480 DB Owners Club

you can access the intake side by removing the 2 inboard bolts that connect the pump to the tank. The outboard ones are usually lose so you can slide the pump back into place. In regards to the ammeter fluctuation, it will produce wild swings, due to partial blockage and trying to to pressurize. If it fails, you will see really high amperage pulls up to 30amps and then the breaker will pop. If it clears, then it will go back to normal. Sounds like all is good to go now.

Side note, I grow up on Cape Cod in Mashpee. Did a lot of boating on Cape and islands. I miss those adventures.

Enjoy.
 
quality time said:
Matt - the glass lens has a white rubber seal around it holding it in place in the fixture. Just use a flat blade and pry it out carefully. I believe there's an indentation for the screwdriver blade.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Click to expand...

I assume mine is the same model lights. Do you know if there's a LED replacement for those bulbs? From what I recall, mine takes two halogen bulbs.
 
That's the reason I had them apart Alex. I assumed that the same LED from Marinebeam that I used in the salon ([FONT=&quot]SP-G4-06-CW)[/FONT] would fit but they didn't work. Below is the email that I received from Nate about the correct bulbs. They were pricier than I wanted to spend so I put the project on the backburner and never got back to it. I rarely use those lights anyway.

[FONT=&quot]Aaron,[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I would recommend a warm white bulb for that application, so the surroundings are color rendered more aptly. We've got two main options for that, which would be the TW-G4-SM-WW and the TW-G4-18-WW. Both are similarly powered, but the G4-18 is slightly more compact but produces about 80% as much usable light. They are both currently on sale at $18 and $16.50 respectively, but neither are offered in cool white if you have your mind made up to go for that color temperature, but for indoor use warm white would be the better option anyway. The only reason that I don't recommend the standard side pin is that your socket looks slightly skewed and you would have to bend the pins to get the circuit to sit straight, but that is still an option. [/FONT]
 
quality time said:
That's the reason I had them apart Alex. I assumed that the same LED from Marinebeam that I used in the salon ([FONT=&amp]SP-G4-06-CW)[/FONT] would fit but they didn't work. Below is the email that I received from Nate about the correct bulbs. They were pricier than I wanted to spend so I put the project on the backburner and never got back to it. I rarely use those lights anyway.

[FONT=&amp]Aaron,[/FONT]

[FONT=&amp]I would recommend a warm white bulb for that application, so the surroundings are color rendered more aptly. We've got two main options for that, which would be the TW-G4-SM-WW and the TW-G4-18-WW. Both are similarly powered, but the G4-18 is slightly more compact but produces about 80% as much usable light. They are both currently on sale at $18 and $16.50 respectively, but neither are offered in cool white if you have your mind made up to go for that color temperature, but for indoor use warm white would be the better option anyway. The only reason that I don't recommend the standard side pin is that your socket looks slightly skewed and you would have to bend the pins to get the circuit to sit straight, but that is still an option. [/FONT]
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot for the info, Aaron.
 
Thanks very much for the info. Pump slides out to the side, inboard?
BTW, I bring my boat from Boston to Hyannis every season, then back again after labor day, just so I can access the cape, islands, block Island, montauk, etc. Previously owned a 34 Tollycraft Aft Cabin. Having a hard time adjusting to the smaller berths.
 
For LED lights give this guy a try.

http://www.scintiluna.com/

He has both Amazon and eBay stores. I did the lights on the Formula and Sea Ray and had zero issues. Almostall of his bulbs are 10-30v constant current supply, they probably come from the same factory as Marinebeams...there really only are a few that make LED assemblies like this.

He's got lights listed like the ones you're looking for at a fraction of the cost.

FYI, manufacturing cost on an assembly like these is WELL under $1 now.
 
quality time said:
I'm pretty sure mine is the 2 gallon. Definitely had room for a larger tank but I just figured it was more liquid to go stagnant.

I'm seriously considering putting a thru hull in for the kitchen sink. Perhaps next winter if I can find access.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Click to expand...

Quality Time

Have you had any issues with this sump unit, I'm at the point of making a change? If not, would you still recommend the 2 gal unit?

Thanks NP
 
I've had no issues in two seasons, it just does its thing and has never failed to pump.

I am putting a thru hull in for the kitchen sink this winter though. We find that the long corrugated sink drain hose holds a lot of funk. We tend to get a smell after doing dishes since that flushes all the standing stagnant water down the long hose run.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
My old 340 sink flowed overboard. I would like to do the same with all the sinks and leave the sump for showers and A/C only.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I've already figured out the location, just need to get up the nerve to pop a hole in the side. The kitchen sink drain hose runs behind the upholstered corner piece in the bunk stateroom. You can also access the washer thru hull there, I plan on going 6-8" above that.
 
Need help finding the post where someone raised their swim platform (I think it was Gary) a few inches I believe he used aluminum square stock,, but I cannot find the post.


Boltman
 
I think Gary's contention was that the platform on later 480's was high enough already. Early 480's & 560's had low platforms. Jackie J V did a write about shimming the platform on his 560DB.
 
I think I asked before but not sure if I got answer. What is the size of the cord for the rudders (i.e. Rudder stuffing). Based on the clearance it looks like I can raise the cap and replace in the water. Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
mquiet said:
I think I asked before but not sure if I got answer. What is the size of the cord for the rudders (i.e. Rudder stuffing). Based on the clearance it looks like I can raise the cap and replace in the water. Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
The 1997-2004 Sport Yacht Manual says to use 1/4" flax packing. I think that manual applies to your boat as well, but I am not 100% sure. I just did mine on my 400DB and used that size. A few things I learned along the way, should it be helpful:

1) The in-water leaking with the nut raised was insignificant
2) My boats nuts were already tightened down pretty low. I had room to add two rings to each rudder nut. I did not dig out what was left of the old stuff.
3) I cut my lengths to 6". That worked out just right for mine.
4) I beveled the ends at a 45 degree from the outside to the inside.
5) I used a plumbing slip nut wrench to loosen and tighten the nuts.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,350
Messages
1,430,887
Members
61,197
Latest member
Larry Hogg
Back
Top