40 sedan bridge forum

Njlarry said:
Anyone know what the rotery switch does? The light turns red when turned but nothing happens and stereo volume does not change.
Also what does the cable connector at the bottom do?
Thanks.
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I can’t tell anything from your picture but the factory put a phone jack on that bottom outlet. There’s one in the master stateroom also. Back when these boats were built there were these things called land lines used for phone calls. Some of us have repurposed them. I replaced mine with additional 120v outlets and I reused the phone wires running through the boat to carry other signals not related to telephones.
 
I am considering selling my 400 DB. Diesels are around 1160 hours each with new transmission on port side and new bottom job, new zincs as well. Just did a 4-day trip up to Kentucky Dam and it ran great. My wife had a stroke a year and a half ago and doesn't really enjoy the boat anymore not to mention her issues with climbing aboard and getting back off. Anybody want to take a shot on what it should sell for?
 
Bartlett Bob said:
I am considering selling my 400 DB. Diesels are around 1160 hours each with new transmission on port side and new bottom job, new zincs as well. Just did a 4-day trip up to Kentucky Dam and it ran great. My wife had a stroke a year and a half ago and doesn't really enjoy the boat anymore not to mention her issues with climbing aboard and getting back off. Anybody want to take a shot on what it should sell for?
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That’s hard to say without knowing a lot more about the maintenance history and the condition of the boat. But if you’ve done the 1000 hour service, and have records to show it, and have other maintenance records to show that you don’t have a lot of deferred maintenance that the new owner will have to do, that will help a lot. If the hull and decks are in great shape with no moisture, if the canvas is new or at least in good shape, if the interior is in great shape, that helps, too. You don’t say whether you have a bow thruster, and you don’t mention what year the boat is. Although given that it has Cummins engines, I’m assuming it’s a 2000+ model. Are you the original owner? I’m no Broker, just another happy owner, but I’m thinking you could be looking at anywhere from $170k to over $200k if it comes through a boat and engine survey both without any significant issues. Of course it could be much less based on the condition of some of the things I mentioned above. I would speak with a reputable broker and have them pull up comps for you: both what is on the market now, and what has sold in the past year or two.
 
Thanks for that and, yes, I wasn't very specific was I. Maybe it's because I can't make up my mind on selling or keeping, I really like the boat. It is a 1997 with cat 3116s boat is very clean and has a dry, clean engine room. everything works except the chart plotter and radar but with the GPS the plotter was left in to prevent a hole in the dash. The auto pilot just quit this weekend and I haven't had time to see what the issue there is. It has a ray dome, but the display was removed to make room for the GPS before I bought it. I bought it after the 1000 hour turned over, so unsure about that. I am the third owner. The canvas is pretty good, but the isinglass needs cleaning and polishing, I ordered the Plastix and plan to do that pretty quick
 
Not that you asked, but, if you are not ready to sell you probably shouldn't. I've been there before and I was a difficult/challenging seller to work with, I assume.

When I am buying a boat, canvas/electronics is not a deal breaker or a reason to deduct/add value. I am looking for a mechanically sound boat that's been serviced/maintained with a good hull.

You could always pay for a survey now to get a feel for how your boat compares with the market.
 
just looking at options since she is not very comfortable with cruising anymore. As you can see from the picture, I like the sides removed in the summer. Real pain to replace though.
 
Bartlett Bob said:
Thanks for that and, yes, I wasn't very specific was I. Maybe it's because I can't make up my mind on selling or keeping, I really like the boat. It is a 1997 with cat 3116s boat is very clean and has a dry, clean engine room. everything works except the chart plotter and radar but with the GPS the plotter was left in to prevent a hole in the dash. The auto pilot just quit this weekend and I haven't had time to see what the issue there is. It has a ray dome, but the display was removed to make room for the GPS before I bought it. I bought it after the 1000 hour turned over, so unsure about that. I am the third owner. The canvas is pretty good, but the isinglass needs cleaning and polishing, I ordered the Plastix and plan to do that pretty quick
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There is not a required 1,000 hour service. Per Frank Webster, there should be a service at 250 hours to set the injectors and then again at 2,000 hours.
 
mrsrobinson said:
Not that you asked, but, if you are not ready to sell you probably shouldn't. I've been there before and I was a difficult/challenging seller to work with, I assume.

