whataride
New Member
I have purchased a 2000 410DA diesel. This winter in heated storage I noticed repairs to the bottom right at the area the shafts enter the hull. Is this common??????? Thank You Bruce:huh:
bottom glass repairs
- Thread starter whataride
- Start date
It is probably the lousy job done by the factory.
This image shows the hull around my shaft before I removed the paint, carved out the voids and filled them w/ epoxy.
It was a source of problems year after year until I fixed it this way.
Hull after "real" pressure washing
Shaft w/ paint removed
Hull w/ voids carved away
Voids filled w/ epoxy
This image shows the hull around my shaft before I removed the paint, carved out the voids and filled them w/ epoxy.
It was a source of problems year after year until I fixed it this way.
Hull after "real" pressure washing
Shaft w/ paint removed
Hull w/ voids carved away
Voids filled w/ epoxy
Woody
Well-Known Member
What kind of problems did it cause? Leaks?It is probably the lousy job done by the factory.
This image shows the hull around my shaft before I removed the paint, carved out the voids and filled them w/ epoxy.
It was a source of problems year after year until I fixed it this way.
Hull after "real" pressure washing
Shaft w/ paint removed
Hull w/ voids carved away
Voids filled w/ epoxy
No leaks.
Every time I painted that area small flecks of white gell coat would detach onto the roller.
When I sanded the area down I observed the voids shown in the first image.
Those voids were carved back until solid material was exposed.
The voids were filled w/ West System w/ high-density or high-strength filler.
Every time I painted that area small flecks of white gell coat would detach onto the roller.
When I sanded the area down I observed the voids shown in the first image.
Those voids were carved back until solid material was exposed.
The voids were filled w/ West System w/ high-density or high-strength filler.
- Oct 6, 2006
- 12,153
- Boat Info
- 1996 450DA
- Engines
- 3116 Caterpillars
This is a product of the way some Sea Rays are made and finished. Those we've seen with cracking have been solid hull boats from Merritt Island; the problem does not seem to exist in Palm Coast boats.
It may seem backwards, but the shaft tube is glassed into the hull late in the construction process. After the hull comes out of the mold, an oversized football shaped hole is cut in the bottom, somewhat larger than the diameter of the shaft tube. Next the engine is mounted on the engine bed, the shaft is mounted to the coupler, the tube is then threaded up on the shaft and the strut is added. The alignment is done and the strut shimmed if needed. Last, the fiberglass shaft tube is mounted and glassed into the hull. This process is used because the shaft must be exactly centered in the tube or the seal/packing gland will wear rapidly.
The problem you guys are experienceing is that the process used to fair the hull surface may not be adequate for the long term. Only a very few boats seem to have problems. This defect us not usually considered a structural defect because the tube is usually stuck in place with a "hot-mix" resin/putty for fast setting to hold the tube in place, then the tube is glassed into place from the inside of the boat. Cracking usually occurs because the putty used on the outside is too thick and has a different rate of expansion than the fiberglass to which it is applied.
The right fix is to grind out the putty and lay in new fiberglass cloth and resin ending up with a very thin layer of putty, if any is needed to fair the bottom where the repair is made.
To address the question on cost, unless there is delamination to the hull (very unlikely) this shouldn't be but a 2-3 hour repair in a boat yard with average equipment and average fiberglass skills. With supplies, materials and enviornmental considerations, I would expect a charge of $400-$600 to repair both sides would be reasonable, assuming that you don't remove the shafts from the boat.
It may seem backwards, but the shaft tube is glassed into the hull late in the construction process. After the hull comes out of the mold, an oversized football shaped hole is cut in the bottom, somewhat larger than the diameter of the shaft tube. Next the engine is mounted on the engine bed, the shaft is mounted to the coupler, the tube is then threaded up on the shaft and the strut is added. The alignment is done and the strut shimmed if needed. Last, the fiberglass shaft tube is mounted and glassed into the hull. This process is used because the shaft must be exactly centered in the tube or the seal/packing gland will wear rapidly.
The problem you guys are experienceing is that the process used to fair the hull surface may not be adequate for the long term. Only a very few boats seem to have problems. This defect us not usually considered a structural defect because the tube is usually stuck in place with a "hot-mix" resin/putty for fast setting to hold the tube in place, then the tube is glassed into place from the inside of the boat. Cracking usually occurs because the putty used on the outside is too thick and has a different rate of expansion than the fiberglass to which it is applied.
The right fix is to grind out the putty and lay in new fiberglass cloth and resin ending up with a very thin layer of putty, if any is needed to fair the bottom where the repair is made.
To address the question on cost, unless there is delamination to the hull (very unlikely) this shouldn't be but a 2-3 hour repair in a boat yard with average equipment and average fiberglass skills. With supplies, materials and enviornmental considerations, I would expect a charge of $400-$600 to repair both sides would be reasonable, assuming that you don't remove the shafts from the boat.
chelepop
New Member
Hey Wingless, and all others, I don't mind you helping to answer these fine questions, infact I welcome your input as I do not have all the answers. You all have actually shed some light on other areas of the boats and models to me
Please feel free to add your 2 cents in, as I will when appropriate/confident ))Is this a great country or what??? LOL
quality time
Well-Known Member
- Oct 30, 2007
- 2,360
- Boat Info
- Miss Stress
2006 50' Post
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- Series 60 Detroits
Chelepop - You forgot to answer the original question.:huh:
Last edited:
chelepop
New Member
Aaron, I beg your pardon. I DID NOT in fact forget to answer the original question. I chose not to answer because my forte' is not in lamination (nor with the facility who built the 410's back in 2000.)
Plus by the time I got around to reading this thread, someone else with pics and an explanation/more experienced already helped the member with his question. Don't you worry, if I know how to help I'll try
Plus by the time I got around to reading this thread, someone else with pics and an explanation/more experienced already helped the member with his question. Don't you worry, if I know how to help I'll try
RobF300
Member
- Nov 22, 2006
- 368
- Boat Info
- old and useless
- Engines
- 5.7/alpha
413 Chrysler straight inboard
this is a age old issue, not a new one.
the shafts are installed with thickened resin, just like the "glassed in" exaust ports- both crack over time.
the shafts are installed with thickened resin, just like the "glassed in" exaust ports- both crack over time.
