420/44 DB Owners Club

The chrome rings twist off. I believe counter clockwise but don't fully remember. You may have to give a little bit of upward pressure.
I had to use the oil filter strap wrench to get one ring off. Turning left to loosen.
 
Just wanted to get your opinions on something I noticed when I first start my engines, the gauges don’t seem to power up until around 1 minute after engine start. No rpm’s no pressures no temp’s no nothing.. Then after that boom it all comes into life..

.. strange
Mine randomly does the same. Now I turn on both engine start switches when I boot up my display then when ready start, and it seems to be fine now.
I thought at one point it had something to do with which motor I started first.
 
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I have one of these for the stateroom and another in the salon: https://www.kisaepower.com/products/sl1204/. I also see they have an upgraded version: https://www.kisaepower.com/products/sw1204/.

I was frustrated with the performance and reliability of a few others small inverters I have tried, but these have been very good over the last four years.

In the stateroom, it runs the TV and DVD player. It was installed in the space behind the TV. For power source, I installed a small breaker/distribution sub-panel in the wall of the closet:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/82...V_DC_Circuit_Breaker_Panel_-_White_4_Position
8272.jpg

It gets power from the lighting circuit and distributes to the inverter, a fan, and a USB charging outlet I added.

The power source is not ideal, although with the changeover to LED lights, not a major problem. The total maximum power is 45W TV + 15W DVD + 25W USB + 4W fan = 89W or about 7.5A @ 12V. From the factory the lighting feed would provide for about 85W in Xenon lighting. The LED bulbs drop that to under 20W. If everything were on, which it extremely unlikely, the max amperage would be less than 9A at typical battery voltages, well below the max rating of the wire. Not a safety concern, and I did push the circuit with a higher AC load in the inverter to see what would happen (no heating of any kind), but voltage drop becomes an issue. The inverter gives a warning of low voltage then kicks off.

In the future, I would like to run a dedicated 6-gauge duplex cable from a new breaker in the main DC panel in the salon to the distribution sub-panel, and replace some of the sub-panel breakers. 20A for the inverter (limiting it's max draw for voltage drop...I think that would be about 3% if the only load, assuming 40' round-trip run) and 3A for the other DC loads, making the max panel draw 29A, which would result in a ~6% drop fully loaded, and way below the max rating (95A+). I looked into this quickly last summer and the main challenge, other than getting the wire fished, is getting the load out of the main DC panel in a "factory" install manner. There are bulkhead connections that will be hard to make use of.
Was initially going to tap into the bow thruster and use a dc to dc converter but then realized that I would have to leave the 24v thruster solenoid on every time we wanted to use the tv. Ended up tapping into the light circuit with a small fuse block. Similar to you lights are all led and tv and Roku draws less than 5 amps total. Have considered a fan but can't find a spot that I wouldn't hit my head in the middle of the night so using battery operated ones for now.
 
The previous owner, LG111 (Mark) said to start the Starboard engine first as it has the instrumentation and helm electrical on that side of the system. I wonder if starting the Port engine first would make it pause like that.

On the 380, I liked to start and stop the engines so that the hours were always exactly the same. Minor OCD thing!

I wonder if turning the switch on the Starboard engine to the on without starting it would light up the dash and gauges.
I’m going out tomorrow so I’ll select the starboard start switch to on (without starting it) to see if the gauges and vv power up

Was concerned it may have something to do with faulty alternators. Seem to remember a previous thread saying you’d never know if one or both have failed..
 
I’m going out tomorrow so I’ll select the starboard start switch to on (without starting it) to see if the gauges and vv power up

Was concerned it may have something to do with faulty alternators. Seem to remember a previous thread saying you’d never know if one or both have failed..
Mine randomly does the same. Now I turn on both engine start switches when I boot up my display then when ready start, and it seems to be fine now.
I thought at one point it had something to do with which motor I started first.

Thanks. Your method worked a treat.
 
Just wanted to get your opinions on something I noticed when I first start my engines, the gauges don’t seem to power up until around 1 minute after engine start. No rpm’s no pressures no temp’s no nothing.. Then after that boom it all comes into life..

.. strange
Normal. The gauges are called SysLink and are digital. The power and data signal comes from the Vessel View. The Vessel View first has to wake up then the gauges will come alive. Either engine's ignition switch will boot up the VV. So it doesn't really matter which you start first. If one of the ignition switches will not start up the VV then someone has removed the "Wake" wire harness from the system. I always first turn both ignition switches on and let the system boot up before cranking them up. This way the VV will display the engines' health (poll all of the sensors) when they start. Of course, in an emergency where you need to get the engines started you can crank them right up - the VV and gauges will catch up.
 
