Sliding Cabin Door 240 Sundancer

scubamiller

New Member
May 23, 2009
3
Laguna Niguel, CA
Boat Info
240 Sundancer 2000
Engines
454 Mercruiserw/Bravo III out drive
The bottom metal part to the door that slides in the track has come loose and all the screws have backed out. It looks like a tough job to fix.
Has anyone fixed this problem and if so how?
I'd appreciate hearing from someone. This is my first post.
I just joined yesterday.
Thanks, Paul
Laguna Niguel, CA
2000 240 SeaRay Sundancer
 
This continues to be a problem. There are many posts about this issue. Cockpit door, sliding door,etc. I do know that once it happens, trouble is ahead. The sliding door has improved over the years, but you could be in for a major repair.
 
I'd try squirting a little 3M 4200 in the screw holes and then putting the screws back in. Do as many as you can get to. The only way that I know of to remove the door and be able to reach the whole track is to remove the dash.
 
The bottom metal part to the door that slides in the track has come loose and all the screws have backed out. It looks like a tough job to fix.
Has anyone fixed this problem and if so how?
I'd appreciate hearing from someone. This is my first post.
I just joined yesterday.
Thanks, Paul
Laguna Niguel, CA
2000 240 SeaRay Sundancer

there is a replacement part from SR with longer "lip" which allow to install screws without removing door
 
I had the same problem on my 2002 240. Mine was completely separated from the door!! Here is what I did. Take the carpeted trim around the door off and the stainless step plate on the bottom of entrance. Drill an access hole to the plate and screws at least 3/4" dia. Don't worry it gets covered when you put the trim back on!!. I then removed the old screws. I then drilled larger holes in the plate and thru the door completely!!! Yes, thru the door!! I then used stainless bolts to fasten door to the track. You can hardly see the bolts when the door is closed because it's so low. My door is open all the time anyway so you can't see them at all. Door is very solid now and the only cost I had were the bolts!! Hope this helps. Yeh, I'm a newby to this site. Looks cool though:thumbsup:
 
Thank you Billy. I drilled the 3/4" access hole with a hole saw and was able to accomplish the job relatively easy. Your solution saved me $2,000.00. I put 1-5/8", 10-24 stainless steel bolts through the bottom of the door and used nice looking cap nuts on the outside. The door is very solid like yours. Again thanks.
Paul
 
Scuba - sorry - I misread your initial post and thought you were talking about channel attached to the boat, not the door. I probably scared you with my post!

Billy, thanks for posting that. I did the same thing on my old 215EC a few years back. But, even thinking back on it now, I wouldn't have remembered what I did well enough to give as good of directions as you did.:thumbsup:
 
I sure wish I could get a picture of this. my 96 must be a little different, because I cant quite figure this out.


I had the same problem on my 2002 240. Mine was completely separated from the door!! Here is what I did. Take the carpeted trim around the door off and the stainless step plate on the bottom of entrance. Drill an access hole to the plate and screws at least 3/4" dia. Don't worry it gets covered when you put the trim back on!!. I then removed the old screws. I then drilled larger holes in the plate and thru the door completely!!! Yes, thru the door!! I then used stainless bolts to fasten door to the track. You can hardly see the bolts when the door is closed because it's so low. My door is open all the time anyway so you can't see them at all. Door is very solid now and the only cost I had were the bolts!! Hope this helps. Yeh, I'm a newby to this site. Looks cool though:thumbsup:
 
I had the same problem on my 2002 240. Mine was completely separated from the door!! Here is what I did. Take the carpeted trim around the door off and the stainless step plate on the bottom of entrance. Drill an access hole to the plate and screws at least 3/4" dia. Don't worry it gets covered when you put the trim back on!!. I then removed the old screws. I then drilled larger holes in the plate and thru the door completely!!! Yes, thru the door!! I then used stainless bolts to fasten door to the track. You can hardly see the bolts when the door is closed because it's so low. My door is open all the time anyway so you can't see them at all. Door is very solid now and the only cost I had were the bolts!! Hope this helps. Yeh, I'm a newby to this site. Looks cool though:thumbsup:

