Where is it safe to store 1lb propane cylinders for a Magma grill?

CJ Martin said:
I keep two tanks in a section of 4" PVC pipe. A 1" section of 3" pipe sits between the two bottles and keeps them from banging into each other. At the bottom is a 4" to 3" reducer (leaving the bottom open to vent) and at the top is a cap (not glued). I ran a rope through the cap and down to a hole drilled in the reducer. This lets me hang the whole thing in the transom locker, with the bottom pointed towards the hole that the power cord runs out. If anything leaks, most if not all the gas should vent with no problem.

I do think I'm going to look for the brass caps Mike mentioned, seems like a good addition.

-CJ
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I like this idea along with Mike's as well. I rarely carry them any more. Either way I store propane in the transom locker. I figure it's vented with the drain hole in the base of the transom locker. I now use a 1 gal(4.24 lb) propane tank. I trust that valve more than the disposable bottles.
41-4lbtank.jpg
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It fits nicely in the corner of the transom locker. I haven't painted it with plastidip yet but I plan to do either that or run it by a sprayed truck bed liner place and have them spray half way up it.
 
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Nehalennia said:
I like this idea along with Mike's as well. I rarely carry them any more. Either way I store propane in the transom locker. I figure it's vented with the drain hole in the base of the transom locker. I now use a 1 gal(4.24 lb) propane tank. I trust that valve more than the disposable bottles.
41-4lbtank.jpg
.
It fits nicely in the corner of the transom locker. I haven't painted it with plastidip yet but I plan to do either that or run it by a sprayed truck bed liner place and have them spray half way up it.
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What is the hardware you used to connect it to the Magma regulator/control?

Henry
 
I thought about using a bigger fiberglass tank, but wasn't sure I liked the idea of that much propane on the boat. Although I do have to keep many of the 1lb tanks on board, but at least if 1 springs a leak, it's not 5 or 10 lbs leaking. It sure would be more convenient though.

Henry, they make a hose that attaches to the tank on one end and the other side has a female end that looks like the 1lb tanks. it screws right into the stock regulator.

10lbs-Web__.jpg


See here: http://www.litecylinder.com/
 
Henry Boyd said:
What is the hardware you used to connect it to the Magma regulator/control?

Henry
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It's similar to the this but it's the Coleman version. It connects the tank directly to the blue regulator valve.
http://www.magmaproducts.com/Products/Residental_Products/Res_Valve/Hose_Kit_601/hose_kit_601.html
DM-601_LG.jpg

The downside is it doesn't seem to cook as warm as the small canisters. It does ok, but I've discovered I need the below valve, hose kit with a regulator for the proper set up.
A10-223buynow

A10-225_lg.jpg
 
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I wrote a message a few years ago about how exactly to make one of these (pictures, instructions, etc.) but it seems to be purged. Do they do that?

P1010027 sml.JPG

I made this out of PVC with a cap and a pressure testing cap. The cap is easy on off and provides a nice tight seal. Been using it for several years and it works great. Made it to accomodate 2 canisters.

What happened to the old posts?
 
Hey, that's my idea. Minus the vent line.

Actually, seeing how easy this would be to make, I am going to move this up on my todo list...

Thanks for posting that. Do you know how much pressure the test caps can support?
 
Not sure off hand what the maximum pressure is but I remember reading the label at Home Depot. It is intended to be used by plumbers to test for leaks under pressure as they lay a pipe line.
P1010121 sml.JPG
 
The end cap works great. I've used it number of times in plumbing applications.

What do you guys find as a common failing point resulting in leaking cans, the valve on the can or regulator valve when it's attached to the can?
 
The only time a cannister has failed for me (twice) is when it was very old and the stem valve leaked. Upon inspection, there was clearly rust present. So I advise everyone to inspect all old cannisters and properly discard if there is any signs of rust.

I don't store the cannisters with the regulator attached. Seems to me the regulator is not reliable as a solid shut off for storrage.
 
I have seen quite a few of the valves in the canisters leak.

I also do not store the regulator on the tank, although I wonder if it may be a better seal. Thinking about it now, maybe part of the problem is taking the regulator on and off. Perhaps the valve is of poor quality.

Everytime I pull the regulator off of the tank, I hold the tank stem up to my ear, to listen for leaks. I guess it looks funny, because people always ask what I am doing. But occasionally I get a leaker.

I tried to look up the pressure rating of that test plug and came up with this:

  • Maximum allowed air is 5 PSIG on plastic and 2 PSIG on galvanized.
  • Plastic mechanical plugs are premium plugs designed to hold higher pressures.
Not sure what "Higher Pressures" are, that's why I thought a vent line would be a good idea.

Jack, have you ever had a tank fail in your holder? Seems like it could even be dangerous, if that test plug came shooting off of there as you loosened it.
 
Greg said:
I have seen quite a few of the valves in the canisters leak.

I also do not store the regulator on the tank, although I wonder if it may be a better seal. Thinking about it now, maybe part of the problem is taking the regulator on and off. .....
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Greg,

I would guess that taking the regulator off and putting the sealed cap on the can would be the best solution. But, all these years when I put the regulator on the can it stays on until the can is used. I always store the can with the regulator in the vertical position with nothing around that could touvh the valve. I also never had a can so old where a valve would get rusted. If I saw a rust on a can near the valve it would just go in to garbage.
 
Jack380AC said:
Not sure off hand what the maximum pressure is but I remember reading the label at Home Depot. It is intended to be used by plumbers to test for leaks under pressure as they lay a pipe line.
View attachment 20259
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I just don't see how this is any safer than just storing the bottle loose:huh: It will not hold the pressure if the bottle leaks and as mentioned earlier looks like pressure could blow it right off...IMHO. I think the brass caps are a much safer choice. I can see the tube protecting the bottle from the elements like salt corrosion.
 
floriduramax1 said:
I just don't see how this is any safer than just storing the bottle loose:huh: It will not hold the pressure if the bottle leaks and as mentioned earlier looks like pressure could blow it right off...IMHO. I think the brass caps are a much safer choice. I can see the tube protecting the bottle from the elements like salt corrosion.
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Even though I agree that the brass cap is better, I still think that storing in PVC is safer than storing it loose. The PVC tube is creating additional safety shell and the fact that it's going to blow is an overstatement, IMO. As Gary mentioned, PVC with venting tube outside of the hull is ideal. So, combination of both, the PVC and the brass cap is great. I'm still looking to find the best storage spot for it on my new boat.
 
Alex F said:
Even though I agree that the brass cap is better, I still think that storing in PVC is safer than storing it loose. The PVC tube is creating additional safety shell and the fact that it's going to blow is an overstatement, IMO. As Gary mentioned, PVC with venting tube outside of the hull is ideal. So, combination of both, the PVC and the brass cap is great. I'm still looking to find the best storage spot for it on my new boat.
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Yeah, but every time I see that pvc tube with no vent, it takes me back to my potato gun days...lol
 
Using the test plug and a 1/2" vent line to the outside of the boat would meet the AYBC requirements for propane storage lockers. There are some other requirements about the location of the vent with respect to other openings into the boat.

Henry
 
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