Found another water leak in my 260DA

help....i have a leak,but I think it must be elsewhere. I'm getting water in the aft cabin. I did get new canvas this year so i'm woundering if this could be from the windshield? if so, where should I look? Any advice would be great.
It looks like it will continue to rain here in Maine for the next 100 days so I should have plenty of water to track.........
 
I've been reading all these leak issues trying to figure out why after 2 years of owning my 240 it's collecting water in the bilge also. It only happens when it's raining. The water collects under the wast basket and seeps onto the carpet. There are no other wet areas that I can find. I've checked the windows and they seem tight. I'm going to try the hose test on the rub rail and see if that's the problem. Very frustrating....especially since it's been raining here for 40 days and 40 nights! Appreciate any suggetions.
 
Chuck & Dave-

Dave you got me wondering on this one so I called my SR rep. I've been under the impression that an epoxy has been used on all horizontal surfaces. However, it turns out it is only used on the liner to hull area - not the deck to hull joint as I had previously stated. Apparently there is not enough room for the epoxy.
As Dave mentioned, it is screwed together - along with caulk. When the rubrail is attached, those screws are long enough to provide additional fastening.
Sorry for the misinformation.
 
After 2 days and 1500 miles on the road from MA to FL, I arrived at midnight last night. I took the boat over to the dealer today so they could see first hand. They took photos and upon their inspection found even more areas along the joint where it doesn't "sound" right. They suspect almost 50% of it at various spots around the boat are loose or coming loose. NICE! :smt013:smt013:smt013

They confirmed that below the stainless rub rail (trim) the joint is screwed together. The rub rail screws should also add additional support, however he thought that not all of the rub rail screws are long enough to penetrate, only some of them every so often. There is no expoxy on this joint. :smt013

They then had a tech caulk it up for now so I can use the boat without taking on water.

Here's the deal for me at this point, they are going to write it up with photos and send to SR for feedback on how to proceed. They would like to get the boat in, take the whole rub rail off and inspect the entire joint. This will also let them find out why its failing. Once they have it all apart and a rememdy for fix done, they will need SR to approve. This whole process with repairs could take 1-2 weeks.

Since I am now here in FL for the month of July on the water, I am not too excited about leaving the boat in the shop for 2 weeks while this gets sorted out. So I'm figuring we'll use it for the month as is (with caulking) and then leave it here for them to have at it when we head back north. Just means I'll have to come back down to get her later. Yee haw, another boating trip to FL.:thumbsup: Now if I can only get the darn thing to stay together..:smt101
 
It sucks when you want to relax and you're worried about issues. I'm sure they'll get you fixed up in the long run, don't let it bug you on vacation.
Best of luck Chuck.
 
Remember you are on Florida time so two weeks means 6 weeks or so. LOL And if MM is involved it will require 2 or 3 trips to the shop and maybe more. LOL :lol:

Sorry you have to deal with this on your vacation.
:smt089
 
Fishnut said:
Remember you are on Florida time so two weeks means 6 weeks or so. LOL And if MM is involved it will require 2 or 3 trips to the shop and maybe more. LOL :lol:

Sorry you have to deal with this on your vacation.
:smt089
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Ouch, worked with MM once or twice before?

So far my luck with them as been good. No complaints.
 
tobnpr said:
The hull-to-deck joint is indeed structural, and don't let anyone at SR bullsh** you by telling you it's not.
Once it starts coming apart the repeated flexing of the hull to the deck cap will only make it worse.

On better quality boats, this joint is through-bolted- and some builders take it even further by glassing over the joint from the inside. It's what holds the two piece hull together when the going gets rough. SR and many other builders simply screw this joint together as part of attaching the rubrail, with a wood strip on the inside for the screws to grab.

There shouldn't be much of a gap. If there is, it's going to be very difficult to get the repair to hold if they just run screws through it. They should use a structural filler or bonding putty to fill any large gaps.
Click to expand...

I have to say, I never had any issues like that with any of the 3 Formulas I owned. My brother has a 1982 Formula 233LS that is as solid as new one.:thumbsup:
 
1731KG said:
I've been reading all these leak issues trying to figure out why after 2 years of owning my 240 it's collecting water in the bilge also. It only happens when it's raining. The water collects under the wast basket and seeps onto the carpet. There are no other wet areas that I can find. I've checked the windows and they seem tight. I'm going to try the hose test on the rub rail and see if that's the problem. Very frustrating....especially since it's been raining here for 40 days and 40 nights! Appreciate any suggetions.
Click to expand...

That is an interesting one for sure. My windows leaked like a seve when we first got it.
 
Chuck

If you are going to leave the boat there, then I would arrange to bring the boat to the dealer just before you are ready to leave and have them remove the rub rail while you wait to get a first hand look at it yourself. And take lots of pictures too. In all likelihood it will take awhile to get this fixed because Sea Ray will also have to see digital pictures and then authorize a repair. Then of course the dealer has to do the work. And by all means let us know how this all shakes out in the end.

