240 Sundeck Thread - Questions and Answers

Hi all,
Just picked up my new used 2007 240 SD and took it 1st ride from the deal back to my dock (with 25 mile an hour winds) and it handles much nicer then my old 210 SD. I noticed 2 issues that maybe someone hear can shed some light.

1) The door by the the storage areas by the helm ( where the radio and icechest is) popped open and I noticed that the bolt or tongue ( dont know what its called) was hardly making connection to the plate, as if it needs to stick out another quarter of an inch so it can latch into the plate. Looked to me like the plate needs to be sticking out more. ANy body have any ideas?

2) After washing the boat down real well, I opened the rear floor storage locker ( Ski locker) and saw there was water in it, not a lot but above the drain hole tube that should allow it to flow to the engine compartment where it could be pumped out. The plug was not in but the water did not flow out. I thought it was clogged, so I placed a running house and placed it into the drain hole and with the pressure from the hose aimed at the drainage hose it did flow, but once I removed the hose, the locker still had water that did not drain even though these was some water sitting above the drain. I see that there is a dented area below the drain hole so there is alwasys some water but in this case it was filled about 1 inch above the drain hole. ANy ideas?

Thanks Les
 
Hi all,
Just picked up my new used 2007 240 SD and took it 1st ride from the deal back to my dock (with 25 mile an hour winds) and it handles much nicer then my old 210 SD. I noticed 2 issues that maybe someone hear can shed some light.

1) The door by the the storage areas by the helm ( where the radio and icechest is) popped open and I noticed that the bolt or tongue ( dont know what its called) was hardly making connection to the plate, as if it needs to stick out another quarter of an inch so it can latch into the plate. Looked to me like the plate needs to be sticking out more. ANy body have any ideas?

2) After washing the boat down real well, I opened the rear floor storage locker ( Ski locker) and saw there was water in it, not a lot but above the drain hole tube that should allow it to flow to the engine compartment where it could be pumped out. The plug was not in but the water did not flow out. I thought it was clogged, so I placed a running house and placed it into the drain hole and with the pressure from the hose aimed at the drainage hose it did flow, but once I removed the hose, the locker still had water that did not drain even though these was some water sitting above the drain. I see that there is a dented area below the drain hole so there is alwasys some water but in this case it was filled about 1 inch above the drain hole. ANy ideas?

Thanks Les

Congratulations on the new ride.
#1 Sounds like the door needs to be adjusted. How does it do when you latch it open to block the wind from the front? I had to adjust mine when I first got mine.

#2 There will always be some water left in the back ski storage area. The idea was that with the drain raised the sand/crud would not flow back to the bilge area. I cut a piece of wood to fit over the sunken area so that it stuff would stay out of the water. I use a small wet vac on board to get the little bit that gets trapped in that area. I think I posted a pictures of the fix some time ago.
 
Chuck,

THanks for getting back to me. Interms of the latch, it works perfectly when the door is open and used as a wind shield as the toungue in the latch fits nicely into the other part on the frame, but when it closes the tougue only has a fraction of an inch int to the frame. The door appears aligned, its as if the bracket on the frame needs to stick out another 1\4 inche . Maybe I can add a shim behind the bracket.

In terms of the water in the locker, I understand what you are saying, but even when the water is higher then the drain hole it will not drain. But if it goes several inches above the drain whole it works.

Because of bad weather I did not have much time to spend figuring things out, but hopefully next weekend the weather will be better here in NJ, and I can look around some more.

Les
 
for those of you that have dual batteries,what is your normal procedure of using them? ie starting with one or both,running with switch on both etc. thanks.
 
Start on one, run on both, back to one when rafting up/anchor out listening to tunes.
I switch between the one I use, but always keep one for starting if needed.
ie: Today run start and listen to tunes on battery one.
Next time start and listen to tunes on battery two.
Next time start and listen to tunes on battery one.
etc....
 
Chuck
What batteries do you use?

I am on borrowed time for lead batteries (2 and 3 year old) and thinking about Diehard AGM - I notice Diehard car battetry has 4 year warranty and Diehard marine battery has three year battery and do not see any difference in them.
 
I can't remember the name off the top of my head. They are the standard batteries, but I keep them charged/maintained full time via the charger I have installed.
 
thanks chuck1. i notice you have a charger and why? don't they get charged while running with altenater. and does anyone use a solar panel for maintaining a charge?
 
