40 sedan bridge forum

We had our upholstery done last year. Came out pretty well.
 

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Our guest stateroom and guest head both struggle to heat and cool with little air flow to each. It appears that the salon a/c unit provides the heat/air to both.

Everywhere else on the boat heats and cools extremely well. I’m wondering if anyone else has experienced this, and if so, what did they to to remedy the issue?
 
randerson said:
Our guest stateroom and guest head both struggle to heat and cool with little air flow to each. It appears that the salon a/c unit provides the heat/air to both.

Everywhere else on the boat heats and cools extremely well. I’m wondering if anyone else has experienced this, and if so, what did they to to remedy the issue?
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Those areas are not cooled by the salon unit. Both staterooms and both heads are cooled by a 12,000 BTU unit located under the master stateroom bed. Lift up the mattress and remove the panel to see it.
 
Boston-boater said:
We had our upholstery done last year. Came out pretty well.
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This looks great! Your choice of materials really warms up the bridge and gives it a more refined look. Not that it looks bad stock. But your choice (particularly for the helm seat) is a bit more refined than factory stock. Nice job!
 
The new five piece cushion version is laid out. Waiting on 30” wide foam to arrive to cut the two corners. Factory foam is 3” where you sit and 3.5” in the front 6 inches to raise your knees a bit and keep you from sliding forward. Seats are so low that’s not a problem. So I’m going with 4” foam all the way around. At a firmer 44 ILD. The factory foam appears to be 35 ILD, maybe even softer. We just bottom out when we sit in it. Still waiting on backorder vinyl. Just delayed it again to 3/3. Originally was 2/10. Going to cancel it today and order retail. Will pay more but will actually get it.
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scooper321 said:
You are amazing. We want to get our upper helm seating re-done but there's no way we'd tackle it ourselves. Fortunately, we have a good shop here. We are thinking of extending that rear bolster downward, to block off most of the opening between it and the seat. One of our dogs is a complete scaredy cat and when we ride we drop the table down to be the sun platform and he gets on there and plants himself in the rear corner of the seating area. Just waiting to hit a nice wave and for him to slip backwards and through! Since we run a lot with the rear window open, that could be a catastrophe!
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Here's something we did a few years ago. Didn't like the idea of losing anything sitting on those seats being blown off the back underway. I drew up a full size template and plotted it out, and handed it to my upholstery guy. The template is attached if you would like to do something similar. You can have it plotted out full size on 24x36 at a local reprographic company that prints "blueprints".
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Planning to schedule a haulout and bottom job in the next couple of days. Surprisingly our last one was 2012, and it's held up well in our lake. Previous owner didn't take the boat out much, and it is ablative. Had the waterline touched up a few years ago. Wish we had Florida haul out and bottom job prices. I'm looking at $5K. Think I want a hard paint this time. It will be soda/sand blasted, any blisters corrected, etc. Marina wants to use Interlux Bottomkote NT. I was thinking Interlux Ultra-kote. Seems like a gazillion choices. We're freshwater. Anybody have an opinion on what has worked well, and currently available? Cost of the paint seems irrelevant given the cost to paint and haul.
 
Drafter said:
Planning to schedule a haulout and bottom job in the next couple of days. Surprisingly our last one was 2012, and it's held up well in our lake. Previous owner didn't take the boat out much, and it is ablative. Had the waterline touched up a few years ago. Wish we had Florida haul out and bottom job prices. I'm looking at $5K. Think I want a hard paint this time. It will be soda/sand blasted, any blisters corrected, etc. Marina wants to use Interlux Bottomkote NT. I was thinking Interlux Ultra-kote. Seems like a gazillion choices. We're freshwater. Anybody have an opinion on what has worked well, and currently available? Cost of the paint seems irrelevant given the cost to paint and haul.
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To strip, prep, apply a barrier coat, and three coats of bottom paint - $5K is very reasonable in Florida. My boat needs the same this spring and it's going to be around $9K.
I have the hard anti-fouling on it now - we have been using Pettit Trinidad SR and Trinidad Pro with very good results but I'm going back to an ablative bottom paint. I say that because every spring when I do the annual haulout I have to put a coat of bottom paint on or sand it because it dries out. Hard anti-fouling paints must stay in the water - letting it dry will kill the chemistry. Ablative paints don't have this problem. But I keep the boat in saltwater and here we have a significant growth problem with barnacles, tube worms, and algae.
 
ttmott said:
To strip, prep, apply a barrier coat, and three coats of bottom paint - $5K is very reasonable in Florida. My boat needs the same this spring and it's going to be around $9K.
I have the hard anti-fouling on it now - we have been using Pettit Trinidad SR and Trinidad Pro with very good results but I'm going back to an ablative bottom paint. I say that because every spring when I do the annual haulout I have to put a coat of bottom paint on or sand it because it dries out. Hard anti-fouling paints must stay in the water - letting it dry will kill the chemistry. Ablative paints don't have this problem. But I keep the boat in saltwater and here we have a significant growth problem with barnacles, tube worms, and algae.
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I had my boat soda blasted 2 years ago, a few blisters repaired, new barrier coat (Interlux Barrier) and new ablative (Interlux Micron CSC). Total bill was $6500, with $2k of that being the soda blasting. About $1500 was paint - so it's a nontrivial part of the bill. So $5K seems quite reasonable - are they including the blocking and haul out in that? Note?: my prices were before inflation started rearing its' head. I boat in a mix salt/fresh brine (Chesapeake Bay) so an ablative is needed to control growth for me.
 
