Wood question

H

Hoof Arted

New Member
Dec 14, 2011
19
Knoxville, TN
Boat Info
1975 SRV240, yellow and BIG (for me)
Engines
Ford 302-233 horsepower
ok, my 1975 SRV 240 has a few "rotting wood" problems. I have gotten all of the rotted wood removed (Very carefully) and laid out in my garage so I can trace the pieces onto some new wood and replace them......I done GOOOOOOOOD on this aspect of the project, now I can't find any "Marine grade" lumber locally. What can I use, pine, oak, cedar, etc to make my repairs.

I was told by an older guy at Home Depot I could use pine, but I need to use Thompson's deck sealer before and after I install the parts.

Mainly, I need about 6 feet of 2x2 a 24x12 piece of 1/2" plywood to make all of my repairs...

Would I be better off using some aluminum angle instead of the 2x2's?:smt100

Suggestions???????
 
Hoof Arted said:
ok, my 1975 SRV 240 has a few "rotting wood" problems. I have gotten all of the rotted wood removed (Very carefully) and laid out in my garage so I can trace the pieces onto some new wood and replace them......I done GOOOOOOOOD on this aspect of the project, now I can't find any "Marine grade" lumber locally. What can I use, pine, oak, cedar, etc to make my repairs.

I was told by an older guy at Home Depot I could use pine, but I need to use Thompson's deck sealer before and after I install the parts.

Mainly, I need about 6 feet of 2x2 a 24x12 piece of 1/2" plywood to make all of my repairs...

Would I be better off using some aluminum angle instead of the 2x2's?:smt100

Suggestions???????
Click to expand...

I'm not a boat restoration expert, but that advice seems bad. When I had a rotted floor panel over the gas tank I used pressure treated plywood and coated it with epoxy from West Systems. It is available at West Marine and was easy to do, and wow, is it strong. MM

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/
 
MonacoMike said:
I'm not a boat restoration expert, but that advice seems bad. When I had a rotted floor panel over the gas tank I used pressure treated plywood and coated it with epoxy from West Systems. It is available at West Marine and was easy to do, and wow, is it strong. MM

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/
Click to expand...


Thanks for the info! I am VERY new to the boating scene and didn't think his answer was right but I wasn't sure.........

I will see if I can find some pressure treated 2x2's at the local Home Depot and Lowe's....
 
Wait..............

Don't use regular pressure treated wood in any boat project. Pressure treating pumps the wood full of liquid preservatives and chemicals so you end up with saturated wood with a very high moisture content. When you cut and fit the pieces your repair, they will fit the day you install them, but that will shrink by up to 20% in length and width as the wood dries out. That will leave gaps around the pressure treated wood and cause general weakness in the repair. Besides shrinkage, you will have some difficulty getting resin or epoxy to adhere to fresh...(from Home Depot or Lowes)...pressure treated lumber. My other issue with regular pressure treated wood is that it is usually #3 quality lumber to begin with. You should be looking for #1 grade wood if you are going to repair a boat.

There are some specialty lumber retailers that stock kiln dried pressure treaded lumber. It is very expensive and will need to be sawed straight on one edge to begin, but it won't shrink an appreciable amount. ANother approach is to use marine grade or exterior grade (13 ply) mahogany cabinet quality plywood.
 
fwebster said:
Wait..............

Don't use regular pressure treated wood in any boat project. Pressure treating pumps the wood full of liquid preservatives and chemicals so you end up with saturated wood with a very high moisture content. When you cut and fit the pieces your repair, they will fit the day you install them, but that will shrink by up to 20% in length and width as the wood dries out. That will leave gaps around the pressure treated wood and cause general weakness in the repair. Besides shrinkage, you will have some difficulty getting resin or epoxy to adhere to fresh...(from Home Depot or Lowes)...pressure treated lumber. My other issue with regular pressure treated wood is that it is usually #3 quality lumber to begin with. You should be looking for #1 grade wood if you are going to repair a boat.

There are some specialty lumber retailers that stock kiln dried pressure treaded lumber. It is very expensive and will need to be sawed straight on one edge to begin, but it won't shrink an appreciable amount. ANother approach is to use marine grade or exterior grade (13 ply) mahogany cabinet quality plywood.
Click to expand...

