Official 280 Sundancer Thread

I have a set of lights bolted to my trim tabs. The AFT ACC is the one used to turn them on. If I get a chance here soon, I'll take some pics since the boat is on the trailer out by the barn.

I do like them, they light up the water under the swim platform well, but it's just a white light.


Tom
 
Thank you so much !! The Hurley marine is what I was looking for. Does anyone have any experience good or bad with these lights ?? This Forum is the best with the most helpful people !! Thanks for everyone's input it is much appericated !!!!
 
Well shortly after beginning my galley floor replacement project, I bumped into a slight hiccup in the action. The rug came out easily enough, but the fiberglass floor , under it, is not flat. I do not want to create a dust cloud by grinding it flat, so I am looking for suggestions for a floor leveler, that will be compatible with the glass and the adhesive I'm glueing the floor down with.
 
scoflaw said:
Well shortly after beginning my galley floor replacement project, I bumped into a slight hiccup in the action. The rug came out easily enough, but the fiberglass floor , under it, is not flat. I do not want to create a dust cloud by grinding it flat, so I am looking for suggestions for a floor leveler, that will be compatible with the glass and the adhesive I'm glueing the floor down with.
Click to expand...

Could you glue down some kind of thin underlayment like luan?

Sent from my BlackBerry 9930 using Tapatalk
 
scoflaw said:
Well shortly after beginning my galley floor replacement project, I bumped into a slight hiccup in the action. The rug came out easily enough, but the fiberglass floor , under it, is not flat. I do not want to create a dust cloud by grinding it flat, so I am looking for suggestions for a floor leveler, that will be compatible with the glass and the adhesive I'm glueing the floor down with.
Click to expand...

Make sure you take some pictures for us. One of these winters I'm going to do the same.
 
jason78 said:
Could you glue down some kind of thin underlayment like luan?
Click to expand...

Good idea. Or, use a random orbit sander with dust port hooked to a shop vac. Or, epoxy poured onto floor? Could be expensive and possibly messy. Gluing down a subfloor is probably the way to go...maybe even coated In epoxy to waterproof it from rot.

Tom
 
What color is the fiberglass under the carpet? Is it grey? As I understand it the grey stuff is a gelcoat containing wax. Gluing anything to it can be difficult. I know epoxy does not do well, I keep having to re-glue my documentation number sign. Get or borrow a good sander with a dust port that can be hooked up to a vac and handle it that way.

Henry
 
Galley Floor

50 percent of the floor is red fiberglass [translucent], and the rest is white. The white area looks to be sprayed on with some evidence of it being brushed on as well. I will do some testing for adhesion. Thanks
 
I want to perform some basic maintenance on my vacuflush system this off-season...install new duck bills, etc. My bowl was also leaking water; meaning after awhile the water that was in the bowl was gone.

I found a nice writeup on replacing the duck bill valves here: http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/30700-How-to-replace-duckbills-on-a-380-vacuflush . Does anyone know what part #'s or kit #'s or model #, etc. I need for a 280DA to perform this maintenance?
 
Gunn said:
I want to perform some basic maintenance on my vacuflush system this off-season...install new duck bills, etc. My bowl was also leaking water; meaning after awhile the water that was in the bowl was gone.

I found a nice writeup on replacing the duck bill valves here: http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/30700-How-to-replace-duckbills-on-a-380-vacuflush . Does anyone know what part #'s or kit #'s or model #, etc. I need for a 280DA to perform this maintenance?
Click to expand...
Not sure about part #'s Gunn, I just called local searay dealer and got them. the duckbills took maybe 45 minutes to change and the vacuflush seal and valve kit (seemed like around 80-100 bucks) took around an hour to change. Both jobs were quite easy to accomplish.
 
susanandlance said:
Not sure about part #'s Gunn, I just called local searay dealer and got them. the duckbills took maybe 45 minutes to change and the vacuflush seal and valve kit (seemed like around 80-100 bucks) took around an hour to change. Both jobs were quite easy to accomplish.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I found them:

Part # 385310076 : Duckbill Valves : $24.99, http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|299222|315197&id=827060
Part # 385316140: Toilet Seals Kit : $38.85, http://www.amazon.com/Sealand-385316140-Teflon-Rubber-Seal/dp/B001HC4VA0

The owners manual mentions that all I may have to do is clean the seal well and that may help it seal again. I may try that first.