Hi there - and hi all.
I have a Sundancer 240 2001 model and, over the course of a few weeks, the door came off its lower track.
Firstly, let me point fingers at the designers of this system. It has to be the worse design I have ever seen in terms of ease of repair and replacement of parts (can't speak for the later models but I hope they got it right!).
OK - that's off my chest.
Now, following on from Your (Enchanted Billy's) input, I attempted the same.
And here is a Youtube vid of my (successful) attempt on his (her??) idea: http://youtu.be/7p8ZmRpMW9I
Hope it helps anyone else with the same problem.
Cheers!
 
Hi. This was really useful. I know how to fix bottom track but can anyone let me know how the door runs on the top track? Is it balls like bottom track or different? Top track is there but can't see anything to attach it to top of door and help top run smoothly.
 
Many thanks to Enchanted Billy and kbdozz. I am a new member, and found your post on Utube which lead me to this club. My lower door track came off 2 years ago and I have been manhandling the hatch ever since. The local Sea Ray dealer quoted a many thousand dollar repair. I also must repair the upper track. I will update as job progresses. I can't explain how valuable these posts (even though many years old) were, to my rebuild project.
 
It's great this thread has come alive again! My 1999 24DA has a hatch problem also and I've been watching this and other threads and kbdozz YouTube video all winter trying to figure out how I can fix without tearing down the entire dashboard unit, helm and steering this spring to remove a couple of screws. Horrible design for an assembly that's almost certain to fail during the life of the boat. With mine the nose of the bottom step is rubbing on the cowling making it difficult to close and is scratching the heck out of the nose of the step. If kbdozz sees this or if KubAir knows I have some questions. I don't see how you reached the screws behind the helm assembly holding the bottom track. The top track I understand although difficult and needing a right angle screw bit, but I did see anything on the bottom track screw removal. Help?
 
It's great this thread has come alive again! My 1999 24DA has a hatch problem also and I've been watching this and other threads and kbdozz YouTube video all winter trying to figure out how I can fix without tearing down the entire dashboard unit, helm and steering this spring to remove a couple of screws. Horrible design for an assembly that's almost certain to fail during the life of the boat. With mine the nose of the bottom step is rubbing on the cowling making it difficult to close and is scratching the heck out of the nose of the step. If kbdozz sees this or if KubAir knows I have some questions. I don't see how you reached the screws behind the helm assembly holding the bottom track. The top track I understand although difficult and needing a right angle screw bit, but I did see anything on the bottom track screw removal. Help?
I was able to replace the lower track slider balls and end-caps without drilling holes into the hull. I did drill larger hatch holes in the lower door itself, to replace the inadequate sea ray screws with three thru-bolts and nylon lock-nuts. On my 280DA, the starboard lower track hull screws (3) were accessed thru the fold down door beneath the helm. With the sliding hatch in the closed position, the screws are easily accessible for removal. Three are holes in the lower
 
There are holes in the lower track for seven screws. The middle screw in not accessible in either the open or closed hatch position. The three starboard screws are reached with the hatch closed. The three port screws are accessed with the hatch in the open position. Fortunately the middle (inaccessible) screw in my boat was missing from the factory! The entire lower track is removable with a little difficulty, once all the lower hull screws have been removed, in short order. The balls and end caps are then easily replaced. I did have to trim some excess width off the end caps with a Drexel sanding drum to make them fit inside the lower track.
 
In performing the repairs on my hatch, I noticed that as the softer, factory supplied lower sliding balls and upper sliding blocks become worn, they lose height, which throws the hatch geometry off kilter, and causes the hatch rubbing and scratching problem that has been described in the above thread entries. I believe that replacing the sliders, should help resolve this problem.
 
I will be trying this using your technique on my 280. Wish me luck!
(If this doesn’t work, I will be removing the helm.)
 

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