Air conditioner not pumping water

C

craig240DA

New Member
Apr 27, 2007
94
Brand New 2007 240DA (20 hrs) and the air conditioner isn't pumping water so it shuts off after a minute. The dealer says I need to "run" it to get water into the pump but that sucks because we are on a canal and it takes 20 minutes of No Wake before I get some speed on to "Prime" it, and now I'm not sure its going to work when we need it.

Does everybody need to "Prime" the air conditioner before it works?

p.s. Yes, the stopcock is in the proper position.
 
Try disconnecting the hose from the strainer to the pump. Water should start dripping/pouring. This confirm water is getting to the strainer OK. Next see if you can 'feed' some water towards the pump. Some people also remove the hose from the pump to the A/C to let trapper air escape and this may help prime it.

If your A/C is accessible, on a previous boat I had I would disconnect the hose at the A/C unit and suck on it. This would start the flow and a quick connect with clamps back on the A/C. Always got a bit of water to spill, but A/C would work fine.

This assumes you have already ruled out a bad pump. If you haven't, confirm the pump turns ON / make sure it has 12v with a meter.

Esteban
 
This will happen regularly if you trailer or put the boat on a lift.
Do your self a favor. cut the hose between the pump and ac unit. Install a T and a piece of hose with a valve on the end. double clamp everything and secure the hose above the waterline. now when the NON self priming pump air locks open the valve and let water into the hose.
 
Wow, thanks for the really quick reply. Great suggestions. So in general, I am thinking that the dealer is correct, so I need a primer solution such as a hose quick connection into the system with a stopcock, to get it started, like the flush kit for the engine only more simple. This way I just conect a hose, start the air and then close the stopcock as it starts to run. I really don't want to mess around with unclamping, sucking, reclamping, trying to see if it worked.... You've been there.

This is still messed up as I have a brand new $55,000 boat that I have rig up a gizmo to get the air to work? Sucks.
 
Nevermonday,
Sorry we answered at the same time. I was suggesting a T-piece to connect a hose to pressurise the system. Are you saying just have a hose with water in it and let it flow in when the pump air-locks?
 
This is a common problem. Your dealer knows how to fix this and it doesn't involve "running" the boat. The ac pump will not work if there is air in the system.

The best way to get air out is to pump fluid thru the pump (the ac/heat pump uses a diaphram not an impeller) and the system.

This fix also makes it a snap to winterize the system.

Here's what you will need:

1) Tee fitting
2) Electric fluid pump and/or
garden hose with a double female end.

Here's what to do:

1) Close the seacock.

2) Cut the hose from the seacock to the strainer and insert a tee that fits the hose and has a male garden hose adapter on it. The garden hose adapter has a removable cap on it with a rubber washer inside. The hose will have an internal support wire which needs to be cut. Double clamp the tee on each hose end.

3) You can hook up an external pump to push water or if you are winterizing; antifreeze through the system. Or if you are simply want to get it going for the summer you can attach a garden hose to the fitting and hook it up to your fresh water system to push the air out.

4) With the seacock closed, hook up the water source to the tee and turn it on. With in 20 seconds, water will flow from the hull fitting. Switch the fluid source off, put the cap on the tee fitting, open the seacock and everything should be good.

Remember to close the seacock if you pull the boat from the water or air will find it's way back into the system.


-John
 
BTW Wife is here and can't believe we are all live and you are on-line helping us. THANKS

:smt038 :smt024 :smt038 :smt024 :smt038
 
Adding the T is an easy way to feed water into the system. Cut the 3/4 inch hose, put a tee and a valve. If there's an air lock, open the valve and feed water. Retry and you should be all set.

Something like this.

I added a nylon tee with a marelon valve and hose adapter. In my case I use it to flush salt-away every now and then, say once a month, through the A/C. I have the same setup for the generator. I don't know that flushing salt-away ocassionally will protect, but I figured it can't hurt. (to comment on this, start a new topic) Of course I can also use it if I have an air lock since I store the boat at a dry rack marina.

Esteban
 
Last edited:
Playdate... no need to winterize here in Florida, but no doubt the tee is a good add-on to flush pink stuff through the A/C come winter time up north. I used to be in the Chesapeake and know all about it.

Craig240DA... I wonder the same... is there a need to flush gen and A/C after each use in salt-water? Let's create a new topic so as to not to hijack this one. I'll create it now...

Esteban
 
[quote="craig240DA
This is still messed up as I have a brand new $55,000 boat that I have rig up a gizmo to get the air to work? Sucks.[/quote]

I agree, this should have been caught at the last PDI when it was in the water.

Pat
 
never monday said:
PlayDate said:
the ac/heat pump uses a diaphram not an impeller
-John
Click to expand...

Correction sir,
Most HVAC systems use a Cal brand pump. These are non self priming centrifugal pumps.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/10001/-1/10001/24693/10001/583/35/12
Click to expand...

You are correct in the sense I should have been more specific. Most AC pumps, regardless of the manufacturer are not self-priming which is why having air in the system from launching, trailering etc. causes an operating problem.

The photos posted by Esteban are an outstanding example of how to address the issue of priming the pump and flushing it out. This access should be standard from the factory.

-John
 
Ever the contrarian, I beg to differ with those who think this situation sucks. It is very normal and will happen to any boat whose physical layout is such that the a/c system can siphon back thru the thru-hull....and it can happen to generators as well, if the siphon break isn't properly installed.

Sea Ray could engineer a priming system for the a/c systems, but you would then think the additional $2500-3500 option cost for automatic a/c priming would suck as well.

You can certainly rig up any manner of flushing devices.....don't cut the water lines and add more barbrd fittings, there are bronze threaded fittings on the strainer, use them with threaded bronze T's, L's, etc., not plastic or Marelon, to accomodate your need. However, if you will just close the sea cock on the A/C system before lifting or loading the boat, the water will not siphon out.

As far as the a/c pumps go and pushing water thru them, I believe they are magnetic drive centrifugal pumps, not diaphram type, and they are chosen for this application so you can flush or prime them with a hose and run them dry for short periods without burning up impellers.
 
This isn't that hard!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Take the hose off on the supply side of the pump and allow water to run in (like someone said really early in this thread). This will fill the line and burp the pump of some air, which will allow it to get a grip on the water and finish priming after you start it up.

If you leave the pump with air and the line with air, it can't self-prime. Get it started, and it'll do just fine.

You'll need to do this everytime the boat is taken out of the water, most likely.
 
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