Tom
 
Ok, on to my next item on the TODO list! (You can tell spring fever is starting to make me itch).

Has anyone ever replaced their fuel sending unit? Mine is inoperative some of the time (displays well below E even when actually full) and when it does work, it's inaccurate at best. Does anyone know the size I need? When ordering, they need a length measurement.

I wanted to replace it before the boat splashed, but I'm afraid I can't because I filled the tank at the end of the season. I'm thinking if I really did fill it, then removing the sending unit (under the aft berth compartment) would be a bad idea. So I will wait to replace it until I've burned a couple hours of fuel. But I would like to order it and have it on-hand when I do the swap out.

Thanks,

Tom
 
I'm considering a trailer for our 280 (purchased without). Any opinions on channel vs. tube frame construction (for painted steel)? BTW, we do freshwater boating, no trips to salt water. Trailer will be used twice yearly, haul in/haul out.
 
Sundance280 said:
I'm considering a trailer for our 280 (purchased without). Any opinions on channel vs. tube frame construction (for painted steel)? BTW, we do freshwater boating, no trips to salt water. Trailer will be used twice yearly, haul in/haul out.
Click to expand...

I had a trailer made for my 2001 280 by LoadMaster and they are awesome to deal with! Give them a shout. I couldn't more strongly recommend a company.
 
Gunn said:
Thanks, I found them:

Part # 385310076 : Duckbill Valves : $24.99, http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|299222|315197&id=827060
Part # 385316140: Toilet Seals Kit : $38.85, http://www.amazon.com/Sealand-385316140-Teflon-Rubber-Seal/dp/B001HC4VA0

The owners manual mentions that all I may have to do is clean the seal well and that may help it seal again. I may try that first.

Tom
Click to expand...
I would just replace the seals Gunn, and if you get the seal kit it comes w/a new ball valve and spring also. What I find is the ball valve is plastic and it gets scored also, you have it all apart anyway, replace the seals and valve, JMHO.:grin:
 
Gunn said:
Thanks, I found them:

Part # 385310076 : Duckbill Valves : $24.99, http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|299222|315197&id=827060
Part # 385316140: Toilet Seals Kit : $38.85, http://www.amazon.com/Sealand-385316140-Teflon-Rubber-Seal/dp/B001HC4VA0

The owners manual mentions that all I may have to do is clean the seal well and that may help it seal again. I may try that first.

Tom
Click to expand...

Tom

You need two packages of duckbills. There are two valves on the inlet side, and two on the outlet side. Why they don't sell them in a four pack is beyond me. And while you are in stink heaven you might as well replace the charcoal filter on the top of the holding tank. You can buy a complete new filter, or make / re-cycle the old one. There is a great thread on here someplace that covers the process of re-manufacturing a holding tank filter.

Henry
 
Thanks guys, I will probably just replace the seals and do it right so no worries during the season.

And yes I think it was Presentation that posted the Howto on the filter, thanks for the reminder!

Tom
 
This is something I need to do, too. Especially now that the holding tank has been empty and the head unused for a few months. thanks for the info.
 
Gunn said:
Ok, on to my next item on the TODO list! (You can tell spring fever is starting to make me itch).

Has anyone ever replaced their fuel sending unit? Mine is inoperative some of the time (displays well below E even when actually full) and when it does work, it's inaccurate at best. Does anyone know the size I need? When ordering, they need a length measurement.

I wanted to replace it before the boat splashed, but I'm afraid I can't because I filled the tank at the end of the season. I'm thinking if I really did fill it, then removing the sending unit (under the aft berth compartment) would be a bad idea. So I will wait to replace it until I've burned a couple hours of fuel. But I would like to order it and have it on-hand when I do the swap out.

Thanks,

Tom
Click to expand...
See posts #743 and #744 in the 300DA Questions forum. Some good info on replacing with more accurate Royce senders
 
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