Official 370 Sundancer thread

I am installing a new nova Kool 5810 this weekend. Does anyone have pictures of there install?

what did you use to cut the extra .5 inch to fit the 5810?
 
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JS,
what type of saw did you use to cut the extra .5 inch at the top of the cabinet to fit the new nova kool 5810?

did you need to remove the bottom step? Or the stove top ss railing?
 
Kailherd said:
JS,
what type of saw did you use to cut the extra .5 inch at the top of the cabinet to fit the new nova kool 5810?

did you need to remove the bottom step? Or the stove top ss railing?
Click to expand...
Kailherd,
I'm installing the fridge as I type. It squeezed through the doorway without having to remove the cabin door, but we had to remove the fridge door and trim. We also had to unscrew the radiator cooling tubes and compress them slightly as we dropped the fridge though the doorway. Using a sheet to protect the doorway was key.
Your boat may be sized slightly differently which could prevent you from doing what I did, but worst case you can completely remove the cabin door... Thankfully I didn't have to.

I used an "oscillating multi tool" to cut the .5" or so out of the top of the cabinet. It worked great.

You absolutely do not need to remove the handle bar above the fridge, just turn the trim flange on the fridge upside down so the skinny edge is on top and it fits perfectly with the handle bar in place.

We set the trim flange to the middle depth to allow for more door swing, but the fridge could have been set back even further if you wanted the door to appear more flush.

We replaced our stairs at the same time as the fridge, so I'm not 100% sure if you would need to do anything to your stairs to get it in. However I think that if you can get your old fridge out without moving your stairs then you should prob be able to get the new one in.

The 5.4 cf is huge compaired to the old one, and I'm really happy I made the change.

Ive got some photos that I'll try to attach.
 
Does anyone know where to find a windshield gasket for the power vent for a 1998 370 sundancer?
 
Historically you could get them directly from Taylor Made, but now they are making us go through the dealer (I had to call marinemax and they ordered from taylor)

vent gasket p/n 8352000 5 feet required
 
Hi Folks,
This is my first post. I got my '95 370DA about 2 months ago, and am trying to deal with a few basic issues, while upgrading certain aspects toward creating a killer fishing machine. I'm currently waiting on a pair of 36' outriggers, which I'm hoping won't look TOO ridiculous, and I'm hoping to figure out a way to remove them entirely, and leave at the dock when not in use. ...but I digress...

I just figured out that the vibration I thought was a bit much since I got the boat was in fact, a bit much, and evidently related to a pair of bent shafts or props! At least I now have an explanation of why those 8.1L engines, which seem to purr so smoothly at lower RPMs are only pushing her at around 23 MPH! So now, I'm looking to haul the boat. As it turns out, I've got a 40 ft flatbed trailer that would make a perfect (mobile) home while I work on her, if I could fit it with cradles. :smt100 My question is; can anyone help me with information re: where I need to put those bunks, and any other specifics as to their construction? If I just had the details as to what I'd need to build to put her on dry ground, I could modify that to work on the trailer.

Ironically, I already have both an '87 268DA, AND '95 330DA, both project boats for several years, and this purchase was supposed to be the boat that actually runs... but that being said, I feel closer than ever to having a working boat! Sundancers are clearly the best boats I've never quite had on the water!!!
 
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Bubba Shea said:
Gene and Phil,

Thank you both. Gene, what pitch are you running on the 4 blades? I spoke with the rep from Michigan, he recommended going down to 18x20 vs the 18x21 3 blade on there now.

Phil, we narrowed my issue down to the starboard side, unfortunately the port side won't be needed.

I filed a claim with my insurance, Boat US, and will be sending them the estimate from my marina shop. Shop is recommending new props, alignment/inspection and sea trial before closing out the claim. Any further advise or suggestions?

Thank you both again.

Bryan
Click to expand...

Bryan,

Sorry I haven't been keeping up w/ this thread. As Gene said, 18 x 20. The guys at General Prop said the same thing. At one point I'd reduced the 4 bladed down to 18 x 18 to get the RPMs up but it actually made no difference in top end speed (still can't get more than 24 knts out of it) or maneuvering. Definitely something amiss w/ my baby.

Phil
 
Phil,

Actually we wound up going with 3 blade Michigan DJX 18 x 21, primarily due to availability of 4 blade props and my upcoming boat/vacation. Interestingly enough, with the new 3 blades I saw an average of 1-1.5 knot increase in speed at cruise, and while I don't have fuel flow meters, I swear I burned less fuel. Something tells me that the old props were old and tired. The previous owner had them reconditioned 2x (that I know of), maybe that takes something away? Very happy so far.

I was cruising with full water, 3/4 fuel and 7 on board at 19.5, previously I was lucky to see 18 knots (at 3200 RPM).

Bryan
 
Bubba Shea said:
Phil,

Actually we wound up going with 3 blade Michigan DJX 18 x 21, primarily due to availability of 4 blade props and my upcoming boat/vacation. Interestingly enough, with the new 3 blades I saw an average of 1-1.5 knot increase in speed at cruise, and while I don't have fuel flow meters, I swear I burned less fuel. Something tells me that the old props were old and tired. The previous owner had them reconditioned 2x (that I know of), maybe that takes something away? Very happy so far.

I was cruising with full water, 3/4 fuel and 7 on board at 19.5, previously I was lucky to see 18 knots (at 3200 RPM).

