Thanks Todd for the info. Will check those connections.
The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread
- Thread starter Nehalennia
- Start date
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
Best of luck. I hope you find it.
Westie
Active Member
- Oct 16, 2008
- 1,109
- Boat Info
- 2001 260 Sundancer towed with the power of an IFORCE V8
- Engines
- 7.4 L Bravo III
Last weekend I had the boat out for the first time after installing a GFS-10 fuel flow sensor and connecting it up to the GPS. It was only on the local lake so not really sure it counts as having the boat out.
Anyways I found some interesting things out about the sweet spot for the boat.
At 3400 RPM and the drive trimmed to just under the 1/4 mark on the gauge I was getting 1.1 liters per Km.
If I increased the RPM to 3600 the fuel consumption went up to 1.3 liters per Km.
If I dropped the RPM to 3200 the fuel consumption again went up to 1.3 liters per Km
So for my boat and engine if I cruise at 3400 RPM I'm getting about a 18% reduction in fuel use compared to 3200 or 3600 RPM.
Last year I was cruising at 3600 the whole time, about 900 KM worth in three weeks. Based on this I'll easily pay for the cost of the GFS-10 on my first trip.
At 3400 RMP I was doing about 44 KM/hr.
This is with the 7.4 and 24 pitch props at an elevation of 1190 meters.
It will be interesting to see what it will be when I am on the coast again this summer for 3 weeks.
Anyways I found some interesting things out about the sweet spot for the boat.
At 3400 RPM and the drive trimmed to just under the 1/4 mark on the gauge I was getting 1.1 liters per Km.
If I increased the RPM to 3600 the fuel consumption went up to 1.3 liters per Km.
If I dropped the RPM to 3200 the fuel consumption again went up to 1.3 liters per Km
So for my boat and engine if I cruise at 3400 RPM I'm getting about a 18% reduction in fuel use compared to 3200 or 3600 RPM.
Last year I was cruising at 3600 the whole time, about 900 KM worth in three weeks. Based on this I'll easily pay for the cost of the GFS-10 on my first trip.
At 3400 RMP I was doing about 44 KM/hr.
This is with the 7.4 and 24 pitch props at an elevation of 1190 meters.
It will be interesting to see what it will be when I am on the coast again this summer for 3 weeks.
Update...did another computer scan and found two issues. The drive fluid and the knock sensor. The drive fluid most likely because I shorted the two wires to see what the alarm sounded like. The mechanic tested the knock sensor and he says it was operating correctly. So the good news is there doesn't seem to be anything serious here and will just see how it goes. You think adding gas additives will help with the pinging if that is actually what it was? I had the tank filled at the beginning of the season by the people who dropped it in for me. Maybe they got bad gas. Who knows. I guess wait and see.
Well, it could be bad gas. In that case, you'd want to add some octane boost. Always use something like Startron, by the way... religiously.
If that doesn't help, I'd take another look at replacing the knock sensor. Although, if it was me, I'd probably just replace that right away.
Another possibility is carbon deposits. Over time, fuel additive should help with that - so will using the boat more and letting the engine run like she wants to.
What do the plugs look like? Pull a couple from each side.
If that doesn't help, I'd take another look at replacing the knock sensor. Although, if it was me, I'd probably just replace that right away.
Another possibility is carbon deposits. Over time, fuel additive should help with that - so will using the boat more and letting the engine run like she wants to.
What do the plugs look like? Pull a couple from each side.
Hey Dennis,
i'll get some octane boost and dump it in. Already have the startron but haven't yet added it so thanks for reminding me. I just had all the plugs, wires, cap etc replaced. Have to say the old ones were pretty bad.
i'll get some octane boost and dump it in. Already have the startron but haven't yet added it so thanks for reminding me. I just had all the plugs, wires, cap etc replaced. Have to say the old ones were pretty bad.
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
Westie, that's interesting. I'm a 5.7 and also cruise at 34-3500.
Ron, I agree with Dennis. It may be worth it to replace now. I haven't had to use octane boost for a long time but always liked Bardahl.
Ron, I agree with Dennis. It may be worth it to replace now. I haven't had to use octane boost for a long time but always liked Bardahl.
rabyers1
Member
Guys - My Temp guage stopped working. The needle is stuck at just under 170 degrees. Disconnected it and removed it and needle stays right there. Before removing it - I jumped across the S and G posts and needle pegged past 220. When I removed the jump, it dropped back back to the same 170 degree position. With the boat running, the needle does move up to the normal position of about 175 degrees. My thinking is that the guage is shot. If so, does anyone know where to get a replacement? It is the Teleflex 86610F that I beleive was used on all 260 DAs from 1999 to at least 2002.
Also, when testing the guage, I pulled a knucklehead move and shorted my ignition (purple) wire post on the guage to ground. This stalled the engine and now I have a no crank condition. Is it probable that I blew the fuse or circuit breaker located in the ECM? I have the 383 Mag Stroker (circa 2009).
