Looking for some advice

Steve Cellar

New Member
May 27, 2022
19
Ashland, Ohio
Boat Info
1989 Sundancer 250 da
Engines
7.4L Mercruiser with Bravo 1 outdrive
Not my first boat, but first "older" boat. I have an 89 Sea Ray Sundancer 250 DA. It has a Mercuiser 7.4 w/ Bravo 1 out-drive. I purchased the boat this past year, but have been restoring it cosmetically in a few areas and generally cleaning it up. It was not in the water this year except for a water test, but now winterized (I live in Ohio). In the spring I'm planning on changing the oil and filter, plugs, lower unit oil, and anodes to start with. Gonna buy the necessary tools and supplies over the winter so I'm ready.
The gentleman I purchased the boat from was a mechanic and he did a lot of the general maintenance himself on the boat. The boat currently runs great and starts easy...I just want to keep it that way.
I'm curious:
- what type of oil evacuator you guys use as I've seen all types and read good and bad about most of them. Hand pump vs. battery.....brand..cost, experience....etc.
- should I use a 25w-40 synthetic, or no need?
- any advise on filter
- what brand of plugs to use
Up to this point I was going to get the anodes from BoatZincs unless someone has a better suggestion. The current anodes are basically gone. I'm third owner of the boat. The guy I bought it from trailered it every time, but I'll be water slipping boat.
Thanks for any input.
Steve
 
A few suggestions:

1. Consider replacing the water pump impeller, unless you know for certain it was replaced within the past two years.
2. Talk to people who keep their boats wet slipped at the location where you will, to identify what metal you want for the sacrificial anodes (aluminum, magnesium, or zinc).
3. Check that the MerCathode system is working, or if you don't have one consider adding that to the boat.
4. Make sure that all of the continuity wires are connected on the outdrive, and if there is any question buy a ground wire continuity kit and install them, as they have a tendency to break off and sometimes the mechanics don't bother with them. https://www.michiganmotorz.com/mercruiser-continuity-circuit-kit
5. Many people consider Navalloy to be the highest quality sacrifical anodes. https://performancemetals.com/collections/mercrusier-sterndrive-anodes

I'm sure others will have more suggestions, but hope these help.
 
I use an electric pump on the oil. Had a small elect pump for years that I pumped oil into a bucket. It crapped out so I bought a west marine unit with the pump on the top of the bucket. Works well, but it’s top heavy so you need to be careful or you’ll spill everything.

No need for synthetic. Not sure it was even around in the 80s.

I’d use the quicksilver/ mercury oil filters as they are OEM. Or the NAPA gold.

Fresh water Ohio I’d go with magnesium anodes from boat zincs.
 
The bucket is def too heavy, drive me crazy. I ended up putting it in a milk crate, problem solved

I use an electric pump on the oil. Had a small elect pump for years that I pumped oil into a bucket. It crapped out so I bought a west marine unit with the pump on the top of the bucket. Works well, but it’s top heavy so you need to be careful or you’ll spill everything.

No need for synthetic. Not sure it was even around in the 80s.

I’d use the quicksilver/ mercury oil filters as they are OEM. Or the NAPA gold.

Fresh water Ohio I’d go with magnesium anodes from boat zincs.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I really appreciate these forums where you can cut through all the nonsense usually and get right to common sense, tried and true experience. Time to start ordering stuff...
Thanks, Steve
 
+1 on the 12v pump and the milk crate as @Chris-380 said.

With regard to letting the oil sit in the engine over the winter, that is a bad idea. There are acids and the like that get in the oil and letting that sit in the engine over the winter is not a good idea.

With that year engine, I would only put in 15-40 shell rotella. Had great success with that in mine over the years, when I had the 340. Crusader called for straight 40 back then.
 
Completely agree with Sky. I use straight 30 Rottela
 
Why do Marina's change all the oils before winterizing the boat at the yard , hundreds of them and I have done that for the last 20 years
 
+1 on the 12v pump and the milk crate as @Chris-380 said.

With regard to letting the oil sit in the engine over the winter, that is a bad idea. There are acids and the like that get in the oil and letting that sit in the engine over the winter is not a good idea.

With that year engine, I would only put in 15-40 shell rotella. Had great success with that in mine over the years, when I had the 340. Crusader called for straight 40 back then.
Sounds like the boat is already on the hard and winterized. I think he’ll be fine with an oil change in the spring. Doesn’t really have a choice so don’t panic him. :)
 
My oil engine oil and now drive oil we're just changed prior to winterization why would they do that if I had to redo it in the spring
 
My oil engine oil and now drive oil we're just changed prior to winterization why would they do that if I had to redo it in the spring

All engine oil should be changed in the fall before they are winterized. Drive/Transmission can be in the spring.
 
Sounds like the boat is already on the hard and winterized. I think he’ll be fine with an oil change in the spring. Doesn’t really have a choice so don’t panic him. :)

I understood that when I posted. I was just clarifying when the oil should be changed and why. But that is funny, wasn't trying to panic anyone.
 
Acid in the oil? That's like an old wives tale isn't it?
So the acid is eating your bearings every time you turn your engine off during the season?
 
I always done it before winter, I'm with scofflaw,
 
You should change it so it doesn't sit with acids and moisture in it. Always before winter
 
Acid in the oil? That's like an old wives tale isn't it?
So the acid is eating your bearings every time you turn your engine off during the season?

It's more like contaminates (carbon, oxidation etc.) that strip down the integrity of the base oil and can act like a mild acid. I am speaking from a two stroke diesel perspective, but the same exist's for all engines. It's not a wives tale, it's real. But you need to understand it isn't fast acting, but it does exist and will shorten the life of your engine.
 
Thanks guys. I appreciate the input....and no I'm not panicked. I've had other I/O's in the past and usually did change everything in the fall, but just not this year. If not the fall, for sure in the spring before everything got going again, but I've never had a problem with oil being left in over the winter...old or fresh. I never actually heard that or even considered that before, but it's food for thought. Hey, we all have different experience levels and stories. That's why we're on here. That's why I'M on here anyways. Always looking to glean new info.
 

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