310 Sundancer Thread (2007 & newer)

Seastheday2 said:
Issue with water getting into our cabin. I have the the boat on blocks for the winter. I haven't shrink wrapped yet as I still working on some things. I am getting rain thru the canvas thru the cabin door and into the cabin.

I will be putting a tarp to stop the water. I would expect the cabin door To be a little more water proof. Anyone else have issues with leaks?
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My cabin door does not leak.

Is it blocked with the bow up?
 
A question to our esteemed group. Has anyone mounted a dinghy on the swim platform? I'm looking to use the Hurley H2O davits but am concerned about weight and the height of the platform off the water. Asked the same question on the General discussion board under dinghies, but nothing specific to our boat. I'm open to suggestions.......
 
tobrie7 said:
A question to our esteemed group. Has anyone mounted a dinghy on the swim platform? I'm looking to use the Hurley H2O davits but am concerned about weight and the height of the platform off the water. Asked the same question on the General discussion board under dinghies, but nothing specific to our boat. I'm open to suggestions.......
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I'm looking into the options at the moment as well. Weight should not be a problem unless you build a concrete dinghy :)

The biggest "issue" with our built in swimplatform vs attached is we have less space inside - limiting the length of the dinghy to about 2.45-2.55m. My research lead me to the Mercury Dynamic Rib 260 (US) or Dynamic Rib 270 (international) - they should fit and are light weight. (38-45 kg without engine)
 
IMG_1935.jpgIMG_1936.jpgSorry for the delay in posting these. Could not upload! Does anyone here know how to wire into the accessory switches on a 2008 310? My accessory 2 turns on and off the swim platform lighting. I want to wire some 12V LED's to the accessory 1.
 
Has anyone here had experience with the extended swim platform for the 310/330? Saw it at the Miami Boat Show and am real interested!
 
Glen - I have not tried connecting anything up to the switches yet. But I would guess you should look at the fuse box. That is where I think you will get the "power from" (Fusebox with the white "pushbutton resets") - I think that is connected to the panel switches and has relays inside - but I have not had time to open one up yet...

Anyway - I have redone my helm layout. Since layout is not final (apart from where I cut into the fibreglass) - I have "re-used" the old panel with some glue to patch up the gaps left from moving the VesselView. But I have moved EVERYTHING related to engine controls into the fibreglass (CAN Pad for Axius, Engine Power On - and VesselView) to make room for my Simrad NSS8 and Lowrance HDS G2 12" Touch screen.

I also moved the spotlight control since it was being knocked "to on" position every time someone with a handbag entered or exited the cabin :). It is not final yet but I'm quite happy with it so far.

Picture:

Simrad Lowrance redesigned 2008 310DA helm.jpg

And as I wrote in another thread - Mercruiser has launched a new VesselView - that seems very compatible with Simrad/Lowrance. So I think a new VesselView will be on the order list. From my blog: http://www.marine-review.com/2013/02/news/mercury-introduces-vesselview-4-and-vesselview-7/
 
Glen said:
Has anyone here had experience with the extended swim platform for the 310/330? Saw it at the Miami Boat Show and am real interested!
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Here's one:
http://swimplatforms.com/BoatMakesModels/SeaRay/SeaRay330Sundancer1013/tabid/4913/Default.aspx

I would like more detail on the framing for your camper canvas! Did you mount bimini framing to the sides on the back?

For the Acc. switches... Acc. 2 comes out in the bilge and Acc. 1 should be under the dash. I am told that the wiring is stubbed off and wrapped up in the wire bundles. Both come out of the respective ECM's
 
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There is support tubing mounted, we used flush mount brackets. Jason at Soft Shell Custom Canvas in Florida came up and built this. We are very happy with it.

I assume from what you said that I should find an Acc 1 wire to tie into under the dash.

Thanks for the info.
 
JimG,

Also have checked out swimplatform.com and although a very nice platform, the one I saw at the Miami Show looked like in was integrated! I will try to post a pic of it. I spoke with my local dealer and they said Sea Ray will sell it to me but won't warranty it for my year model? Something about the support although it is the same boat.Sea Ray Platform.jpg
 
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Glen said:
JimG,

Also have checked out swimplatform.com and although a very nice platform, the one I saw at the Miami Show looked like in was integrated! I will try to post a pic of it. I spoke with my local dealer and they said Sea Ray will sell it to me but won't warranty it for my year model? Something about the support although it is the same boat.View attachment 29346
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Glen,

My dealer (MarineMax) basically said the same thing - any extension to a previous 310/330 (07 to 11/12) would void the hull warranty through Sea Ray. Apparently, for the new model year, Sea Ray "beefed up" additional supports in the molded in platform to support the extension. I wanted to add the same platform, but am now at a standstill.
 
