400 EC in Canada where she unfortunately resides until the ice melts and I can bring her down to Spring Lake Michigan. I'm excited to jump up to a much larger boat, been boating my entire life, but have a general question for existing 40 EC owners. I had to purchase the boat without sea trial or firing up engines etc., but due to the fantastic price I paid, thanks in part to the favorable USD to CAD exchange rate, I'm fairly confident based on my assessment and mechanical skills she is a good buy. My question is after having owned your boats for some time what would you suggest I pay particular attention to before I launch her in early May. She will be on the hard at Keenan Marina in Spring Lake for a month to get a buff and wax job as well as a fresh coat of bottom paint. I've done all my own work on all my toys my entire life so nothing intimidates me. I just would like to take advantage of experiences here on anything you all have learned by owning a 40EC. She has 7.4L engines, and Merc generator. Marina/Broker in Canada winterized her so I am letting them summarize her, basically starting engines and gen up, to assure if anything froze up and was damaged it would be covered by marina warranty. Small price to pay $200 USD. I'll be changing all the fluids and filters myself before launch. There are few electronics on boat other than Garmin GPS and depth gauge. Any input will be greatly appreciated. Once I have some decent pictures I'll post them.

Projects I have planned are:
Fresh bottom paint
High end stereo install
New salon flooring, possibly hard wood maybe just new carpeting
Next year new Bimini top and addition of camper top, poles canvas etc.
Reupholster salon
New vinyl stripes and any other logo than needs replacement

Thank you in advance for any support
 
Hello Everyone,

Recently purchased a 1994 400 EC in Canada where she unfortunately resides until the ice melts and I can bring her down to Spring Lake Michigan. I'm excited to jump up to a much larger boat, been boating my entire life, but have a general question for existing 40 EC owners. I had to purchase the boat without sea trial or firing up engines etc., but due to the fantastic price I paid, thanks in part to the favorable USD to CAD exchange rate, I'm fairly confident based on my assessment and mechanical skills she is a good buy. My question is after having owned your boats for some time what would you suggest I pay particular attention to before I launch her in early May. She will be on the hard at Keenan Marina in Spring Lake for a month to get a buff and wax job as well as a fresh coat of bottom paint. I've done all my own work on all my toys my entire life so nothing intimidates me. I just would like to take advantage of experiences here on anything you all have learned by owning a 40EC. She has 7.4L engines, and Merc generator. Marina/Broker in Canada winterized her so I am letting them summarize her, basically starting engines and gen up, to assure if anything froze up and was damaged it would be covered by marina warranty. Small price to pay $200 USD. I'll be changing all the fluids and filters myself before launch. There are few electronics on boat other than Garmin GPS and depth gauge. Any input will be greatly appreciated. Once I have some decent pictures I'll post them.

Projects I have planned are:
Fresh bottom paint
High end stereo install
New salon flooring, possibly hard wood maybe just new carpeting
Next year new Bimini top and addition of camper top, poles canvas etc.
Reupholster salon
New vinyl stripes and any other logo than needs replacement

Thank you in advance for any support

Greg,
saw your post on Who's Who and replied there before seeing this one.
 
Congrats. I just bought the exact boat. Can wait for the ice to melt as well. It's in my lot at my shop and have been tinkering on the weekends. I had mine surveyed and they used anti-freeze to fire it up so it wouldn't need to be re winterized. Just a thought. Good luck
 
Congrats. I just bought the exact boat. Can wait for the ice to melt as well. It's in my lot at my shop and have been tinkering on the weekends. I had mine surveyed and they used anti-freeze to fire it up so it wouldn't need to be re winterized. Just a thought. Good luck

Welcome to the club? We have several CSR Members that are in CT, where do you boat out of?
 
So I am doing my "winter projects" which have become the "I want them done before the season starts" projects and wanted to ask the group something:

is is the following factory or did a prior owner do this - my starboard engine has the raw water hose barb that feeds the drip less shaft seal directly above the electrical connections for the starter motor. If the fitting leaks it is going to pour salt water right on top of the starter motor and the battery cable. Is anyone else's set up this way? Is this factory? Seems to me that this is not the best place for the fitting to be. The fitting on the port motor is on the opposite side of the starter.

(did not have my phone on me today while in the engine room so I did not get a picture)
 
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