420/44 DB Owners Club

I use the wolverine oil pan heater from Seaboard. Oddly enough the one on my port motor died twice. Followed install instructions to the letter both units stopped working after a few months...

Years ago I installed 3 wolverine heaters (both engines + genny). They only lasted for about 1.5-2 years. The one on the genny worked longer. I wouldn't buy them again, unless going with a timer to explicitly control the operation time.
 
...I have never measured it, but I swear is seems like the ER on my 420DA has more cubic feet than when we had the 44DB...

I never measured it as well, but I believe that the whole point of V-drives is to push the bulkhead into ER for maximizing the cabin space. As you recall, the DB bulkhead is right by the galley.
 
Looks like I am going to go with the Xtreme 800 Watt unit.

Thanks for all of the input!

Cheers!
 
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I have a big marina project underway and am going to be around most of the fall. I am chair of the Harbor Committee and we have an experienced marina builder that is part of the community and he is in charge of the actual construction. The committee will be volunteering on all of the support functions. We are dredging the harbor and installing 5 new docks.

So, anyhow, I will be around a lot so I have time for my projects.

Next one up in the queue is a new VHF radio. The cord is about gone on the NS 100.

I am debating between the IC M424G iCom and the Standard Horizon GX2400. I want built in GPS.

Any one have experience between the two?

Also, I want a "black box" type of remote radio but iCom is so back ordered that I gave up on getting one. I was wondering if anyone has installed one where the Auto pilot is. I have a replacement AP that is smaller and there is a plate there to cover it. I could move the AP closer to the helm...under the edge of the wheel. It would be a little more convenient that reaching over to the navigators side of things.

Helm.jpg
 
Here is an update on the washlet toilet seat install.

It fits really well in the area. It does not have the fixed handle on the right side like some do.

Toilet Seat (2).jpg


Here are the controls. Very simple as it is not an electric seat with heated seat and heated water.

Toilet Controls (2).jpg


The plumbing fitting that comes with the seat has an odd size unless you are connecting it onto a regular household toilet. Those are 7/8 thread "ball cock" threads. So I cut the hose and inserted a tee with 1/2 inch barb fittings for the hose and 3/8 adapter for the hose to the seat that came with it.

Toilet Plumbing (2).jpg


The paper towel is below to signal any leaks.

I am used to the heated water at home so it will be interesting how much of a shock this is.

We have really nice, for us, fall weather so we are going out on Sunday for 3 or 4 days.

Cheers!
 

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AEO, this is a non electric unit. Water only otherwise it would have to be on an inverter circuit.

There is not any inverter outlets close by and I feel we can rough it!
 
AEO, this is a non electric unit. Water only otherwise it would have to be on an inverter circuit.

There is not any inverter outlets close by and I feel we can rough it!

yeah, sorry. I missed that important detail in your post. I quickly tried to delete my comment but you were too quick.

I guess you could perhaps find a way to tap in some warm water in winter ;-)
 
AEO, this is a non electric unit. Water only otherwise it would have to be on an inverter circuit.

There is not any inverter outlets close by and I feel we can rough it!


yeah, sorry. I missed that important detail in your post. I quickly tried to delete my comment but you were too quick.

I guess you could perhaps find a way to tap in some warm water in winter ;-)

I do very much like your plumbing
AEO, this is a non electric unit. Water only otherwise it would have to be on an inverter circuit.

There is not any inverter outlets close by and I feel we can rough it!
AEO, this is a non electric unit. Water only otherwise it would have to be on an inverter circuit.

There is not any inverter outlets close by and I feel we can rough it!
You did a great job with the plumbing - I will follow your lead.

Mine are electric so I’ll need to install either a single inverter for both toilets or 2 inverters one for each.
 
I, originally wanted some nylon or FRP fittings for their lighter weight so it did not put a load on the hose as it is just hanging there without support. As it turns out, the blue hose is stiff enough so it does not matter.
 
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I'm looking for thoughts on inverters for the 420/44 boats. I would like to add solar to my boat this fall/winter, as well as an inverter system.
Should I look at an inverter only vs inverter/charger, considering the boat already has dedicated chargers for the 12 volt and for the 24 volt systems?
Should I look at 12 volt inverter connected to main batteries or should I look at 24 volt inverter connected to the thruster batteries?
Thanks
 
I'm looking for thoughts on inverters for the 420/44 boats. I would like to add solar to my boat this fall/winter, as well as an inverter system.
Should I look at an inverter only vs inverter/charger, considering the boat already has dedicated chargers for the 12 volt and for the 24 volt systems?
Should I look at 12 volt inverter connected to main batteries or should I look at 24 volt inverter connected to the thruster batteries?
Thanks
I have a 12V inverter charger. If I were to redo it ( and I have thought about it), I would go with a 24V system from the thruster bank. The wire/connections are much cheaper/easier to work with. Also a built in Automatic Transfer Switch is a must have in my book.

