Official 390 E.C. Thread

If no one responds soon I will check out some measurements this weekend. I think there are still locations on mine.
 
Does anyone out there know where the sling points should be for my boat? Mine have disappeared & I would like to get new ones put back on.

~Ken :smt100

Ken,

Go to the Sea Ray archives at searay.com. Look in the owners manual under chocking for storage. I think that the dimensions given should be very close to the sling dimensions. There are others of us that have this boat that might chime in with something exact. The decals on my boat with the sling location are long gone.
 
I looked in my manual and the measurements for the cradle set up are from the stern to the 1st strap/cradle is 88.5". The dimension from the 1st strap/cradle to the 2nd strap cradle is 205".

This must be correct because these measurements clear the rudders, shafts and thru hull fittings.

I'm going to send Frank Webster an e-mail for confirmation. He ran a 390 for 10 years and if any one knows he does.:thumbsup:

I'll check back.
 
I looked in my manual and the measurements for the cradle set up are from the stern to the 1st strap/cradle is 88.5". The dimension from the 1st strap/cradle to the 2nd strap cradle is 205".

This must be correct because these measurements clear the rudders, shafts and thru hull fittings.

I'm going to send Frank Webster an e-mail for confirmation. He ran a 390 for 10 years and if any one knows he does.:thumbsup:

I'll check back.

Well, this is great information to have. We splashed yesterday and the guys at the marina were in and out of the engine room taking careful measurements to make sure that they didn't put too much lifting pressure on the wrong spot of the hull. I was pleased to see that they took this care. I will wait for Frank's confirmation of your measurements and then I will get some permanent markers affixed to the hull just below the rub rail.

~Ken
 
Got a reply from Frank...

If the dimesions for cradle location are for the factory supplied cradle and there are just 2 given, then those locations are where the slings go.

:thumbsup:
 
Got a reply from Frank...

If the dimesions for cradle location are for the factory supplied cradle and there are just 2 given, then those locations are where the slings go.

:thumbsup:

The purpose for the sling marks are for lift in & out. We just have them block the boat up fore, mid & aft with an additional 6 adjustable boat stands strategically placed to evenly hold the weight.

~Ken
 
The purpose for the sling marks are for lift in & out. We just have them block the boat up fore, mid & aft with an additional 6 adjustable boat stands strategically placed to evenly hold the weight.

~Ken

Ken,

Look at the manual and you will understand...the factory cradle location is the sling location.
 
Ken,

Look at the manual and you will understand...the factory cradle location is the sling location.

Roger that ... makes sense to me. Another problem solved by a typical friendly CSR member. Now I just have to hope that most of my problems are of a minor nature such as this one.

~Ken
 
Changing gears here to a windshield issue. Any ideas as where to source out the black vinyl mouldings that cover up the mounting screws? Besides having that tired look about them, our trims have experienced "major shrinkage" over time and need to be replaced. It will also give me a chance to silicone the heads of the screws to head off any possible leakage problems. There must be a preferred temperature to install these trims as I am sure that expansion/contraction must be allowed for.

~ Ken
 
Contact:

Taylor Made Systems New York
93 South Boulevard
Gloversville, NY 12078
PH: 518-773-0636
FX: 518-773-2919

It believe it is Part #8338950 , they will send you a sample so you can check before you buy, I replaced mine this winter.
 
Contact:

Taylor Made Systems New York
93 South Boulevard
Gloversville, NY 12078
PH: 518-773-0636
FX: 518-773-2919

It believe it is Part #8338950 , they will send you a sample so you can check before you buy, I replaced mine this winter.

Thanx "Ricochet". How did the re & re go? What made you change your mouldings? Did you have water leak problems? Did you seal the screw heads before installing the new trims? Any pics?

~Ken
 
The replacement was easy, I replaced them because they became brittle and the ends snaped off, I did back out some of the screws and installed new sealant, I still am getting a little water inside of the windshield, it must be coming from the window moulding. I ordered enough so that I can replace them at least one more time (and in case I screwed up intstalling). You have to trim the back side of the moulding so that they extend past the grove, you will know what I mean when you remove the old moulding. The temperature when I installed was about 50 degrees during inside winter storage, that was not a problem.
 
The replacement was easy, I replaced them because they became brittle and the ends snaped off, I did back out some of the screws and installed new sealant, I still am getting a little water inside of the windshield, it must be coming from the window moulding. I ordered enough so that I can replace them at least one more time (and in case I screwed up intstalling). You have to trim the back side of the moulding so that they extend past the grove, you will know what I mean when you remove the old moulding. The temperature when I installed was about 50 degrees during inside winter storage, that was not a problem.

Are there many screws to contend with? $$ COST $$ ?? It does not sound like a very complicated fix-it and it really shouldn't take to long to complete.
~Ken
 
There are about 5 or 6 screws on each side in the front and 4 or 5 on the port and starboard side, port and starboard were very tight and I did not back them out. I can not find the reciept, Taylor Made is very helpful by phone for cost. About 2-3 hours of time to install, triming the backside of moulding takes the most time.
 
There are about 5 or 6 screws on each side in the front and 4 or 5 on the port and starboard side, port and starboard were very tight and I did not back them out. I can not find the reciept, Taylor Made is very helpful by phone for cost. About 2-3 hours of time to install, triming the backside of moulding takes the most time.

What worked best for the back-cutting? Olfa knife? Roto-Zip power tool?
 
I need to do my moulding but I dread pulling the old out because it's so brittle. Any tips on getting it out easily?

I've been lucky so far with leaks. The only ones I get are the port windows in the master if I spray a direct blast on them with a hose. Replacing widows/seals on a 390 is a serious project.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,950
Messages
1,422,887
Members
60,933
Latest member
juliediane
Back
Top