Official 380 Thread

Pseudomind

Active Member
Jul 1, 2008
2,122
Jacksonville, FL
Boat Info
2011 Hurricane with Magic Tilt Trailer
Engines
115 HP Yamaha Four Stroke
Any ideas, My Raynav 300 GPS, once you can get it turned "ON" tends to work fine, turn it off and you have to repeat this procedure. I have to unscrew and remove all of the front panel screws, 15 in total, disconnect the PWR/NMEA cable, reconnect it and it will then power back on and work normally.

Like I said, "any ideas?"

Thanks

:thumbsup:
 
You need to take it out, tie it to the back of your truck/car on a long rope then drag it around town.

If you search on RN300 or RN 300, you'll find a lot of discussion on this fine piece of Raymarine equipment.
 
Where exactly does one find the zincs on the Model: 7.0 BCGB (5.0 BCGB) & KW gasoline generator

Westerbeke part number
011885 Zinc

I have downloaded the users manual but doing a search does not even find zinc

Never mind I was able to find it but doing a search on the .pdf manual does not list "zinc."


Model: 7.0 BCGB (5.0 BCGB) & KW gasoline generator


Thanks

:thumbsup:
 
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Any 380 owners here have the Rverso oil change system? Would this unit work for my 380 or am I missing something. My marina quotes a price of $763.00, but this add states this unit pred at $519.95 (3 valve) will work, or do I need a four valve, 2 engines + 1 generator + one discharge valve = 4 valve unit or when they talk about valves are they just refering to 2 engines + 1 generator = 3 valve unit

I am also being quoted $640.00 to $800.00 for labor plus an additional $300.00 to $400.00 for hoses and other parts.

Reverso

Anyone have any input about this being an ok ballpark figure?

Thanks

:thumbsup:
 
Ok let's try a different question/tact,

How about windshield washer reservoir location?

From 380 DA Part smanual
Page 26 Item 19 - 681486 ACTUATOR, ROCK BLK W/O LENS ACCY
679332 BODY, ROCK SW SPST MOM
WINDSHIELD WASHER

And Windshield Washer (not shown)
 
Ok let's try a different question/tact,

How about windshield washer reservoir location?

Windshield washers use water from your fresh water holding tank. You have to have the Fresh water circuit breaker on for them to work. There is a selonoid valve on the port side aft of your cockpit fridge/icemaker behind the cabinetry.

In cold environements, don't forget to run AF through them during your winterization process.
 
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Ok let's try a different question/tact,

How about windshield washer reservoir location?

Windshield washers use water from your fresh water holding tank. You have to have the Fresh water circuit breaker on for them to work. There is a selonoid valve on the port side aft of your cockpit fridge/icemaker behind the cabinetry.

In cold environements, don't forget to run AF through them during your winterization process.

Thanks

That explains why I am having such a hard time finding it in the manual

:thumbsup:
 
Questions regarding rear bilge pump. There is about 1/2 inch of water there, it is enough to just be above the lip of the Rule 2000 bilge pu,p impeller base, probably a couple of quarts water at the most

If I turn on helm rear bilge pump the pump will run, but the water level does not go down, so I turn off the helm switch, and next

I get into the bilge area and disconnect the Rule 2000 bilge pump from the floor base, activate the float switch and the impeller is turning. I clamp the unit back together and again activate the float switch, again there is drop in the water level.

I disconnect the drain hose, and from just looking the hose seems to be clear. I activate the float and the Rule 2000 bilge pump,pumps water out of the drain opening, seems to be a pretty good flow rate. I reconnect the hose, and repeat the process and again the water level does not drop.

Yet if I activate the high water pump I watch the water level go down, but it just returns, when I deactivate it. I am guessing this is just draining back down the hose. (I am not talking about that much water, maybe a couple of quarts or a little more). And since both pump drain hoses go up vertically for almost 24 inches, I believe this water is just draining back.

Any ideas? I am going to attempt to run a snake through the rear bilge drain line, but I do not think there is any blockage in it (I stuck my finger in it when I had it disconnected and it feels pretty clean, no gunk adhering to it on the inside

I believe even if the line was blocked I would a least see the appearance of water moving when I activate the pump.

