420/44 DB Owners Club

Having a look at getting the flybridge Isenglas done.

Has anybody figured out a clever way to put the side "smilies" up to to the radar arch vs rolling them? I think I would like to have them flat against the ceiling.

Cheers!
 
Has anyone installed a small inverter in the forward state room for the television? Thinking I can tap into the bow thruster for power but that's 24 volts. Also would like to tuck away the inverter so that we are not bothered by the fan noise. Anyone come up with a clever location/solution?
 
Irie308 said:
Has anyone installed a small inverter in the forward state room for the television? Thinking I can tap into the bow thruster for power but that's 24 volts. Also would like to tuck away the inverter so that we are not bothered by the fan noise. Anyone come up with a clever location/solution?
Click to expand...
I have a small Victron Phoenix inverter that operates my boat's camera security system. Victron makes a small 24 volt 250 watt inverter that would work well and they are inexpensive. Camera system up and running consumes 25 watts - well within the inverter capability. I'm not sure there is even a fan on this inverter.
https://www.victronenergy.com/inverters/phoenix-inverter-vedirect-250va-800va
 
Irie308 said:
Has anyone installed a small inverter in the forward state room for the television? Thinking I can tap into the bow thruster for power but that's 24 volts. Also would like to tuck away the inverter so that we are not bothered by the fan noise. Anyone come up with a clever location/solution?
Click to expand...

Why not use a DC-DC converter for the tv? No need for an inverter then. Most newer tv's are 19v or the like and Amazon has a plethora of DC to DC converters.
 
SKybolt said:
Why not use a DC-DC converter for the tv? No need for an inverter then. Most newer tv's are 19v or the like and Amazon has a plethora of DC to DC converters.
Click to expand...
Actually didn't think of this. And much cheaper too!
 
Bruce SEA 993 said:
Having a look at getting the flybridge Isenglas done.

Has anybody figured out a clever way to put the side "smilies" up to to the radar arch vs rolling them? I think I would like to have them flat against the ceiling.

Cheers!
Click to expand...
I did full polycarbonate with no smile windows and the side windows clip up to the arch with the same style pin snap like it attaches to the wind screen as for the front and rear those two use the elastic loops like the rear canvas uses to secure.
With the polycarbonate and no smile windows I can’t overlap windows when pulled up or the will get scratched but I can open the sides and rear together or front and rear. One other thing that was done is they added an eyebrow zipper with a screen at the top of the front canvas and just lowered the poly window a couple inches and it works great to let air come through.
I also got rid of all the seems in the rear bridge canvas which gives a beautiful panoramic view now.
I’ll look for my post from when done and post a link.
 
Thanks, your poly looks great!

I am thinking of the SnapIt bungie type to hold the smilies up to the arch but now leaning towards a length of bungie along the bottom edge of the smilie that I could stretch a little to the hooks on the arch. As I will be using Isenglas on the sides and at smilies, I want multiple attach points so it does not droop. The big curved corners will be Makrolon polycarbonite in 60 mil.
 
@Bruce SEA 993 we have polycarbonate with smiles that are removable. I know you're using isinglass but i have to think if you run with the fronts open that side panel snapped to the arch is going to slap quite a bit. If I ran at speed with both my front and rear open the rear one slaps quite a bit and i have to take it down completely. Just something to be aware of.
 
Bruce SEA 993 said:
Thanks, your poly looks great!

I am thinking of the SnapIt bungie type to hold the smilies up to the arch but now leaning towards a length of bungie along the bottom edge of the smilie that I could stretch a little to the hooks on the arch. As I will be using Isenglas on the sides and at smilies, I want multiple attach points so it does not droop. The big curved corners will be Makrolon polycarbonite in 60 mil.
Click to expand...
We have 3 attachment points at each window to support when open so no sag
 
Corner Window.jpg
Thanks!

We do not have an opening at the forward part of the flybridge...we have a glass insert with a wiper mounted in it. The curved corners are fixed. I just added a picture...you can really see the wrinkles. The glass insert shows up and the lack of front ventilation. So far, we haven't needed it.

A vent like the 380 Sundancer had would be nice but not needed up here in the Northwest all that often. The sides can be open and maybe the back and no flapping.
 
NorCalRobert said:
If you replace the fixture please post a link to what you get.
Click to expand...
Ended up modifying the existing fixture to fit a lumitec mirage. Nice bright dimable white with the red and blue light option.

21E2B3CC-D4C5-45EE-8EC5-C98295656E48.jpeg E5A69234-8FDA-4437-B70C-D33B151A2854.jpeg 9FFB3F94-B5FC-431F-BAD5-55175572CEB1.jpeg 2753B4B6-77C0-4383-AFF3-F9307F692FA5.jpeg
 
Just wanted to get your opinions on something I noticed when I first start my engines, the gauges don’t seem to power up until around 1 minute after engine start. No rpm’s no pressures no temp’s no nothing.. Then after that boom it all comes into life..

