Bravo III props - what is the difficulty for removal?

Nehalennia said:

I would caution you to not powder coat them. I don't think with powder coating you can regulate the amount of material adhered to the surface and it may cause a vibration.

Stay up on your zincs and find out if anyone has powder coated their props will success first.

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OOOOOOH possible balance problem. Damn, hadn't thought of that. I was weeks away from pulling the trigger. perhaps a re-think is in order. Thanks, I'll get back to you.... each and every one, maybe not individually but.... any way thanks:thumbsup:

I'll also agree they should be timed. It was in my maintance book how to place them. (I dont recall the publisher). You should remove the props and drive each year to service correctly. The proper tools (two big sockets) are worth it. Good luck,
Mark.

dpvandy01 said:

OOOOOOH possible balance problem. Damn, hadn't thought of that. I was weeks away from pulling the trigger. perhaps a re-think is in order. Thanks, I'll get back to you.... each and every one, maybe not individually but.... any way thanks:thumbsup:

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Yeah, It just sounds like an issue to contend with.
Just a thought, but I know that the powder coating we have done doesn't always come out evenly thick.

Takling to my guy at the fire house, we've decided to scrub the mission. Good call

wasn't there somebody on here that painted or powdercoated their BIII props?

Now back on topic!

Dave S said:

I had a vibration on my Bravo 3 on my previous 240 Sundeck when the props were not mounted properly. Remounting the outer prop made it go away.

Dave

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No prop is perfectly balanced. Just like tires on a car that cause vibrations at different speeds and need to have weights added for balance. What if by repositioning the outer prop, you moved the "out of balance" point of that prop to a position in relation to the inner prop, that lessened or eliminated your vibration? Could it be that the cavitation plate had nothing to do with that? Just a thought.

Okay so you are willing believe he got lucky enough to switch the props around to an adjustment he couldn't even see over an adjustment of blade up/blade down which he can see?

I'll asume your question is a serious one.
No, simply saying that changing the two props position relative to each other, changes the position of imbalance possibly lessening any vibration regardless of their start point in relation to the cavitation plate.

It's not a balance issue. My buddy's a 'prop guy' and he checks every prop... they're usually very close.
The vibration comes from a pulse that's created as the blades pass each other. It's not an issue anywhere but under the cavitation plate where there's not much clearance so the pulse is transferred to the drive. Less vibration equals increased drive life.
This is all valid and valuble information but if you refuse to believe it's validity, then don't do it... but don't have a dumb look on your face when someone elses boat running a B3 seems smoother than yours!

Anyway, it's all about the result, right? If you're happy with the way it's operating then that's what's important. Enjoy.

wish2fish said:

Last year my props got some scratches on them from mooring in the shallow water. While they dont' look like they are bent I would like to remove them and take them to the prop shop for checking/fine tunning.

So how hard are they to remove and what do I need to pay attention to when removing and replacing?

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Sorry to hear that your props were dinged up a bit. I took my Bravo III props to a propscan shop and was very pleased with the results... while it does not come back as pretty as the picture below they are dead accurate and run smoothly. If memory serves me correctly the outter nut is 1 7/16" (easily done with large socket and torque wrench) and the inner nut is 2 3/4" but you have to have a deep enough "socket" to fit over the end of the prop shaft. I personally bought a socket for the outter nut and the merc tool for the inner nut. Both allow you to use a torque wrench to ensure you get the props torqued to spec. I cut a piece of 2x4 the width of the cavitation plate then stick this piece of 2x4 against the cavitation plate and let the prop hit it (it will actually leave a good mark in the 2x4) this will stop the props from turning while you loosen the nuts. Make note of which way the thrust washers come off as they will (obviously) need to go back on the same way. Repeat the removal process for both props. I like to remove all of the old grease (yes even from within the prop spine sleeve (tooth brush) and then apply a fresh coat of special 101 prior to reassembly. I put a light coat on the prop spline and prop shaft spline as well as the thrust washers and thread. A light coat is all that is needed too much and it will make a mess. The props go back on using the same 2x4 to allow you to tighten the props. I do not think you will have the prop shaft anode to contend with on your boat as Dave mentioned unless it was added after the fact. I did not see them on the new boats until 2004/2005.

I personally had no problems with my BIII regardless of where the ears crossed. Best of luck.

wish2fish said:

wasn't there somebody on here that painted or powdercoated their BIII props?

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Yes I bought some aerosol bling-in-a-can and sprayed the props see picture below I think they came out well. I bought the spray from a commercial just after the Jerry Springer show @ 3AM). I called within an hour and doubled my order for just $19.99





For those that are typing bamzu.com into their browsers right now... I am kidding... these were polished not a magic spray.... haha

Those r' purdy!
Did you notice any performance increase having them polished?
I see all the race props are 'lab' finish...

Wow I need a set of those for my boat those are nice looking!

Polishing produced no performance improvement. I took a future set (not polished) of BIII props and both my Alpha props to the local prop scan shop... I noticed reduced vibrations and a small kick in efficiency.

can I ask what it cost to get them polished?

280 SeaRay said:

Polishing produced no performance improvement. I took a future set (not polished) of BIII props and both my Alpha props to the local prop scan shop... I noticed reduced vibrations and a small kick in efficiency.

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Ah... noticed a small kick in efficiency? That would tell me it's worth it then as long as it didn't cost a fortune to get them done.

Please understand that the polishing was done by a polishing shop not a prop shop. I suspect they know little about how to tune or make the props better. The polished props produced no (as in zero) noticeable different in performance, efficiency, speed, hole shot... they just looked really nice.

I took a set of Bravo III props in (completely different set than the polished ones pictured) as well as both my alpha drive props into a prop-scan shop. The Bravo III props and my current alpha props exhibited less vibration and a small advantage in fuel efficiency. The prop scanned props are not as pretty (see picture below).



Sorry for the mess on the inner portion of the prop.... that is what happens when you are a little generous with the Special 101.

I hope this helps clear any confusion.

Todd... I think polishing was $90-100 per prop.... prop scan was in the $250 range per prop if memory serves me correctly.

Do they polish any props, can I just take the props off my BIII and get them polished.

280 SeaRay said:

.... prop scan was in the $250 range per prop if memory serves me correctly.

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So this would set me back $1,000 to get them scanned. The thing is even if I had this done I would just get them dinged again.

If I had a vibration issue it’s possibly justifiable. But since all is fine now I do not plan to do this.

Morpheus said:

Do they polish any props, can I just take the props off my BIII and get them polished.

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Yes. I would clean all of the grease from the splines before taking them for polishing.

Presentation said:

So this would set me back $1,000 to get them scanned. The thing is even if I had this done I would just get them dinged again.

If I had a vibration issue it’s possibly justifiable. But since all is fine now I do not plan to do this.

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Understand that $250 a prop is California pricing... likely cheaper most other places. . I did my BIII set which had no damage just to experience the difference on a set of factory props. My Alpha props had damage from a mistake I made early season last year. The price included the damage repair. The BIII props were basically brand new out of the box. I ran em a few times just to get a baseline "feel". I noticed no vibration or other poor performance characteristics. Once I got them back I ran them again.... I lost vibration I never realized I had and gained a smoothness that was pretty remarkable. It difference is nice but I would certainly not spend the $$ on new props.. wait until you get a ding and then get value from the work.