1994 270 sundancer aft seat

C

CaptainFren

New Member
May 4, 2011
6
Safety Harbor Florida
Boat Info
1994 Sea Ray 270 Sundancer
Engines
5.7 mercruiser
I have a 1994 sundancer that I just purchased .The aft seat was held up by coolers .I would like to put back the fold away legs which I purchase a pair of garelick legs .The legs I have are 13" long this is much to long for the seat .I was wondering if anyone new the leg lenght ? The legs I have are made to be cut.Also I was wondering when this seat is straight out if it should be lower or even with the seat facing it .I think they took the seat out or moved it to acomadate the collers and it is not in the original spot .Any help would be greatly appreciated :smt100
 
On my 1997 270 the facing seat is about the same height because they share a cockpit table. Also, on mine the seat attaches to the rear wall so the height of the front legs would be determined by that.
 
I can measure the leg length on mine in a few hours. I have a 92 270 and I believe they are the same. I had to replace the folding brackets on mine when I bought it, but the legs are original. Seems like its about the same height, or just shorter than the other rear seat?
 
MLauman is correct the seat connects to the bracket on the back wall and is the same height as the aft-facing seat. I love the cocktail table as well. This is not the same vessel as the 92 270 so it would not be the same. You can confirm this by going to the Sea Ray model archives. MM
 
MLauman said:
On my 1997 270 the facing seat is about the same height because they share a cockpit table. Also, on mine the seat attaches to the rear wall so the height of the front legs would be determined by that.
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Thanks for the info .I was also wondering if that cockpit table becomes a sun pad
 
They offered 2 options (at least on some year models) - one had the seat that folded up against the wall (hinged). I'm pretty sure that one does not convert to a sunpad. The other option - which I have - has a somewhat larger back seat that does not fold up. You have to actually remove the seat to get into the bilge. With that configuration, there is a seperate shorter table support that allows you to turn the back area into a sunpad.

As MonacoMike says, I believe 1994 marked the first year of the 8½ foot beam 270 model that was built until mid 1999.
 
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The aft table does convert from a table to a platform and holds a folding cushion between the aft and next forward (rear facing) seat. The table rests on ledges on each seat and you should have a very short pole that supports it underneath (mounts in table leg hole). The table has snaps on the underside to hold the cushion. If you have a cabin canvas this set up works well for kids sleeping quarters.
 
whayes said:
The aft table does convert from a table to a platform and holds a folding cushion between the aft and next forward (rear facing) seat. The table rests on ledges on each seat and you should have a very short pole that supports it underneath (mounts in table leg hole). The table has snaps on the underside to hold the cushion. If you have a cabin canvas this set up works well for kids sleeping quarters.
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I have the ledges and have tried the table in between the seats and it does seem to fit . I was trying to get a measurement on leg hieght . Does your seat fold away or come completly out .My seat is attatch to the back with a hinge and folds away:thumbsup:
 
I have a Mid 90s 270 Sundancer narrow beam with similar issues. The aft seat folds out from the transom and the two legs fold down. This is a poor design. Both legs gave out the other week. I discovered the starboard leg had already been remounted by screwing into the seat wood. The port leg pulled out from what appeared to be the original mounting. I remounted both legs with larger screws but the port side pulled out again.

Does anyone have advice on a better way to mount the leg assemblies to the aft folding seat?
 
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SDA said:
I have a Mid 90s 270 Sundancer narrow beam with similar issues. The aft seat folds out from the transom and the two legs fold down. This is a poor design. Both legs gave out the other week. I discovered the starboard leg had already been remounted by screwing into the seat wood. The port leg pulled out from what appeared to be the original mounting. I remounted both legs with larger screws but the port side pulled out again.

Does anyone have advice on a better way to mount the leg assemblies to the aft folding seat?
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They are screwed to the bottom of the seat which is some type of plywood for lack of a better term. I did not realize the pull out seat was fiberglass, along with the sunpad that makes it even better. I still have the legs. I just need to remount them so they can support weight. I have the fold into the transom seat, not the pull out one.

duckmnn said:
Are your legs screwed to the bottom of seat? Or a fiberglass bench that is removable ? I have the removable fiberglass bench the coushion snaps onto. I can measure my legs tonight if yours is same as mine.
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The wood in the seat is 20 years old. It's in a place that can get wet. Who knows how it's been cared for. It's not so much of a "bad design" as it may just be time to rebuild the seat (whether partially, or fully). Not all that hard for someone with some experience. Pretty straight forward.
 
Right. Fold into the transom type seat, apparently the other removable / sun pad seat is fiberglass. And right, whether it is a poor design or not does not matter now.All of the mid 90s 270 Sundancers are approaching 20 years and the wood used inthe folding transom bench has seen better days. I guess other than having aprofessional upholster rebuild the seat the other option would be to rebuild it myself. I assume that entails the following - detach the seat from the transom, remove the'staples' from under the seat, use the old wood to trace and cut new wood, reattach the legs somehow, and put the whole thing back together. Any advice on rebuilding the seat? Marine grade plywood / treated or fiberglass? Best way to reattach the legs (through bolt and counter sink?)?

This is a bigger job than I had hoped it would be time, labor, tool, and knowledge wise.

[QUOTE=Lazy Daze;752713]The wood in the seat is 20 years old. It's in a place that can get wet. Who knows how it's been cared for. It's not so much of a "bad design" as it may just be time to rebuild the seat (whether partially, or fully). Not all that hard for someone with some experience. Pretty straight forward.[/QUOTE]
 
It's not as hard as it might sound. It's one of those things that once you get into it, it turns out to be not that bad. It'll take about 5 minutes to pull the seat off, which will make the repair easier than trying to do it on the boat.

One of the "best practice" ways to fix this is to do as you are thinking - replace the entire piece with a new 3/4" marine plywood piece, which can be coated with resin for extra protection. Although let's face it - the existing wood lasted this long without being coated.....

You may be able to just cut away the mesh and cut-in a patch (say 8" square), depending on the condition of the surrounding wood -- or maybe just drill (oversize) the screw holes out and fill with thickened resin and then predrill for new screws. Another thought is to drill an access hole and slide in a t-nut, but chances are it won't grip very well.

All in all - replacing the entire wood is only a few hour job, at best. Basic hand tools.
 
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