I added true shore power to my SD because I used to keep it slipped year round. Most places will not let you have a bilge heater unless it is powered with true shore power. Since I was adding true shore power I went ahead and added a built in charger/maintainer. Yes they do charge via the alternator when running.
 
Have you been getting much use of your bow tent? Can you share your experiences with over night stays on the boat? I'm still debating getting one because of the cost.






I had considered looking into a patent.It was my idea but it was her hard work that created exactly what I wanted.So I don't think I have much right to the final product.
The tent was made by The Cover Girl (Tammy) phone #770-271-9093.For those of you that live in the area her street is across from Marine Max on Friendship Rd.The orignal price that I was quoted was low for the amount of labor & material involved to make the final product. So she wanted me to let others know that it would be around $1000 for the next one. When I started looking into having this made I estimated it would cost around $1000 so I got a really good deal having her make the first one. I am more than pleased with the final product and can not wait to use it.

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What is the black receesed item (behind anchor hinge) in the last picture next to the suhi platter?
 
Hello All, I have been lurking here for a week or so while looking at used Sea Ray boats. I have read thru all the pages of the 240SD thread and appreciate all the info. We are on Sanibel Island in Florida.

I am looking at a 2002 240 Sundeck that shows 170 hours on the meter. This boat was recently relocated to Florida from Michigan so she has spent the majority of its life in fresh water. The boat is immaculate and looks near new. All the fittings are clean and corrosion free, gel coat is still shiny and the the engine looks new. It has a full camper enclosure which looks new. There are a couple of gell coat cracks behind the most aft seats on the opposite side of the walk thru door. I tested all the systems and only found 2 aux lights inop.

We did a sea trial it today. As soon as the engine started I could hear a fairly noticeable ticking/clicking noise which seemed to come from the left rear of the engine while looking at the engine from the inside deck. The noise did seem to quiet down after the temps came up but was still noticeable. The noise did seem to change with rpms.

I also noticed that the engine temp on the dial temp gauge was between the 170 and 220 mark. This year model does not have the digital gauge. The owner was not concerned but I was. The engine operated smooth. We were able to reach a speed of 45 mph per my handheld gps, and it might have gained more speed if we had more open water.

After we returned to the dock I felt the risers and the left riser was significantly warmer than the right, once again viewing from the inside deck. These are the original risers (wow 8 or 9 years old). The raw water pump and I think another pump were replaced recently according to some receipts.

The owner is going to bring the boat to a shop to have temp issue looked at. I also asked to have a compression test done and a diagnosis of the ticking/clicking noise.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks
Jim

We wound up not buying this boat. The owner would not address the temp or engine noise issues properly.

We found a 2003 240SD with 260 hours that looks and runs great. We have put about 30 hours on it already. We are really impressed with how the boat performs in rougher waters and windier conditions.

The only thing it didn't have that we wanted was the camper package. We will be ordering one from Great lakes.

While we are in Florida the boat will be stored in a dockominium and when we are gone it will be in covered storage inland Florida. We have actually done an overnight sleeping under the bow cover at a Palm Island, Fl. marina. Here a some photos.

We are missing the original cooler, can someone tell me what size fits in the designated storage area??

Jim

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...
We are missing the original cooler, can someone tell me what size fits in the designated storage area??
Jim


Jim,

What you have not read the whole thread yet. I think it has been addressed a couple of time (Just kidding)

If I remember correctly it is a 36 quart igloo marine cooler.

Good looking boat.
 
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Thanks Chuck, I have read the thread and even searched this thread only for cooler and still could not find it. I know it is in there somewhere. I must be getting old or something :)

Jim
 
Jim
What is the black receesed item (behind anchor hinge) in the last picture next to the suhi platter?
__________________
 
Jim
What is the black receesed item (behind anchor hinge) in the last picture next to the suhi platter?
__________________

This boat was stored on Davits. There was a beautiful large polished I bolt that was attached to the bow ring down inside the compartment. I didn't need the lifting ring and installed a Scotty Rod Holder Adapter The adapter in the link is rectangular but they also make round adapters/baseplates. I didn't know what to do with the hole so I filled it with what I had. I may in the future replace it with a flush plug if I don't use the rod holders.

The rod holder pops into the base plate firmly and is very secure.

The previous owner lived on a fresh water canal in Bradenton, Fl. and had to davit the boat into the salt water canal every time he took the boat into the gulf. I can't imagine having to do that after a day of fun on the water. It was very impressive to witness this being done.

Jim
 
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