Official 330/350 (2008 and newer) Thread

Mine is on the forward bulkhead in the engine compartment just starboard of the main panels.
 
John-Burgess said:
I appreciate the helpful feedback to my questions on this forum thread. Always helps to get more than one opinion as well as learn from others efforts. I thought I would post a picture of my helm with the retrofitted new plotter, autopilot and data display. Two years ago I had a Raymarine E125 Hybrid Touch plotter installed in place of the original C80. Even though the E125 is a 12" display, the way the control buttons and the slimmer sides made it possible, with some cutting, to shoehorn in the 12" display.

Last season I had a Raymarine Autopilot with the P70r display and also an i70 installed on the helm above the Start/Stop Engine switches. I opted for the i70 to balance out the instruments as well as get data for fuel consumption, etc. It was a real nightmare to interface to the Smartcraft system and required a Mercury NEMA2000 Gateway Module to also be installed. I can't get all the functions that are available on the Smartcraft display because of some apparent funky connections but I get many. I had all of the electronics installed by Seaport Communications in Narragansett, RI. Super team headed up by Manny Mederios. I could not power on the Smartcraft in the picture today as Port engine raw water pump shaft seized up on Monday and shot half the shaft with the pulley attached into a support strut. Waiting for repairs this week :(.
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John, sorry to hear, but can you put this into layman's terms - what caused this, how did you detect it, and is this something we should be on the lookout for, ie any way to prevent?

Port engine raw water pump shaft seized up on Monday and shot half the shaft with the pulley attached into a support strut.
 
wjglampe said:
Mine is on the forward bulkhead in the engine compartment just starboard of the main panels.
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Thanks - the marina called (excellent response, effort, and work, as always), and said all fixed, but I'll need to post later, with what the fix was. I think it was very minor/simple, thankfully!
 
Art, this is the pump for the sea water that flows through the heat exchangers to cool down the engine coolant similar to what a car's radiator does. The marina mechanic indicated it was quite a catastrophic event where the bearing seized up and the "fan belt" (actually called serpentine belt) was turning the pulley and the shaft of the pump actually snapped in 2 with the pulley and piece of shaft shooting into a support towards the transom. I'm guessing the bearing seal failed allowing water to intrude. Might have been water in the pump that did not drain fully during winterization thus damaging the seal. During the test run by the mechanic last week after "splashing" for the season, the bearing seized and the unit failed. I've seen references on the web to overly tight serpentine belts causing seal to fail due to pulley being pulled upwards instead of straight. You know what it fails due to rising temperatures and eventually engine will shut down at a predefined temperature as in the case of my engine.

On another note I tried to post the picture of my helm and keep getting "error 93mb too large". Same error all the way down to 50mb size picture. It is jpeg file off of iPhone so I finally gave up after doing more than 10 size reductions. Any thoughts?

Glad your windlass problem was minor.
 
John, sorry for the delayed response regarding the wires for ACC1 on the dash. On my boat, ACC1 is wired to a red/violet #14 wire designated #500. Just inches out of the electrical interface module under the dash(the box with the push breakers) this wire splices to a brown #14 wire designated #349. That's the brown wire you found that goes to the waterproof plug that is unused. As I stated before, this was clearly done at the factory because it was inside the factory loom all the way but it was not shown on any of the wiring diagrams in the owners manual. Frustrating but at least I found it. ACC1 is now under platform lights and ACC2 is underwater lights. It me up if you still have trouble.


Sent from my P6095 using Tapatalk
 
John-Burgess said:
Art, this is the pump for the sea water that flows through the heat exchangers to cool down the engine coolant similar to what a car's radiator does. The marina mechanic indicated it was quite a catastrophic event where the bearing seized up and the "fan belt" (actually called serpentine belt) was turning the pulley and the shaft of the pump actually snapped in 2 with the pulley and piece of shaft shooting into a support towards the transom. I'm guessing the bearing seal failed allowing water to intrude. Might have been water in the pump that did not drain fully during winterization thus damaging the seal. During the test run by the mechanic last week after "splashing" for the season, the bearing seized and the unit failed. I've seen references on the web to overly tight serpentine belts causing seal to fail due to pulley being pulled upwards instead of straight. You know what it fails due to rising temperatures and eventually engine will shut down at a predefined temperature as in the case of my engine.

On another note I tried to post the picture of my helm and keep getting "error 93mb too large". Same error all the way down to 50mb size picture. It is jpeg file off of iPhone so I finally gave up after doing more than 10 size reductions. Any thoughts?

Glad your windlass problem was minor.
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The only good here, is that you weren't half way to the Cape, and it was detected early in the season. My marina doesn't take the boats for a run, upon spring commissioning, but in your case it really was to your benefit. I assume the other side is OK?

Regarding your picture, can you get it to your desktop, and grab a screenshot of it, then save and post?

OK, so here was the diagnosis on the windlass. Both I and the yard are highly embarrassed here. I didn't disengage the lock, at the gypsy, so even though I turned the windlass on, via the anchor button at the helm, it wouldn't deploy. When the yard went to test it, they found the lock was engaged, and took care of that, but didn't know to turn the windlass on, via the anchor button. At that point, they were ready to dig further to find the power. I sent across the owners manual, and highlighted the helm switches. We both had a good laugh!
 
Hi all...I connected city water to the boat, have flow at hose, but not flowing through the regulator. Does that mean the regulator is no good, or could it be something else?

I pulled it out, but don't know what I'm looking for, to determine if it needs replacing. Since I got it out, seems like an easy fix, to buy a new one, and put it in. For $40 I'm done, just don't want to waste the money if there's something else I should be looking for.

Thanks for any suggestions.
 
Take apart the regulator and check for dirt jamming it up. Then attach it to the end of the hose and see if water comes out the other end.
 
