58 Sedan Bridge Official Thread

SEA RAY SYSTEMS MONITOR

Ours stopped working sometime in mid- to late-May, possibly coincident with an unrelated electronic installation... so it might actually just be inadvertently disconnected somewhere.

I've seen several useful posts here on CSR with updated monitoring solutions, but I hope to not have to go there just now...

I have "recycled the circuit breaker" per owner's manual. Nada. I've located a disconnected unidentified red (red/vio?) and black wire pair with connectors that could be associated with the Systems Monitor -- using the Systems Monitor Schematic in the manual for guesswork -- underneath the helm. And that's where all that electronics installation work happened. Not sure if the connectors are 75A style, and haven't found an obvious place to connect them.

I suspect my next best step is to test for power at the Monitor.

So what happens when I remove all the screws holding the overhead mounting fascia (aka "gauge panel," in the owner's manual) that holds the engine displays, systems monitor, fuel gauges, and rudder indicator? Does the whole fascia -- along with all those displays and instruments -- come crashing down on the dash?

Or is it maybe hinged, perhaps like the AC/DC panel in the saloon?

Or...?

-Chris


Some additional info here:
http://clubsearay.com/index.php?thr...vailable-at-marine-max-brick-to-order.110932/

Probably useful to compare to Tom's replacement approach here:
http://clubsearay.com/index.php?thr...nd-improve-the-sea-ray-systems-monitor.91270/
In post #9, he mention his hardware cost was about $1200.

-Chris
 
Some additional info here:
http://clubsearay.com/index.php?thr...vailable-at-marine-max-brick-to-order.110932/

Probably useful to compare to Tom's replacement approach here:
http://clubsearay.com/index.php?thr...nd-improve-the-sea-ray-systems-monitor.91270/
In post #9, he mention his hardware cost was about $1200.

-Chris

I went with the Maretron as I knew it would last longer term. The problem is they have so much cool stuff that once you have an N2k backbone in the bilge you can easily drop another few boat bucks to monitor everything!
 
I just l
WASHER/DRYER REPLACEMENT

I did replace it and from what I remember the whole door frame comes out and the washer/dryer slid out easily. I bought the attached model from lowes and tipped the drivers to bring it to the hallway and I did the rest. Not a difficult replacement

Robert, did you replace? What with? And how did get access to pull the old out/put the new in? Looks like maybe the trim might unscrew for removal? Your thoughts?

-Chris[/Q
WASHER/DRYER REPLACEMENT



Robert, did you replace? What with? And how did get access to pull the old out/put the new in? Looks like maybe the trim might unscrew for removal? Your thoughts?

-Chris
 
Since the DA & Sedan hulls are the same I thought that I'd throw out a concern that can be easily mitigated -
A while back I had a fresh water hose bust to the side of the generator. This hose directed full flow of water to the rear of the bilge - right above the stern thruster. The stern thruster sits in a low pocket that does not drain. The water in my case filled the cavity where the stern thruster sits and submerged the stern thruster motor & ruined it. Since installing a new thruster motor, I also added a small bilge pump to this area to evacuate any water that may find this area in the future. This small addition could save you a thruster motor in the unlikely event it gets water flow from somewhere.

good call this happened to me as we well and I also heard of another 58db owner have his stern thruster burn up the back of his boat.
 

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My fresh water pump was running for a few seconds about every minute today so I went to the manifold and shut each feed off until the pump shut off completely. It turned out that there is a leak somewhere in the water line to the kitchen sink. Despite not finding the actual leak yet has anyone else had this sort of experience and where I can access that water line. There was no leak under the sink, manifold, or pump.
 
I did replace it and from what I remember the whole door frame comes out and the washer/dryer slid out easily. I bought the attached model from lowes and tipped the drivers to bring it to the hallway and I did the rest. Not a difficult replacement

Access to the side and back of the washer/dryer is from the bunk room a panel pulls off

Thanks, that helps. I was a bit intimidated by the door frame...

-Chris
 
My fresh water pump was running for a few seconds about every minute today so I went to the manifold and shut each feed off until the pump shut off completely. It turned out that there is a leak somewhere in the water line to the kitchen sink. Despite not finding the actual leak yet has anyone else had this sort of experience and where I can access that water line. There was no leak under the sink, manifold, or pump.

I haven't traced the whole line, but there's an access panel to the galley faucet underneath the sink faucet. There's also a shut-off valve there for the waterline to the galley freezer's icemaker.

There's room for a '57 Chevy back there, although I can't get my shoulders through. Looks like some of the waterline routing should be traceable, though, and then maybe you can pick up more clues at the manifold end.

-Chris
 
I haven't traced the whole line, but there's an access panel to the galley faucet underneath the sink faucet. There's also a shut-off valve there for the waterline to the galley freezer's icemaker.

There's room for a '57 Chevy back there, although I can't get my shoulders through. Looks like some of the waterline routing should be traceable, though, and then maybe you can pick up more clues at the manifold end.

-Chris
The bridge icemaker and sink line run off that as well.
 
That helps tremendously I bet that’s where the issue is the bridge sink might have been left on. You just saved me hours of troubleshooting thank you very much.
Also, our anchor wash down has to be OFF real tight or it drips and the pump runs every 20 mins or so.

yes I’ve had the bridge sink slightly on to cause that. Like when you dump ice in the sink and it bumps into the valve
 
Also, our anchor wash down has to be OFF real tight or it drips and the pump runs every 20 mins or so.

yes I’ve had the bridge sink slightly on to cause that. Like when you dump ice in the sink and it bumps into the valve
That is exactly what happened before I left the boat I emptied the ice bin in the sink and I’m sure the faucet is open.
 
Do you have the all–in- one “wrinkler“ unit, or a stacked unit?
All in one wrinkle machine that requires steaming after the clothes come out. I never run the combo cycle I think the clothes come out less wrinkled when you wash them then add some dryer sheets and run the dryer mode separately and don’t let them over dry take the clothes out a little early and let them air dry on a hanger as it will cut down on the wrinkles which equals less time steaming. I bring my nice clothes to a wash and fold or cleaners when the wife isn’t on board.
 
I can’t wait to look again to see if I have that removable panel in the bunk room behind the wrinkler. I swear I’ve looked before and didn’t see one.
 
I can’t wait to look again to see if I have that removable panel in the bunk room behind the wrinkler. I swear I’ve looked before and didn’t see one.
If I was on the boat I’d take a pic but it’s a big access panel probably 3’x3’ held on by the same latches as the closet doors. Could be a pain in the ass lining them back up when putting back on but it’s the only way to access the back of the wrinkle unit.
 
If I was on the boat I’d take a pic but it’s a big access panel probably 3’x3’ held on by the same latches as the closet doors.

A pic would be great. Pretty sure I don't have one like that. And I'm on the boat right now, no latches in sight...

Perhaps yours is a mod made by a previous owner? In any case, sounds nifty...

-Chris
 
We have the stacked and our panel is small and held in by 4 screws. Mainly to get to hoses and shut off.

Ke
 

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