420/44 DB Owners Club

Hampton said:
Fresh water, not hot water. I can find that one.
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Oh, that one is under stbd side berth guest stateroom.

Here is the pic:
Fresh_Water_Tank.jpg
 
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That is port of the centerline. That is why I tend to list more to Starboard when it's empty. That's what got my attention the other day. Thank you.
 
Hampton said:
That is port of the centerline. That is why I tend to list more to Starboard when it's empty. That's what got my attention the other day. Thank you.
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Oh yeah, when it's empty you're looking at about 1000LBs difference. The good thing is that it's very close to the center line. It's a very rare when mine is empty (I don't connect city water and always use the on board water), but I do remember that there were few occasions when I noticed minor list.
 
Hampton said:
That is port of the centerline. That is why I tend to list more to Starboard when it's empty. That's what got my attention the other day. Thank you.
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John, I normally have a slight list to starboard as well. With a full water tank the list goes away, however, I rarely carry water underway as I typically head to transient marinas with city water.
 
bmac said:
John, I normally have a slight list to starboard as well. With a full water tank the list goes away, however, I rarely carry water underway as I typically head to transient marinas with city water.
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Yes, I've been aware of the list for almost 2 years. I try to stow all of the heavy stuff to port, and when not filling up, I keep more fuel in the port tank. I was a little shocked the other day, actually, when the boat was listing to port. My wife thought I may have put too much fuel to port, when actually, we had just filled the water tank all the way up (at the dock for a couple of months now, in St Pete). That was my first indication that the water tank was to port. Previously, I assumed it was centered.
 
John,

I think that we can't complaint too much about the placement if the WT, b/c on 400DB SR managed to place it ALL THE WAY to the stern, if I recall behind the generator. The moment I saw this I said to my self that this is a big time stern heavy boat, which affects performance. Imagine adding swim platform like yours and center console dinghy. She might not get on plane at all. So, having compare the two I can't complain about our WT placement.
 
No, me neither. Not complaining. It is pretty close to centerline, and forward of the cg if anything.
 
The 44DB has a known list to starboard. On my former boat ('07 44DB) it was "cured" by SR by adding 400 pounds of lead in under the outboard single berth. Nice.
 
Re: 420 DB Owners Club

Hi guys,

Does anyone know the depth of the swim platform on the 420/44DB?

Thanks in advance,

- Port
 
Re: 420 DB Owners Club

HomePort said:
Hi guys,

Does anyone know the depth of the swim platform on the 420/44DB?

Thanks in advance,

- Port
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Sitting on board now. Depth meaning stern to the locker, or vertically? If vertically, at what point (s).

35" at the center, from the stern to the base of the transom locker. 13' wide at the widest point. 16" tall at the back corner.
 
Re: 420 DB Owners Club

John,

First of all, thank you. That's just what I was looking for. So... 35" from the bottom of the transom to the stern.

Second of all, I'm jealous and ridiculously envious that you're on your boat right now. What I'm doing in the North East, I have no idea.

Port
 
Well, we live aboard during this time of year. We are in St Pete for a couple of months. It's a neat arrangement. It works since I commute to work anyway.
 
HomePort said:
Hi all,

Anyone with a 420/44DB use a Hurley Davit? If so, how's it working for you?

Thank you in advance for your generosity and strong opinions.

- Port
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Yes; purchased one in 2006 with my boat and installed it myself. Works as advertised. You can get access to the bottom of the swim platform from inside the bilge behind the genset. I think I spent more time measuring the exact centered position and laying out the drill holes than anything else during the install. The fiberglass swim platform has 3/4" marine plywood underneath and there is a three inch layer of insulation under the plywood. When I drilled my pilot holes I placed a long phillips screw driver in the hole then located it from inside the bilge underneath. I cleared away the insulation around the screw driver and was good to go. You need two people to fastern the mount bolts. One on the swim plarform holding the bolt and one underneath tightening the lock nuts. You might want to consider adding the extension mounts to provide more clearance between the dinghy and the transom. I added two stainless steel D rings on both ends of the swim platform and use tie down straps to keep the dinghy in place when underway. After five seasons I needed to remove some rust and repaint the entire rack. Not sure this can be avoided in a salt water environment. I am still happy with it.
 
I had the Hurley-o-matic davits too. I found that if you use a 4:1 block and tackle slung from a stanchion on the flying bridge and attached to a three point harness to the dinghy that getting the dinghy onto the boat was much easier. I affectionately referred to that rig as "Miss Michigan".

Also, in my experience, you do not need to add D-rings. I'm sure they work fine, and It's certainly not a mistake, but I wanted as few holes as possible in the swim platform. The outboard aft cleats (not the ones low on the swim platform, but the other ones higher up on either side of the boat) served the purpose of securing the dinghy quite well without the added holes.
 
FWIW the upper aft cleats would not work in my application. I needed to keep downward fore and aft tension on my dinghy to keep it from getting airborne in rough weather. With only upper cleat tension the tie down lines would draw the dinghy close to the transom and would not prevent upward (heave) movment since the cleats were higher than the dinghy. Also, drawing the dinghly close to the transom eliminates any walkway room to get access to the transom trunk hatch.

The two stainelss D rings installed on each side of the platform line up with the bow and stern of the dinghy tie down rings. I use ratcheted tie downs and this works great for keeping the dinghy secure on the Hurley. With extended Hurley davit mounts, this arrangement also provides about 12" of clearance to walk on the swim platform between the dinghy and the transom. I tailored my Hurley mounts to the beam of my dinghy so I could have this walkway clearance.

Drilling holes in the side of the swim platform through the gel coat and plywood underneath was not an issue for me. I got a good strong bite into the marine plywood with the three stainless screws on each D ring. Similar to the Hurley davit mounts, the D ring mount holes are protected with 5200 sealant.
 
Proud Warrior- Makes sense. I had my dinghy tucked all the way in by the transom, and the aft line on the dinghy was on the outer top side of the dinghy so it served to hold the dinghy down. Hard to explain... wish I had pics.
 
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Hey guys,

I'm looking to get a center console dinghy about 10.5'-11' Yachtline series. Most of them weight around 400-500LBs dry. After adding 40HP motor, all rigging with gear and fuel the total weight of fully loaded dinghy gets to 850LBs. I can possibly get away with 30HP motor, but it's only about 45-50LBs lighter from 40HP.

Does any have YL or similar dinghy on a lift on your 420/44DB? What's your experience, do you have any issues and/or concerns?
 
Alex F said:
Does any have YL or similar dinghy on a lift on your 420/44DB? What's your experience, do you have any issues and/or concerns?
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A buddy of mine runs with his 800# YachtLine with a 30HP engine (or a 4 cycle Sea Doo depending on the mood) on his Florida Bow Thrusters lift on a 400DB with no issues at all. Other than that the exhaust blow-bys splash a bit at low speeds because they are semi-submerged.
 
That's great to hear. Thanks Tim.
 
I have experienced the same problem. Can you forward me the name of your Cummins tech people up there. My guy down here can find no such service bulletin. Thank you in advance.
 
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