Guess we have now established for sure that I'm NOT a "boat restoration expert", I just knew the HD advice was wrong. Thanks Frank. ...And to the OP, since you are new around here, Frank IS the expert. MM
 
I too am no wood expert but there is grade of maple that will resist rot. There was an old gentalman at our marina that new wood. Teak was his favorate but it go so expensive he was using a maple that he said was almost as good as teak. Cedar rots slower than most woods but when moisture sits on it, it will rot. No idea where you can get advice on woods. Putting the wrong stuff would be bad after all the work you have done.
 
1. Are your dimensions all inches?
2. Is the 2 x 2 an actual 2 inches by 2 inches, or a piece of wood that is sold as a "2x2" but 1 3/4 x 1 3/4"?

You can get marine lumber from Boulter Plywood (boulterplywood.com). They also sell marine plywood in partial sheets, as well as providing a cutting service. They are located in Somerville MA and will ship UPS. The lumber is sold only partially machined, so you will need to buy over size and either plane it down, or mill it on a table saw with a very good blade.

Henry
 
Henry Boyd said:
1. Are your dimensions all inches?
2. Is the 2 x 2 an actual 2 inches by 2 inches, or a piece of wood that is sold as a "2x2" but 1 3/4 x 1 3/4"?

You can get marine lumber from Boulter Plywood (boulterplywood.com). They also sell marine plywood in partial sheets, as well as providing a cutting service. They are located in Somerville MA and will ship UPS. The lumber is sold only partially machined, so you will need to buy over size and either plane it down, or mill it on a table saw with a very good blade.

Henry
Click to expand...

Yes, the dimensions are 2"x2" or close to it.... All this is for is the motor "cover" and some pieces that go along the top of the transom area that hold up the "coolers" mounted to the transom wall. Sorry if I have miss named the area..... Again, still very wet behind the ears when it comes to boats.
 
Pressure treated from the big box stores can bleed through vinyl and discolor it badly. Forget about gluing down any floor covering to it, the mastic won't hold.I used marine grade plywood and coated it with a good layer of enamel paint before attaching the vinyl. You can epoxy it but if you are using stainless steel staples to attach vinyl then it may be a bit hard to drive them through.
Shrinkage is a huge issue as Frank has said. Kiln dried PT is the way to go.
 
I will take some pics tonight....if it isn't raining too hard.

So I guess using some aluminum "angle" is or isn't a good idea???? I have a friend who can powder coat it for me for a 6 pack of the cheap stuff :)
 
Transom Area Close.jpgTransom Area Close-new piece.jpg

Here are a couple pics, the red area is what I am wnating to build out...
 
you can see where I installed a pine 2x4 across the back of the boat just as a support until I can get some proper lumber..
 
The best way to do photos here is to get a Photobucket.com account upload the photos there then paste them in your post. We are restricted on space for photos here but PB does not and is free. MM
 
I'd get a full sheet of marine plywood. The "2x4" can be easily fabricated by laminating several strips of plywood glued together with epoxy. In fact you could paint that with epoxy and then you'd never have to worry about moisture.

Henry
 
You need help from Friscoboater. Here is his YouTube link. Hope you don't have anything to do for a while there is a lot of info here. [video]http://www.youtube.com/user/FriscoJarretts[/video]
 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/00..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1E613AMQ082999C02CEC

http://www.amazon.com/Boatowners-Me...=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1324419475&sr=1-1

Either or both of the above books would be a great help for you in your restoration efforts. I have both of them and they are both great. All I do is maintenance and upgrades and find them invaluable. The Casey book has more on the fiberglass and wooden parts of the boat. The Calder book is a much better electrical and mechanical book although Casey does cover electrical and mechanical. They both were initially aimed at sail boaters but they work equally well for power boaters (just skip the sections on rigging and sailwork).

John
 
MonacoMike said:
I'm not a boat restoration expert, but that advice seems bad. When I had a rotted floor panel over the gas tank I used pressure treated plywood and coated it with epoxy from West Systems. It is available at West Marine and was easy to do, and wow, is it strong. MM

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/
Click to expand...

I might add this was what was recomended to me before I found CSR. I did use big box store PT plywood, acheived good adheision to the surface, and experienced no noticeable shrinkage. I predrilled mounting holes and sealed it with epoxy in the holes, additionally it was too hard to staple so I glued the carpet in place over my panel. It worked for my simple application as it will likely last longer than the 85 boat will. MM
 
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