Yesterday I took a close look at my rub rail and it also has quite a gap under it on both sides towards the rear of the boat. To me that is an indication that the upper hull molding might be considerably wider than the lower hull where they are joined. Mine seems solid so I am not too concerned about it structurally. But in all lielihood this will be where the water intrusion into my bilge is occurring as well. I really would like to see the pictures of yours with the molding off.

Dave

Dave
 
Dave S said:
Chuck

If you are going to leave the boat there, then I would arrange to bring the boat to the dealer just before you are ready to leave and have them remove the rub rail while you wait to get a first hand look at it yourself. And take lots of pictures too. In all likelihood it will take awhile to get this fixed because Sea Ray will also have to see digital pictures and then authorize a repair. Then of course the dealer has to do the work. And by all means let us know how this all shakes out in the end.

Yesterday I took a close look at my rub rail and it also has quite a gap under it on both sides towards the rear of the boat. To me that is an indication that the upper hull molding might be considerably wider than the lower hull where they are joined. Mine seems solid so I am not too concerned about it structurally. But in all lielihood this will be where the water intrusion into my bilge is occurring as well. I really would like to see the pictures of yours with the molding off.

Dave

Dave
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That gap should not be there, something is amiss.

I do plan on trying to monitor the repairs closely, just haven't worked out the details yet. I will be keeping the post updated.

Test your gap with a hose with some pressure to it. Bet you're leaking, too.

Lovely, huh?
 
I've updated the OP. The boat will be opened up on 7/31/09.

When talking with the service manager, he had asked about my serial number to know where the boat was made. Turns out mine was done at Riverview, but he did say that Arizona's plant had some issues he's seen with hulls aligning and not staying together like mine is.

For what it's worth, I'd suggest all 05-08 260DA owner's carefully inspect the joint for any possible issues like I'm seeing.
 
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I still haven't checked mine out yet Chuck but I am almost certain that is the problem that causes my water intrusion. If I can locate where it is comming in I hope to seal it from the inside, But because of the panels in the engine compartment that may not be possible.

Will you be there to see it and take pictures when they remove the rub railing?

Dave
 
Dave S said:
I still haven't checked mine out yet Chuck but I am almost certain that is the problem that causes my water intrusion. If I can locate where it is comming in I hope to seal it from the inside, But because of the panels in the engine compartment that may not be possible.

Will you be there to see it and take pictures when they remove the rub railing?

Dave
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You really need to take it apart from the outside to seal it right.

Yes, I've arranged it so they will take it apart on our last day here. I will get pics and post once I have them.
 
I also had a bad leak in the cabin and traced it to the rub rail. We called MM and they came to the marina, removed most of the starboard rub rail and re-sealed it. Took him about 3 hrs. They did a beautiful job and no sign of a leak since.
 
I've updated the OP with more detail and pics exposing the problem and the proposed fix. One of the things the dealer would like to do, is secure the joint with a bead of 5200. Sounds good to me, the stronger and more permanent the bond the better. But didn't know if anyone felt there was a reason not to do that?
 
The fix itself is sound, but I would not use 3M 5200. That's a sealant and it's not for structural repairs despite what many may say. What you want to use is Plexus MA830 (4-6 hour working time) or MA832 (12 - 16 hour working time) depending on the complexity of the repair.

Edit: Tensile strength on 3m 5200 is like 700psi where Plexus MA830 is 3200-3800psi and MA832 is 3500-4000psi.

Doug
 
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douglee25 said:
The fix itself is sound, but I would not use 3M 5200. That's a sealant and it's not for structural repairs despite what many may say. What you want to use is Plexus MA830 (4-6 hour working time) or MA832 (12 - 16 hour working time) depending on the complexity of the repair.

Edit: Tensile strength on 3m 5200 is like 700psi where Plexus MA830 is 3200-3800psi and MA832 is 3500-4000psi.

Doug
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Thanks for the info. My thinking on this is to wait and see what SR says should be done. My fear being SR will only want to pay to repair it according to SR spec and not do anything "extra". If that holds true, then I would have to pay the difference to apply a "better" more solid fix. We'll see. :huh:
 
ChuckW said:
Thanks for the info. My thinking on this is to wait and see what SR says should be done. My fear being SR will only want to pay to repair it according to SR spec and not do anything "extra". If that holds true, then I would have to pay the difference to apply a "better" more solid fix. We'll see. :huh:
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I was just thinkin about you today and your situation and had wondered what the status was, good timing.

I was down last weekend to check out the marina and looks like it will be my new home.

Sounds like your gonna be in a the same situation as I was with Mercruiser and the corrosion problem I had. Pete knew of better ways to fix things but he's required because of warranty to do exactly as they (Sea Ray/Mercruiser) say otherwise they are held accoutable to any issue after the repair.
 
If you go into the dealer with the knowledge why 5200 isn't the right way to repair it, then they shouldn't refute it.

The reason why 5200 isn't the correct repair is because that joint is supposed to be structural after the adhesive sets. The screws are there just to hold the two pieces together while the adhesive dries. Once the adhesive sets, the joint is secured and technically the screws could be removed even though most manufacturers never do. The joint currently on your boat failed due to incorrect adhesive being used or an insufficient amount along the seam.

Use the plexus and the joint will hold for life.

Doug
 
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