310 Sundancer Thread (2007 & newer)

I am trying to figure out how to flush the engines with fresh water when the boat is in the water - I was told about a flush kit for mercruiser but i am not sure what i need to be able to do it - i wonder if anybody can guide me - i have twin inboard 350 mercruiser engines. thanks
Andrea
Mine has a flush connection (on the port side) for each engine. If you have these, there should have been a mating "quick connect" garden hose fitting with your owners kit.
 
Anyone have a picture or part number for that flush kit? I do not have any quick connects??

I looked for pictures before I posted but have none and my boat is 1.5 hours away in storage.
 
Thanks Havana Shamrock... that's exactly what I have in the bottom picture.
 
since you have brought it up how often are you guys/gals flushing your motors? are you using saltaway or just fresh H20, whats the procedure for this?
also my .02 i have 6.2 with v drive and my cruising speed is 22-23 knots 2 people moderate gear at 3800rpm very slight trim tab.
 
Everytime I get back to the dock..., 103 days to go!!!!
 
Can someone measure the distance between the cabinet and the corner where the forward TV is mounted ?
I'm looking to see what size TV I can mount without hanging over. Please thank you


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Here's an old pic but I can't take any measurements due to the boat being wrapped.
e3e9183985868a9a70d93ec66dd2248d.jpg

Wanna get a new HD TV while there on sale


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The TV measures 16 inches across and the new tv can't be wider than 18 inches. I'm in the process of replacing mine also. I'm replacing mine with Tvs with built in dvd players
 
Thanks let me know what you end up with...I'm gonna try and find another 12v insignia


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I'm in the process of (hopefully) purchasing a 2009 310 that has had 1.5 yrs of salt water exposure (dry-stacked, uncertain if flushed regularly). Boat spent first 4 years of life in freshwater (slipped). I will be flying to visually inspect the boat this weekend with a full survey to follow if visual goes acceptably.

My question regards risers/manifolds...

I know they are original to the boat. Does anyone have any experience regarding (a) non-invasive way to assess condition/remaining life of them and (b) parts costs involved to replace them. If anyone has diy-ed this job, I'd be interested to hear insight/recommendations as well.

Thanks in advance-
 
I'm in the process of (hopefully) purchasing a 2009 310 that has had 1.5 yrs of salt water exposure (dry-stacked, uncertain if flushed regularly). Boat spent first 4 years of life in freshwater (slipped). I will be flying to visually inspect the boat this weekend with a full survey to follow if visual goes acceptably.

My question regards risers/manifolds...

I know they are original to the boat. Does anyone have any experience regarding (a) non-invasive way to assess condition/remaining life of them and (b) parts costs involved to replace them. If anyone has diy-ed this job, I'd be interested to hear insight/recommendations as well.

Thanks in advance-

There is no non-invasive way to inspect the risers/manifolds reliably. You can try to unscrew some of the blanking plugs and put an inspection camera in there - but it is cheaper and quicker to disassemble and pay for new gaskets and re-assemble. But if risers and manifolds are 5+ years old - it is almost certainly close to the time for a change. Have it in your budget / negotiation list for certain.

Ask them to leave boat in water for a few days before you inspect - and check for water intrusion in upper transom housing (steering pin) - I had to get mine redone after it was rack-stored since the seals had dried out. When you do sea trial then do some high speed reverse - that will push water hard on the steering pin seals and pull the stern down - making it more visible if you have water intrusion.
 
I'm in the process of (hopefully) purchasing a 2009 310 that has had 1.5 yrs of salt water exposure (dry-stacked, uncertain if flushed regularly). Boat spent first 4 years of life in freshwater (slipped). I will be flying to visually inspect the boat this weekend with a full survey to follow if visual goes acceptably.

My question regards risers/manifolds...

I know they are original to the boat. Does anyone have any experience regarding (a) non-invasive way to assess condition/remaining life of them and (b) parts costs involved to replace them. If anyone has diy-ed this job, I'd be interested to hear insight/recommendations as well.

Thanks in advance-


If it helps, I bought my 05 300da with raw water cooled engines that were keep in fresh water from 2005-2010 then 2 seasons with me in brackish water. Not knowing what the situation would be, and having seen others fail at 8 years in brackish bay water i negotiated to have them changed at a discount when the mechanic had a slow period. He said the originals appeared to still have a fair amount of life in them but much of the expense is in removing and inspecting. We aready had the new manifolds and risers so I changed them out anyway. Better safe than waiting and losing an engine.

I would imagine yours have life left too, having only had 1.5 seasons in salt but you never know. If you can get some reduction for them, can't hurt.
 
There is no non-invasive way to inspect the risers/manifolds reliably. You can try to unscrew some of the blanking plugs and put an inspection camera in there - but it is cheaper and quicker to disassemble and pay for new gaskets and re-assemble. But if risers and manifolds are 5+ years old - it is almost certainly close to the time for a change. Have it in your budget / negotiation list for certain.

Ask them to leave boat in water for a few days before you inspect - and check for water intrusion in upper transom housing (steering pin) - I had to get mine redone after it was rack-stored since the seals had dried out. When you do sea trial then do some high speed reverse - that will push water hard on the steering pin seals and pull the stern down - making it more visible if you have water intrusion.

Good info, especially re the steering pin seals--thanks.

Out of curiosity, did your surveyor alert you to the condition or was this something you found post-purchase?
 
If it helps, I bought my 05 300da with raw water cooled engines that were keep in fresh water from 2005-2010 then 2 seasons with me in brackish water. Not knowing what the situation would be, and having seen others fail at 8 years in brackish bay water i negotiated to have them changed at a discount when the mechanic had a slow period. He said the originals appeared to still have a fair amount of life in them but much of the expense is in removing and inspecting. We aready had the new manifolds and risers so I changed them out anyway. Better safe than waiting and losing an engine.

I would imagine yours have life left too, having only had 1.5 seasons in salt but you never know. If you can get some reduction for them, can't hurt.

Yours is a good benchmark. That certainly helps me begin to gauge a likely timeline that I'll have to plan to remove/replace them. As you say, it's certainly not worth waiting too long and hydro-locking an engine.
 
Good info, especially re the steering pin seals--thanks.

Out of curiosity, did your surveyor alert you to the condition or was this something you found post-purchase?

nope - my surveyor did NOT find those issues... He should have...

But better find a good surveyor who knows SR boats better than mine did. I had about $10.000 worth of extra expenses from things he did not find.
 
I had about $10.000 worth of extra expenses from things he did not find.

Ouch. I've read through most of this thread history and recall that it appeared, at the time, that your surveyor was fairly thorough. Troubling to know $10K worth of "hidden" troubles could slip past him...

Thanks for the insight on the steering pin/water intrusion. I'll certainly keep it in mind as we move forward through the process.
 

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