Look at Victron, they have great equipment.
 
Planning to start work on my raw water cooling side. First I'm going to flush with barnacle buster then remove the aftercooler for cleaning. I've done the flush in the past on land but this time it will be in water. My question is what's the best way to cap off the cooling line to the shafts. While out of the water I just plug the hose but wondering best way to cap the hose barb at shafts. I see there is a small plastic cap attached but not sure if trust that to stop water from coming in when I take the hose off. Any thoughts? Was thinking of getting a small hose with a plug already installed and using that.
 
I have a 12V inverter charger. If I were to redo it ( and I have thought about it), I would go with a 24V system from the thruster bank. The wire/connections are much cheaper/easier to work with. Also a built in Automatic Transfer Switch is a must have in my book.

Look at Victron, they have great equipment.
I’ll look into the 24volt set up. I think member Tom C here told me his is using the thruster batteries as well. And Victron is the brand I’d like to use.
Anybody else have input I’d appreciate it. Thanks
 
Planning to start work on my raw water cooling side. First I'm going to flush with barnacle buster then remove the aftercooler for cleaning. I've done the flush in the past on land but this time it will be in water. My question is what's the best way to cap off the cooling line to the shafts. While out of the water I just plug the hose but wondering best way to cap the hose barb at shafts. I see there is a small plastic cap attached but not sure if trust that to stop water from coming in when I take the hose off. Any thoughts? Was thinking of getting a small hose with a plug already installed and using that.
I did my flush with boat in the water, and I put small bolt in the hoses and clamped off, and the barbs I used piece of tubing with bolt clamped and that worked fine.
 
I did my flush with boat in the water, and I put small bolt in the hoses and clamped off, and the barbs I used piece of tubing with bolt clamped and that worked fine.
That's what I'm thinking. Thanks
 
Last year I installed a 1200 watt inverter for the TV and blue ray player. I used the 24 volt system as I never use the bow thruster.
I’ll look into the 24volt set up. I think member Tom C here told me his is using the thruster batteries as well. And Victron is the brand I’d like to use.
Anybody else have input I’d appreciate it. Thanks
 
yeah, sorry. I missed that important detail in your post. I quickly tried to delete my comment but you were too quick.

I guess you could perhaps find a way to tap in some warm water in winter ;-)
we flush with antifreeze in winter and use electric space heaters for cabin. no issues.
 
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I’ll look into the 24volt set up. I think member Tom C here told me his is using the thruster batteries as well. And Victron is the brand I’d like to use.
Anybody else have input I’d appreciate it. Thanks
What do you want to power with an inverter? Do you know the maximum current and duration needed?
Regarding the solar cells - It's an investment for not; you'll never get enough acreage to make a difference in charging within a reasonable timeline. Let's say you were able to install 600 watts of cells on the boat which on the roof you will be around 60% efficient on a sunny day which is an effective 360 watts which is 15 amps at best and probably 12 amps at the batteries. Peeing in the ocean, so to speak.
Inverter and Charger or Inverter/charger - there are two camps on that where separate provides somewhat a level of isolation and redundancy but combined provides a level of automation that is really nice. The reliability of the Victron Inverter/Chargers is very good so risk is somewhat reduced to ensure you can charge the batteries. The generator is required in either case however. You still have the engine's alternators also if using those battery banks.
 
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Update! I was able to source the SSTrim ring from Pompanette in Tampa. Reach out to Marty Barnet at mbarnett@pompanette.com
The part # is GMISC-1 4660SS0 G516 fixed ext ring. $100 plus tax and shipping. Your welcome!!!!
I now have the trim piece the backing plate and the original window, however damaged for sale. I went in a different direction and purchased the Bomar replacement option with opening functionality. I will let everything go for $200 plus shipping. I’m into the singular stainless trim piece for 150 and you cannot source the backing plate because they don’t make them anymore. See pictures attached
 

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I now have the trim piece the backing plate and the original window, however damaged for sale. I went in a different direction and purchased the Bomar replacement option with opening functionality. I will let everything go for $200 plus shipping. I’m into the singular stainless trim piece for 150 and you cannot source the backing plate because they don’t make them anymore. See pictures attached
I was considering upgrading this portal to an opening version. I assume you are happy with the qualify of the new hardware?
 

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