Bryan
Click to expand...

Bryan,

Glad you're having better performance w/ the original sized props. When I original bought my 370 and decided to change the original damaged 18 x 21s, I asked the Marinemax guys their opinion between the 4 blades as opposed to the original and they advise me to keep the 3 bladed 18 x 21s. As it turned out, I went w/ General Props recommendation and got the 4 bladed 18 x 20s and kind of regretted that decision given subsequent events. I'm lucky to be getting 14 knots at 3200 rpm w/ a recently cleaned bottom.

Phil
 
Phil,

We just finished an extended cruise on the Chesapeake - one whole week 4 different ports. Overall I would say I am running at least 1knot faster at the same cruise rpm (3400) - doing about 18 knots average. Before I was happy with 16.5. Very happy with the results, but not sure if it is due to a new design (I am told the newer props are different than the originals) or just that the old ones were "tired". Maneuverability around the docks also seems to have improved.

Bryan
 
Anyone have pics of the waterlift vs log type mufflers?
As I look at listings, I want to rule out (or negotiate accordingly) any 370's that might still be out there unmodified?
I did try to read the whole thread, along with a search, and have learned a ton, even found the original service bulletin! Alas, I'm a visual person, and could really use comparison pictures.

I have found this model Sundancer to be exceptionally unique, with nothing comparable since, and look forward to stepping up to one soon!
Thanks in advance

Laurence
 
John_Gault said:
Anyone have pics of the waterlift vs log type mufflers?
As I look at listings, I want to rule out (or negotiate accordingly) any 370's that might still be out there unmodified?
I did try to read the whole thread, along with a search, and have learned a ton, even found the original service bulletin! Alas, I'm a visual person, and could really use comparison pictures.

I have found this model Sundancer to be exceptionally unique, with nothing comparable since, and look forward to stepping up to one soon!
Thanks in advance

Laurence
Click to expand...

Compare this picture:

http://www.370sundancer.com/1998/photos-2/#!prettyPhoto[gallery]/12/

with this picture:
http://www.370sundancer.com/1995/photos-233/#!prettyPhoto[gallery]/17/

The first is my boat which has the water lift mufflers and the other a 95 boat with the log style.

Gene
 
Can somebody take a photo of the way their vent window gaskets are arranged. I'm replacing mine (for the second time) this weekend and wondering what the proper corner arrangement is.
 
Has anyone had this Cruise Air problem? 1998 370

1998 370 Sundancer

Did a thread search and employed some of the ideas today, but to no avail.

Two days ago we were running the a/c. Everything was working properly, then the front unit stopped and it had a Hi P5 code. About 5 minutes later, the aft unit stopped with a LOW P5 code. Did a search and tried the following remedies:

- took boat out and brought up to speed - nothing upon return to the dock
- checked for any obstructions to the sea strainer - completely clean
- took a hose and forced water from the outside backwards, loosened the strainer lid hoping it was air - didn't work after trying this.
- removed both hoses from the single pump unit and blew water through both - didn't resolve the problem.

After trying all of the above, here's what did happen.

- pump would only kick on for the aft air, it would cycle water for about 2 minutes then shut off - but gave no code.
- pump would not kick on at all for the forward unit, no water cycle or anything.

Not sure where to go from here, but am open to suggestions.

Thanks
 
I had a similar problem this weekend with my 2011 370 sundancer. Mine is probably different from yours as I only have one unit but was getting the hp message and the ac would kick on for a couple of minutes then turn off. After checking numerous items, I found air in my water pump just pass the seacock and strainer. I disconnected the hose coming from the pump (after closing sea cock). Then gradually opened seacock to bleed the air out. Put everything back together and ac worked fine after that. Luckily I found another Searay owner at the marina that had similar issues in the past and he was a big help. We also tested by hooking a fresh water hose up to the system just past the pump and this worked fine so we figured it was either air in the pump or a bad pump.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Tried the above, but to no avail.

I'm wondering if there is a breaker/fuse panel somewhere that I can't find - and may have tripped it?

Anyone with a +/- 98' 370 that can maybe tell me where this may be found?

Also, is it just the one pump that services both ac units?
 
Fly'n Family said:
Tried the above, but to no avail.

I'm wondering if there is a breaker/fuse panel somewhere that I can't find - and may have tripped it?

Anyone with a +/- 98' 370 that can maybe tell me where this may be found?

Also, is it just the one pump that services both ac units?
Click to expand...

One pump serves both units. You might want to check for a thread on "triggers" on the AC, sometimes that is the issue. But I've seen that the Low PS code is an issue with coolant in the AC unit itself. I think HI PS may be an issue with the water circulation. Or I may have them reversed. Check for a thread on the AC units.

Gene
 
Like Gene said, one pump takes care of both units. The pump is fed from the breaker for the aft unit. The aft unit does not have to be running but the breaker must be on for the front unit to start the pump and run on it's own. Alot of times I will just run the front unit to maintain cabin temperature and let the aft unit sit idle.

Fault codes: LO/PS = suction pressure below 30 psi, HI/PS = head pressure above 425 psi

Do yourself a favor and download the SMX II manual from the Cruiseair website and either print it out or keep it on your Ipad that stays on the boat..........you do have a dedicated Ipad for the boat right:huh:
 
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