Is it a kenyon grill? Had the same problem - called kenyon they shipped me free new resistor amd problem was solved. It seems it was a known problem to them.

Bugsy24 said:
Okay, I've got a few Issues... not "World Impacting" but issues just the same!
1) When I turn on the the Clarion Multi-function "Boom Box" I get terrible static and whistles on AM!! Forget about FM (all the Spanish Stations come in clear)... Please don't take Offense but I don't Habla Espanol!!
2) The boat came with a built in Electric Grill next to the Aft Sink!!!! The last time I used it it kept shutting off, right in the middle of cooking Tube Steaks (which really pissed me off)!

I do not have a separate AM/FM antennae just what came with the Boat!!
The grill has an inline Breaker.... on my panel there's a Breaker for Aux. on the AC panel and DC panel.... is this what energizes the Grill????
Thanks in Advance,
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A1308 said:
Is it a kenyon grill? Had the same problem - called kenyon they shipped me free new resistor amd problem was solved. It seems it was a known problem to them.
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Emailed Kenyon yesterday and a Customer Rep. called me today and is sending out a new Heating Element to swap out and extending the warrantee for another 3 years!
Wow what Great Customer Service. :smt038
 
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Hello Folks... I hope everyone is doing well and gearing up for the Boating season (For those in US). I have a couple of questions.

#1 With all the rain here in the midwest, I noticed a small leak believe it or not above and a bit forward of the galley sink. (An inch aft and it would drip directly into the sink instead of on the corner of the counter top). It seems to be dripping from the curbed vinyl piece on the ceiling that is molded and curves along with the curtain rail. Could this be from either the main railing or possibly with the sun pad rails. Please let me know your thoughts.

#2 I'm replacing the TV, and I can run the power cord to behind the Electric panels. (I'm assuming I need to remove the door also). My question is whether I need to remove the top or the bottom panel to access the tv power? (Top panel has stereo, water level indicator... and bottom has all the guts and main control panel).

Thanks in advance!
Mike
 
Hi Mike,

mine is open at the moment - so here is a picture:

1-IMG_0779.jpg

Anyway - powercable to the tv is in the upper middle part (on mine) on the rear wall in a standard 110v socket (black box in picture). But the the easiest to access is to take the A/C-D/C panel off. Then find someone with long arms :) Make certain ALL power is off before you move the A/C - D/C panel!!!! Shorepower & 12 volt - it is easy to short cables on the back!

But if you plan to pull new cables - I would take off the front of the top panel with stereo - that is where the cables are running to main TV. So if you want to pull 12 volt cables - then that is what I would do. To get the panel off - unscrew the cabinet door hinges from the inside of the cabinet - and i had to loosen 1 screw for the cabinet lock to get the panel out.

I have actually moved my panels around so the Kohler display is above the A/C-D/C panel - so it is more readable. But that requires a bit of cutting. :)
 
Mike I've got the same leak, I assumed it was from damage from Sandy. It could be from the overhead skylight and if it is it'll probably need to be Rebedded!
Marshall
 
Kaz.... you are the man! Wow..... I'm lucky I caught you with your "doors down". : ) This really really really helps.

All the best,
Mike
 
Bugsy24 said:
Mike I've got the same leak, I assumed it was from damage from Sandy. It could be from the overhead skylight and if it is it'll probably need to be Rebedded!
Marshall
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Marshall,

I started working on this and I notice that the water was dripping and running down the seam between the two overhead panels. The water originated (luckily) over the DC light in the galley. The drip was through a screw used to hold down the windshield bottom. (Those aren't supposed to go all the way through the fiberglass, at least I thought). I was lucky that I saw some water in the light cover. It then travelled along the seam to the vinyl molding that runs along with the curtain rail. That vinyl molding seemed to collect the water (served as a basin) and it ran/dripped out of the screw next to the forward galley cabinets along with the portion where the seam meets the vinyl molding. I removed the galley DC light, 5100'ed the screw and reset from above, and even "painted" 5100 on the hole from below. I caulked the small forward deck windows from above and will probably even caulk the sun pad rails just-in-case. I'm not sure if this will help you, but thought I would post and give it a try. I'll keep you posted if I dry up.

All the best,
Mike
 
Another quick question! How do I play music in the cockpit without having it play in the cabin? I have the premium stereo upgrade and the fader function (forward/back) doesn't work on the clarion control! Obviously I can turn off the music in the cockpit, but it always plays in the cabin. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,
Mike
Mike
 
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