300 Sundancer questions.

sundancermiami said:
Hi guys need some help going to repower my 300 with more hp i want a cruising speed of 40 and top end of 50+ will the 383 350hp from mercruiser do it ??? with what props ?? any wot for the 6.2 ??? would i need 496 ??
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sell the boat and buy what you want - this hull will never be a go fast - there may be a couple people on this board with the 6.2s, but I doubt they go anywhere close to 50+mph......forget about 8.1s the small blocks almost touch one another - you could add superchargers (powerdyne, paxton, etc) but you open a whole other can of worms with longevity, reliability, and fuel quality with the level of boost you would need.......did I mention just sell it and buy somthing that will do what you want it to right out of the box......
 
if i didn't want the boat i wouldn't be wasting the time,money or effort, as for the big blocks already found out they will be too tight, my boat can top out at 42 with 2 on board 1/2 tanks of fuel , but can't go anywhere near that with 6 onboard then ill cruise it at 30 and top out at 37 ,but as another 300 da owner showed me with 350 cid 300hp 48 is wot so if I'm adding 50hp per side 50mph shouldn't be a far stretch with good props !!!! and its not that i need the speed constantly but it would be nice to do it on a rare flat day I'm more interested in quick planning and 40 or so cruising !!!
Ididntdoit said:
sell the boat and buy what you want - this hull will never be a go fast - there may be a couple people on this board with the 6.2s, but I doubt they go anywhere close to 50+mph......forget about 8.1s the small blocks almost touch one another - you could add superchargers (powerdyne, paxton, etc) but you open a whole other can of worms with longevity, reliability, and fuel quality with the level of boost you would need.......did I mention just sell it and buy somthing that will do what you want it to right out of the box......
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Hello Everyone,

Well, I've got an issue with the companionway stairs. This weekend I went to climb out of the cabin up the stairs and into the cockpit and noticed the bottom step moved slightly. After inspecting the step, I noticed there were cracks along the welds connecting the support struts for the step to the cylindrical spine. So, I figured I would remove the steps and have someone weld the cracks. The bottom of the steps are attached with 4 screws. The top portion of the steps are hidden behind the vinyl interior trim panels.

Has anyone removed these trim panels before? I noticed the are some plastic caps that are perhaps concealing some fasteners. But, it appears these caps are glued or somehow otherwise permanently attached.

Any help/advice on how to remove these vinyl interior panels would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
Hi All,
Sorry for the dumb question, but upon pulling into the slip late Monday night I noticed my green bow nav light was out. Didnt have time to pull it to find out what kind of bulb is in there. If someone has that bulb number or type handy, that would save me a 45 min drive each way to/from the boat on Thrusday to find out.

Thanks
James
 
JimFromMD said:
Hi All,
Sorry for the dumb question, but upon pulling into the slip late Monday night I noticed my green bow nav light was out. Didnt have time to pull it to find out what kind of bulb is in there. If someone has that bulb number or type handy, that would save me a 45 min drive each way to/from the boat on Thrusday to find out.

Thanks
James
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According to my manuals its a 10W bayonet bulb. GE part number 2641L, product code 38793. Should be able to get one at auto parts store. See page ten of this: http://www.azcompany.ru/upload/pdf/28/ge_lamp_automobile.pdf
 
:smt100Hi, can anyone help me with some measurements...

I'm going to order some new name stickers for the back of the boat..

But I have left my measurements at the boat..

I need to know the width and height of the door to the compartment for shore power and so on..

Thanks for helping!!

Jenzemann! searay.jpg
 
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sundancermiami said:
if i didn't want the boat i wouldn't be wasting the time,money or effort, as for the big blocks already found out they will be too tight, my boat can top out at 42 with 2 on board 1/2 tanks of fuel , but can't go anywhere near that with 6 onboard then ill cruise it at 30 and top out at 37 ,but as another 300 da owner showed me with 350 cid 300hp 48 is wot so if I'm adding 50hp per side 50mph shouldn't be a far stretch with good props !!!! and its not that i need the speed constantly but it would be nice to do it on a rare flat day I'm more interested in quick planning and 40 or so cruising !!!
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Fastest WOT I've seen on my boat was 48.1 MPH but that was when boat was new. Now it's closer to 45. I would think the 6.2's should get it close to 50.
 
Hi there. The hatch cover over the forward bed has a both a screen or a blackout shade. The screen on mine has gotten all tangled up and needs replacement. The entire unit is an expensive part, $462 according to Marine Max parts. Has anyone any experience just changing the screening? Is it an easy job? Where do you get the replacement screening and what are the steps to replace it?

Thanks,
Jason
 
The product is made by Oceanair. If you search on here you should find their contact info. They should also be able to tell you if you can change just the screen. I know folks have changed the latches and it was pretty easy.

-James.
 
Recently purchased a 94 300 sundancer. Was told the water tank leaked as it was always wet around the area in aft abin. Pulled the tank and cannot find any leaks. This has obviously leaked for awhile. Fittings seemed ok too, but was no way to check those as it was already wet. Any other ideas? Does dockside water run thru the tank and pressurize it? Thanks
 
Jamckin:
Perfect timing. I have the same boat and HAD the same exact problem. I actually fixed it this weekend. What I did was drain the tank, then removed it. You will have to remove the two hoses with hose clmaps (fill & vent) and also the hose atthe 90° elbow. The Cut the wires for the for the level indicator. Make sure your batteries are off when you do this. I adeed discoonect inststead of butt splices in case the tank has to com out. Next remove the 3 1x1 pieces that are above the tank. Take the tank out. I had midlow growing under them take. Cleaned it with bleack and Water then shop vac'd the remaning water out. One warning... the old water stunk like S^&T.

I removed the elbow, reapplied teflon tape to both side of it. Tightend it up and then siliconed all around the connection ot the tank.

So far so good.

Let me know if you have any questions.
 
I had tank out and tried to reinstall today. As I was filling I noticed a tiny leak where the grey hose attached to the fitting. So I went to west marine and thought I had a fitting that would work but the threads were different. Looks like Searay used a household type fitting. So I will try a hardware store tommorrow. What a coincidence! Thanks!
 
Have any of you 2002-2007 owners pulled your Crusair a/c unit out of the v-berth? I am worried about my rusting pan and I want to replace or coat it (condensate that runs to shower sump is nice and orange)? Are there any particular tricks to getting the unit out?
 
ZZ13 said:
Have any of you 2002-2007 owners pulled your Crusair a/c unit out of the v-berth? I am worried about my rusting pan and I want to replace or coat it (condensate that runs to shower sump is nice and orange)? Are there any particular tricks to getting the unit out?
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Just had a long conversation with the guy that is fixing my controller circuitry on my generator. His business is servicing/repairing all the cabin systems on these boats. He said not to bother with the rusting pan, that its so thick that I'll need a new Cruisair before the pan rusts through.
 
Anyone removed/reseated the stern most handrail points on a 93 300DA?
 
Well, to my surprise, Sea Ray is going to replace the steps free of charge. Nice to see they are standing behind their product. Kudos Sea Ray!
 
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