Also, when testing the guage, I pulled a knucklehead move and shorted my ignition (purple) wire post on the guage to ground. This stalled the engine and now I have a no crank condition. Is it probable that I blew the fuse or circuit breaker located in the ECM? I have the 383 Mag Stroker (circa 2009).
Hey Dennis,
have taken the boat out about 4 or 5 times with no alarms. The last time I went out it alarmed again. I opened the engine hatch and saw my drive fluid spitting out the top of the lube bottle cap. Had the alarms read on the computer and it said that I got a knock sensor alarm again and low oil pressure. The oil pressure gauge read 40 the entire time so was normal. So you were right I should have just changed the knock sensor. I assume the oil pressure sensor is faulty since the gauge was reading ok. My mechanic doesn't seem too worried about the alarms. The issue with the lube bottle does worry me and the mechanic though as it could be the drive is running too hot or there are other issues with the drive. Doesnt look like there is water or other stuff in the drive fluid bottle but i guess you would have to drain the fluid from the drive to see for sure. Any thoughts you or anyone else has on any of this is appreciated. I didn't yet check the battery connections like Todd suggested and will try to remember to do that. The boat seems to run great otherwise.
rabyers1
Member
Well, I fixed my "no-start problem - was the 20 amp fuse on the power supply wire to the ignition. However, I still have not been able to locate an exact replacement for the teleflex 86610F water temperature gauge that stopped functioning. Anyone have any ideas where to source an easy replacement?
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
Good - glad to see you're on the right track.
No - I wouldn't be worried about the oil pressure, either. BUT, I would double check that the oil filter gets good and warm in a short time. Just put your hand on it. Between the oil pressure audible alarm, the oil pressure gauge and feeling the filter... you've got three ways to check that you have oil going through.
Drive lube: It's not filled up too high, is it? The drive lube does expand somewhat as it get warm. When cold, it should be about an inch below the top of the bottle. Otherwise, yes, pull the lower drain screw (be ready to put your finger over the hole). Let a few ounces drain into a white container and also look at the magnet on the screw. A small amount of shavings is normal.
If you're no longer getting an audible alarm, clear the codes and see if it comes back. The oil pressure sensor can sound the alarm if a piece of dirt gets on it.
Do you happen to have the Sea Ray part number handy (I don't)? It's a long shot (actually, I REALLY long one!), but I can check to see if Sea Ray still has any in stock.
No the fluid level was slightly above the fill line. By the time I got back to the dock it was just at or slightly below the fill line. I bought a new bottle cap because I read on another forum someone having the same problem as this and after they changed out caps it stopped spitting out the top. I don't think that is the issue but thought it was worth a try for 15 bucks. The rubber washer in the old cap did look funky and you really had to crank it down to get it tight. The new one seemed to be better in that regard. Haven't tried going out with it yet to see if it makes a difference.
You gave me another good tip with the oil filter. I'll check that out. On draining the drive fluid..... unfortunately I don't have a trailer so would have to get it hauled. Was trying to avoid that mostly because of the time out of the water but I guess if it still continues I'll have to bite the bullet. what could cause this excess pressure in the drive to the point where it is at the top of the bottle and spitting out the cap? I have read that some of the bravo 3s run excessively hot and there are different things that people have tried but none seemed successful.
You gave me another good tip with the oil filter. I'll check that out. On draining the drive fluid..... unfortunately I don't have a trailer so would have to get it hauled. Was trying to avoid that mostly because of the time out of the water but I guess if it still continues I'll have to bite the bullet. what could cause this excess pressure in the drive to the point where it is at the top of the bottle and spitting out the cap? I have read that some of the bravo 3s run excessively hot and there are different things that people have tried but none seemed successful.
Well, sometimes long shots pay off. As of right now, there are 17 in stock! About $47. Any Sea Ray dealer can get it for you.
Usually, but not always, if the drive is running hot you will see a whitish residue (minerals in the water, I think) on the drive - pretty much just on the upper part. Mine does not exhibit either the whitish residue (sometimes a little, but nothing I'm worried about) nor does the fluid spit out - we have identical boats and I run in similar water to you when I'm up in Maine. If you do seem to be running hot, a drive shower would likely be a good, inexpensive (relatively speaking, of course) solution.
I'll look for the white spots. I do remember seeing some of those when i was in the process of buying the boat last year. Not excessive though and mostly on the lower partand on the props.
Where in Maine do you go? Funny you mentioned that as I just got back from Portland. Not with my boat unfortunately but was a great trip. I would like to retire in southern Maine near the coast.
The parts that get hot would be those that are out of the water and away from any splashing. Those parts that are in the water are being cooled - hence the benefits of the drive shower as it sprays the upper gearcase with a constant supply of water. It also won't really look like "spots" - it'll be an overall "discoloration" that you can usually scrape away with your fingernail - kind of looks like what old, faded, oxidized gelcoat looks like. Without seeing the spots you're referencing, it's hard to say what they are - but sounds like leftover "glue" from barnacles.
We have properties on the mainland in Friendship/Cushing (just a little lobstering town) and on Friendship Long Island - they're in Muscongus Bay. Started with my grandmother when she was just a little girl (she's 90, now). Coastal areas up there are so beautiful.
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