Update: while I got good flow at home this morning, I tested with the marina water, and sure enough no flow. Ran to WM to buy a new regulator, went back to the boat, and installed it.
 
Boat was put in this week, so I had the Oil and Filters (Oil & Fuel) changed. The Marina that did the service said the Starboard Fuel filter had a lot of what looked like caulk beads in it? I'm the second owner and I'm not 100% sure if these had ever been changed. I'm guessing the caulk was most likely from when the boat was originally built, but wondered if someone has seen anything similar?
 
Hello,


I would like to replace the anchor line and chain. Our vessel has about 15' of stock 5/8" chain with about 100' of line. Any recommendations for the length of chain and line given a Sundancer 330 and the space in the bow? I do not plan to anchor in a depth more than 50' and likely staying less than 25'. And on a side note, should I expect any change in fuel consumption given additional chain weight?


Thanks,
Jess
 
Quail Harvester said:
Hello,


I would like to replace the anchor line and chain. Our vessel has about 15' of stock 5/8" chain with about 100' of line. Any recommendations for the length of chain and line given a Sundancer 330 and the space in the bow? I do not plan to anchor in a depth more than 50' and likely staying less than 25'. And on a side note, should I expect any change in fuel consumption given additional chain weight?

Thanks,
Jess
Click to expand...

Are you going to stick with chain and rope or go all chain?
You don't have anywhere near enough line to anchor in 50' of water.

5 to 1 Ratio in flat calm seas (At 50' that's 250')
7 to 1 Ratio in Normal (At 50' that's 350')
10 to 1 Ratio in windy/rough seas (At 50' that's 500')
BoatUS has a helpful guide here: http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/anchors-and-rodes.asp

I'd go with 25' of chain and 150' of line. This gives you an anchor depth up to 25' in normal conditions. (up to 35' when flat calm) If you need to be in deeper water go with 200' of line.

I mainly anchor in 20' or less and have 25' of chain and 150' of line.
 
My boat has 150' of chain and 250' of rope. The extra weight in the bow helps keep the nose down when cruising at low speeds. All that chain really helps the anchor hold fast as well.

Sent from my RM-927_nam_vzw_100 using Tapatalk
 
Just turned back, for what was going to be a 5 night trip to Block Island. Went about 15 minutes, and both engines had an Engine Voltage warning tripped on the Vessel View. I drilled a layer down, and it said engine voltage relay not working properly, return to port immediately. We docked the boat, turned it off, cleared the codes, shut down the batteries, and fired her back up. I tried throttle only, put both engines in gear, synced the engines, and couldn't get the codes to come up.

Does anyone one have any suggestions for what else to do, look for, or is there a chance there may be no issue. The boost ran perfect for the 30 minutes we were on the water, temp, pressures, battery voltage around 13-14, we're all normal.
 
ziekman@cox.net said:
Just turned back, for what was going to be a 5 night trip to Block Island. Went about 15 minutes, and both engines had an Engine Voltage warning tripped on the Vessel View. I drilled a layer down, and it said engine voltage relay not working properly, return to port immediately. We docked the boat, turned it off, cleared the codes, shut down the batteries, and fired her back up. I tried throttle only, put both engines in gear, synced the engines, and couldn't get the codes to come up.

Does anyone one have any suggestions for what else to do, look for, or is there a chance there may be no issue. The boost ran perfect for the 30 minutes we were on the water, temp, pressures, battery voltage around 13-14, we're all normal.
Click to expand...

While not familiar with this specific issue, the alarm and warning sounds similar to something I've seen with a faulty sensor before. Mechanically there was nothing wrong, but the reading was incorrect. Sensor changed, problem solved.

Do you analog gauges show any voltage irregularities? When my vessel view goes off I almost always look at my analog gauges to see if it's just the computer having an issue.
 
WDCboater said:
While not familiar with this specific issue, the alarm and warning sounds similar to something I've seen with a faulty sensor before. Mechanically there was nothing wrong, but the reading was incorrect. Sensor changed, problem solved.

Do you analog gauges show any voltage irregularities? When my vessel view goes off I almost always look at my analog gauges to see if it's just the computer having an issue.
Click to expand...

Exactly what I observed, the analog gauges were displaying normal levels, all around. The marina load tested the batteries, and found one very loose connection at one of the battery terminals. Problem solved, and now on a mooring on Block Island for 5 nights. Only 3 boats here, but will fill to near capacity by Sun.
 
WDCboater said:
Glad you got it fixed and made it out!
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thanks, Ryan. About 2.5 hours, with flat to 1 ft seas across the Long Island, Fischers, and Block Island Sounds, 5-10 kts off the bow, but very nice conditions, boat ran very well, as she always does. I had a RM Evolution auto pilot installed this spring, and got to use it for the first time (Bill, I know you were asking...) and I'm only sorry I didn't do this from day 1. Anyone one with one knows, but to not have to work to keep on course, it is so much easier to run the boat-wow!
 
ziekman@cox.net said:
thanks, Ryan. About 2.5 hours, with flat to 1 ft seas across the Long Island, Fischers, and Block Island Sounds, 5-10 kts off the bow, but very nice conditions, boat ran very well, as she always does. I had a RM Evolution auto pilot installed this spring, and got to use it for the first time (Bill, I know you were asking...) and I'm only sorry I didn't do this from day 1. Anyone one with one knows, but to not have to work to keep on course, it is so much easier to run the boat-wow!
Click to expand...

Glad to hear your thoughts on the autopilot. That's something I've considered, but haven't pulled the trigger on yet. I have plenty of space for it on the dash.

Quick question, totally unrelated have you changed your own spark plugs on your 8.1's before? I got the plugs and am pondering doing it myself, but access looks to be a huge pain.
 
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