Do these pumps typically have some high rate of pressure when they operate? I know with the line disconnected the water comes out with the appearance of turning on a water spigot at a high force flow rate

Thanks
 
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Spray water into the bilge, and go ahead and clean it out good. Exercise both bilge pumps, insuring that they are working and the float switches are moving freely. Let 'em run for a bit. When they have pumped all that they can, and the water level drops, cut them off. Get that small $29 shop vac from Home Depot and suck out all the remaining water, and the bilge is clean and dry. You can even use a sponge. Works for me.....
 
Getting the water out is not the problem, I am trying to find out if the pump is working correctly. enough pressure, as one pump shows the water level dropping and the rear shows nothing.

The rear like I stated previously, when disconnected from the drain hose shows water pumping out at a pretty good rate, but when connected the water level does not drop while the pump is running, even though the water level is above the impeller housing.:huh:
 
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Sorry, I misunderstood. There is a plastic check valve just above the pump that may be stuck. It's just a ball in a plastic housing that prevents water from flowing back into the bilge from all the way from the outlet. Sometimes these things will freeze and break...don't ask how I know.
 
Sorry, I misunderstood. There is a plastic check valve just above the pump that may be stuck. It's just a ball in a plastic housing that prevents water from flowing back into the bilge from all the way from the outlet. Sometimes these things will freeze and break...don't ask how I know.


Thanks I will look. according to the Sea Ray manuals I have seen my floats are mounted in the wrong location. The high water float should be behind the pump, next to the bulkhead, and my aft bilge pump float is mounted on the about one inch raised up portion of the bilge deck (What the 380 supplement manual calls the engine room floor, page 12-20 of the supplemental manual) in front of the recessed area where the two pumps are located

I do not want to remove all of the water until I get finished testing and then I am going to look and see if the floats were in fact mounted at their correct locations previously. It seems strange their being moved as they are screwed down to the deck.

If you have access or a copy of the supplemental manual you can see what I am referring to, my aft pump switch is on the engine room floor and the emergency high water float is located where the aft pump float switch sholud be located at
 
I have the aft pump, and in the forward section of the bilge there are 2 pumps, one higher than the other. One is controlled by the forward bilge pump switch, and the higher one is automatic.
 
Maybe this will help? My boat pump float layout. All information is in graphic as well as a question. The high water float is located where the aft should be and the aft is on the engine room floor

Maybe I have answered part of my question unknowingly, by using the current set up for the high water float, there is no check valve, so when it stops the water will just flow back down the about 24 inch vertical section of hose :huh:

The same happens when I activate the aft pump float and stop it the water left between the check valve and the pup outlet flows back down that hose :huh:

But, anyway you look at it my floats are mounted in the wrong location, unless this was a Sea Ray change which I am unaware of it being made.

Thanks

:thumbsup:

Bilgepumplayoutdocument.png
 
I'll have to strp back and re-look at my boat, but here's what I think.....the only pump with a check valve should be the lowest pump in the system. Reasoning (I think) that it's OK for the other 2 pumps to drain back into the system, when they cut off, and doing so, will be pumped out by the lowest level pump in the bilge.
 
My float switches are mounted just like yours. The bilge pump will never get all of the water out and yes it will drain back from the hose.
 
My float switches are mounted just like yours. The bilge pump will never get all of the water out and yes it will drain back from the hose.


Like mine? One is on the engine room floor (Aft float) and the high water is between the two pumps?

I do not believe the high water pump has a check valve for when the high water is eventually pumped down the other pump should also be working. The check valve here would make since to stop this pump once the water is out

Perhaps Sea Ray made a change and the manual does not reflect it.

Thanks for the replies from you two.

:thumbsup:
 
Here is a picture from my survey. It shows the 2 bilge pumps. Neither pump gets all the water out. So I vacuum it out, and it stays dry for awhile.


IMG_1126.jpg
 
Here is a picture from my survey. It shows the 2 bilge pumps. Neither pump gets all the water out. So I vacuum it out, and it stays dry for awhile.


IMG_1126.jpg

Thanks a bunch

That is just how mine is also, I have to wonder why they call the rear pump the emergency high water pump and the forward (aft) pump the rear bilge pump. The float on this with it's location would make it seem more appropriate as the emergency high water pump
 
..... There is a plastic check valve just above the pump that may be stuck. It's just a ball in a plastic housing that prevents water from flowing back into the bilge from all the way from the outlet. Sometimes these things will freeze and break....

Are you sure about that. My 380 and my 410 both had/have whale non return valves..... the same that are in the shower sumps. They would look like this:

P7130296.jpg
 

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