Just thought I’d share with you all a picture of my boat with the transom module moved back. It actually looks better than I thought.
 

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Has anyone replaced the hardwood flooring in the galley and by dinette? I was not sure if factory flooring was nailed down or just glued. Might be better to replace rather than refinish.
 
Windless on 2004 420 wont work. I checked the bilge back wall fuses and no windless reset.
Any Ideas? I am sure its at fuse but after inspecting the whole back firewall- nothing.
 

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Windless on 2004 420 wont work. I checked the bilge back wall fuses and no windless reset.
Any Ideas? I am sure its at fuse but after inspecting the whole back firewall- nothing.

I don't recall on DAs. But, DBs have the breaker inside the main solenoids panel (big grey box) in the ER. 420DBs have it right under/behind the stars to the ER. This is the panel where you have main engines and generator solenoids. If you have the manual close by, look for the location of this control box.
I just scanned the link posted by AEO and sure enough page 6.5 shows the "Latching Solenoids" fig 6.5.3
 
Problem is with the Deisel , I cant get my fat ass in their very close... So I have to grab randomly behind engine to reset.
Do these breakers pull out...? push down? There are no instructions on any manual on the exact procedure to reset( blindly) ie' Ican feel in the area but cant not get my head around to see as I reach.....
Thoughts.... I know what it looks like ... but push up?.. pull out? push under?
 
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There is also a automotive type fuse on the contact coil in the gray box. I think it’s 70amp 12 volt. It blew on me once. I couldn’t find the problem with the windless. My son googled it and found the solution.
 
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I don't recall on DAs. But, DBs have the breaker inside the main solenoids panel (big grey box) in the ER. 420DBs have it right under/behind the stars to the ER. This is the panel where you have main engines and generator solenoids. If you have the manual close by, look for the location of this control box.
I just scanned the link posted by AEO and sure enough page 6.5 shows the "Latching Solenoids" fig 6.5.3

If you go here you can get your original brochure and spec sheet: https://owners-resources.searayweb.com/recent-models/owners-resources/recent-models/page.aspx/pageid/160625/recent-models-
helper.html?year=2021


I’ve attached an 05’ and 08’
 

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Mark, Yes we replaced the flooring in those areas. The dinette portion comes out as one pc, may have some silicone holding it in place & also bolts & screws at base of table leg. Dinette step silicone only. Galley is all on one pc of plywood with a few screws coming up from holds underneath, if I remember correctly I had to break the floor into pcs to get it out of that area.
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I have a small grey box in ER next to the big black breaker box. I checked the breaker 100 amp windless and no power to either side.? WOUld you look at switch first or is there another recommendation
 
I have a small grey box in ER next to the big black breaker box. I checked the breaker 100 amp windless and no power to either side.? WOUld you look at switch first or is there another recommendation
On my boat (a 44 Sedan Bridge, not a Sundancer), the feed side of the windlass breaker comes from the load side of the port battery solenoid (meaning the port batteries must be energized to feed power to the windlass breaker).

If the port battery solenoid is energized, and the port batteries are connected and not completely dead, it seems pretty much impossible for the windlass breaker to not receive power. The switch would energize the windlass solenoid, which is after the windlass breaker in the circuit. As such, if there is no power at the breaker, the switch is not the problem, unless on your boat the breaker and the solenoid order are reversed.

So, tracing the circuit: port battery->port battery solenoid->100A windlass breaker->windlass solenoid->windlass.

My advice would be to work your way from the windlass solenoid towards the battery, looking for voltage at each point in the circuit. Make sure you have a good ground.

It may be worth asking these questions in the thread for your particular boat, the 420 DA thread: 420 DA Thread | Club Sea Ray.

Final note: it's windlass, not windless! :)
 
Windless on 2004 420 wont work. I checked the bilge back wall fuses and no windless reset.
Any Ideas? I am sure its at fuse but after inspecting the whole back firewall- nothing.

On my 420, there was a fusible link on the engine room firewall in front of the starboard engine. If memory serves, it was 200 amps. It is not resettable. If it "blows", well, actually meltes, it has to be replaced.

Here is a picture for reference purposes:
https://www.amazon.com/Inline-holde...ocphy=9008247&hvtargid=pla-473313356386&psc=1

Jaybeaux
 
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