.. strange
 
Irie308 said:
Has anyone installed a small inverter in the forward state room for the television? Thinking I can tap into the bow thruster for power but that's 24 volts. Also would like to tuck away the inverter so that we are not bothered by the fan noise. Anyone come up with a clever location/solution?
Click to expand...
I have one of these for the stateroom and another in the salon: https://www.kisaepower.com/products/sl1204/. I also see they have an upgraded version: https://www.kisaepower.com/products/sw1204/.

I was frustrated with the performance and reliability of a few others small inverters I have tried, but these have been very good over the last four years.

In the stateroom, it runs the TV and DVD player. It was installed in the space behind the TV. For power source, I installed a small breaker/distribution sub-panel in the wall of the closet:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/82...V_DC_Circuit_Breaker_Panel_-_White_4_Position
8272.jpg

It gets power from the lighting circuit and distributes to the inverter, a fan, and a USB charging outlet I added.

The power source is not ideal, although with the changeover to LED lights, not a major problem. The total maximum power is 45W TV + 15W DVD + 25W USB + 4W fan = 89W or about 7.5A @ 12V. From the factory the lighting feed would provide for about 85W in Xenon lighting. The LED bulbs drop that to under 20W. If everything were on, which it extremely unlikely, the max amperage would be less than 9A at typical battery voltages, well below the max rating of the wire. Not a safety concern, and I did push the circuit with a higher AC load in the inverter to see what would happen (no heating of any kind), but voltage drop becomes an issue. The inverter gives a warning of low voltage then kicks off.

In the future, I would like to run a dedicated 6-gauge duplex cable from a new breaker in the main DC panel in the salon to the distribution sub-panel, and replace some of the sub-panel breakers. 20A for the inverter (limiting it's max draw for voltage drop...I think that would be about 3% if the only load, assuming 40' round-trip run) and 3A for the other DC loads, making the max panel draw 29A, which would result in a ~6% drop fully loaded, and way below the max rating (95A+). I looked into this quickly last summer and the main challenge, other than getting the wire fished, is getting the load out of the main DC panel in a "factory" install manner. There are bulkhead connections that will be hard to make use of.
 
saopm said:
How do the light covers come off? do they twist off or just pry down. I’ve tried a couple of times but they don’t budge.
Click to expand...
The chrome rings twist off. I believe counter clockwise but don't fully remember. You may have to give a little bit of upward pressure.
 
AEO said:
Just wanted to get your opinions on something I noticed when I first start my engines, the gauges don’t seem to power up until around 1 minute after engine start. No rpm’s no pressures no temp’s no nothing.. Then after that boom it all comes into life..

.. strange
Click to expand...
I usually wait for vessel view to fully power up then all my guages begin working.
 
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AEO said:
Just wanted to get your opinions on something I noticed when I first start my engines, the gauges don’t seem to power up until around 1 minute after engine start. No rpm’s no pressures no temp’s no nothing.. Then after that boom it all comes into life..

.. strange
Click to expand...

The previous owner, LG111 (Mark) said to start the Starboard engine first as it has the instrumentation and helm electrical on that side of the system. I wonder if starting the Port engine first would make it pause like that.

On the 380, I liked to start and stop the engines so that the hours were always exactly the same. Minor OCD thing!

I wonder if turning the switch on the Starboard engine to the on without starting it would light up the dash and gauges.
 
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I have been very happy with my Starlink RV dish. Right now it is mounted in a spare fishing rod holder (Rocket Launcher) up on the bow...about 5 feet from the anchor. I have a dead Furuno radar dome that I gutted out and plan to put the Starlink dish in it and mount it up on the radar mount where the little KVH is. It will make it difficult to remove so I am kind of rethinking that set up.

So here is a question...is there an easy way to route the cable from the deck on the Starboard side into the chain locker and then aft to a place where I can place the wireless Starlink router? I bet there is a way but does it involve disassembling the entire Starboard interior? I know there are cables up there for the windless and a water line for the washdown. I am thinking the router would be placed in the Starboard couch storage. There is 110 there. Not sure about 12V DC though. Oh, there is 12V DC in the galley cabinet at the center of the boat...ish.

Right now I just have the cable running out the side of the flybridge canvas along the gutter and under the windshield sun shade and up to the dish. The router hangs out nicely by the 110V plug. If we are on the hook, I have a 300W inverter that powers it from the lighter socket.

Open to other placements and solutions. The Starlink group on Facybook is not really showing me anything that would work. I'm going to search on CSR to see what is there. Edit: Not much there on search. One guy with a 58 put his in a 24 inch KVH.
 
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