When I am buying a boat, canvas/electronics is not a deal breaker or a reason to deduct/add value. I am looking for a mechanically sound boat that's been serviced/maintained with a good hull.

You could always pay for a survey now to get a feel for how your boat compares with the market.
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Canvas and electronics aren’t a deal breaker but yes, they are a reason for deducting value if they don’t work. It sounds like the electronics, in particular, don’t just need to be upgraded but repaired/replaced for usability. That’s probably $10k at least. I would agree not a deduction if they worked, however.
 
Good point, I would also say all else equal between two boats, the one with working or upgraded electronics and newer canvas would get my first offer.
 
JASON P GRIFFITH said:
As my3sons said. Couple notes...

Check for a drain on your muffler on the Gen as well. Mine has one but the previous owner may have installed. I purchased the pre-made caps from Defender (TRAC FLUSH CAP) I wasn't thinking of making one for 5 bucks. Wish I did.

I fill the 5 gallon bucket and have a couple more gallons in a port-o-flush Jr. Turn that is feeding the five gallon bucket. I connect it to a bilge light so I can turn it on from the transom and start the engines. Stops me from having to run all over the place pouring more ETC. I also drain the aftercoolers after as well because whey even leave liquid in there if you don't need to right?

Also don't forget about the AC unit. That will take a couple gallons as well and it does not like to Prime so the Port-o-flush comes in handy there as well.

Another note is for the engines use the engine pink /purple/blue antifreeze, not the basic RV water system stuff for your engines. It has lubricating properties that help protect seals and stuff I think its worth the couple more bucks.

Another thing I do is after running the antifreeze through the toilets I lube the seal with some PAM so it does not get dry and brittle from the antifreeze and cold winter months.View attachment 75291
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so I am preparing to winterize my own engines this year and thought I would dust off Jason‘s post from long ago. It’s a good post and I am referring to it as I plan the process. In fact, I am sitting here writing this in the parking lot of my Home Depot. I went inside to price out the pieces I would need to build my own flush cap. I found that a 3 inch male adapter, with a 3 inch to 1 1/2 inch reducer, with a small run of 3 inch PVC to connect the two, came out to about $35. And that doesn’t include any hose to go from the 1 1/2 inch into the bucket. Or clamps. The Trac flush cap for my Argo-2000 strainers is about $56 at defender marine. So I’m not sure building my own flush cap is cost effective or worth the hassle. There are several posts on here about people making their own. I would love to see pictures!
 
AEC466F0-D0E4-4757-AA1C-309BE356C138.jpeg

winterize fitting on the left. The camlock coupling is not necessary, just a nice luxury to make up the hose connection because back then I was working and had several of them in my tool box.
The 3 flush fittings I made up before we did the loop for fresh water flushing. Since then SeaBoard Marine is marketing some that are almost identical. I like the big winterize fitting because I can push 6 gallons of pink through the raw water system in about 10 seconds convincing me that all the water is pushed out.
 
my3sons said:
View attachment 136507
winterize fitting on the left. The camlock coupling is not necessary, just a nice luxury to make up the hose connection because back then I was working and had several of them in my tool box.
The 3 flush fittings I made up before we did the loop for fresh water flushing. Since then SeaBoard Marine is marketing some that are almost identical. I like the big winterize fitting because I can push 6 gallons of pink through the raw water system in about 10 seconds convincing me that all the water is pushed out.
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for the fresh water flush fitting, what sort of hose do you use? I imagine a garden hose would collapse during flushing or winterizing.
 
Had the joy of taking apart a transom door today. Metal trim ring is screwed to door. Vinyl covered panel is Christmas trees over top that into the door. A wood lip all the way around provides anchoring if screws and Christmas trees. On this one all that wood is rotted. I am going to have to figure out how to replace it. Will need new Christmas trees. These are brittle and breaking easily.
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3C4201D6-20AC-4820-A086-0294F491D692.jpeg
A875BF6E-76EB-455B-8F50-A8BED37A6BB7.jpeg
 
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