Drafter said:
Here's something we did a few years ago. Didn't like the idea of losing anything sitting on those seats being blown off the back underway. I drew up a full size template and plotted it out, and handed it to my upholstery guy. The template is attached if you would like to do something similar. You can have it plotted out full size on 24x36 at a local reprographic company that prints "blueprints". View attachment 140381
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Thanks for the idea! This is definitely something to look at a bit further!
 
ttmott said:
To strip, prep, apply a barrier coat, and three coats of bottom paint - $5K is very reasonable in Florida. My boat needs the same this spring and it's going to be around $9K.
I have the hard anti-fouling on it now - we have been using Pettit Trinidad SR and Trinidad Pro with very good results but I'm going back to an ablative bottom paint. I say that because every spring when I do the annual haulout I have to put a coat of bottom paint on or sand it because it dries out. Hard anti-fouling paints must stay in the water - letting it dry will kill the chemistry. Ablative paints don't have this problem. But I keep the boat in saltwater and here we have a significant growth problem with barnacles, tube worms, and algae.
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Thank you ttmott. The $5K is haul, strip, and two coats with no barrier coat. We don't haul out every year. The boat stays in the water until something needs repaired or replaced. I plan to have whoever does the work put a 3rd coat on.
scooper321 said:
I had my boat soda blasted 2 years ago, a few blisters repaired, new barrier coat (Interlux Barrier) and new ablative (Interlux Micron CSC). Total bill was $6500, with $2k of that being the soda blasting. About $1500 was paint - so it's a nontrivial part of the bill. So $5K seems quite reasonable - are they including the blocking and haul out in that? Note?: my prices were before inflation started rearing its' head. I boat in a mix salt/fresh brine (Chesapeake Bay) so an ablative is needed to control growth for me.
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Thank you scooper. Got another quote this morning from a guy that's helped me over the years. He's $100 a foot with the haulout, so I'm down to $4K. The other place (Marine Max) is high on everything. They had $137 for me to deliver the boat to their dock! My stock props are 22x24 four blades as are probably most. Found a pair of cupped 22X23's on a SeaRay facebook page from a guy in Louisiana with the same boat that has since been sold. He said he was pretty particular about his props, and loved this setup. Bought them for what it would have cost to refurbish my existing, and these are done, so this gives me spare set. He races offshore cats for Team Dubai, and is a Formula One World Champion for Team Qatar, so figured he knew what he was talking about. Looking forward to giving them a shot. Greatly appreciate your advice.
 
Drafter said:
Thank you ttmott. The $5K is haul, strip, and two coats with no barrier coat. We don't haul out every year. The boat stays in the water until something needs repaired or replaced. I plan to have whoever does the work put a 3rd coat on.
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You may want to rethink the no barrier coat decision. Fiberglass and the gel coat are NOT waterproof. The hull will absorb water if there’s no protection (barrier) preventing it. That’s the main purpose of barrier coat - not for growth prevention but to serve as a moisture barrier between your gel coat and the water. It also serves as a primer, to help the bottom paint adhere to the hull. I don’t believe bottom paints provide the water barrier that the barrier coat does (although I only have experience with ablative paints; maybe hard paints are different?). My two cents: I don’t think you want to skip the barrier coat.
 
Looking for all new ablative bottom paint this spring. Some large flakes came off exposing the barrier coat, when marina did mid season short haul and bottom wash last year.
Question....Why add more barrier coats to previous barrier coats vs one coat of primer?
 
5 piece, 4” cushion system ready to cover with vinyl. Vinyl supposed to arrive today. Notice center cushion is about 1” shifted to the right of cushion center. That’s just the way it worked out to have all the visual lines line up. Vinyl is finally supposed to arrive today so hopefully this time next week I’ll have a fully finished bridge picture to post. I’m really looking forward to only have to remove that small center cushion to get into the aft seat storage compartment.
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Njlarry said:
Looking for all new ablative bottom paint this spring. Some large flakes came off exposing the barrier coat, when marina did mid season short haul and bottom wash last year.
Question....Why add more barrier coats to previous barrier coats vs one coat of primer?
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If your barrier coats are in good shape you shouldn't need to add more. This is why the barrier coat is different color than the bottom paint AND different color from the hull. So you can hopefully easily tell if you need to add coats or not.
 
scooper321 said:
If your barrier coats are in good shape you shouldn't need to add more. This is why the barrier coat is different color than the bottom paint AND different color from the hull. So you can hopefully easily tell if you need to add coats or not.
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If the bottom is to be blasted clean like @Drafter is doing then the barrier coat will be gone or compromised and need re-application. I would say if large chunks of the bottom paint are coming off then blasting to remove all is the best path.
 
We lost an underwater exhaust outlet on our 2002 Sedan Bridge 400. How critical is it to get replaced? We have no idea when we lost it and were likely been cruising all last season without it. It will be a few thousand to replace it and is it really necessary?
 

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Van-Boater said:
We lost an underwater exhaust outlet on our 2002 Sedan Bridge 400. How critical is it to get replaced? We have no idea when we lost it and were likely been cruising all last season without it. It will be a few thousand to replace it and is it really necessary?
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Get it replaced ASAP! I hit a log and took off my starboard side a few years back. I added boost and exhaust temp to my boat previous to this happening. Normal running temps were always around 850 and when the exhaust broke off it went to 1200. I hauled out as soon as I got home and with the exhaust replaced temps were back to 850.
 
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