Either of you have pictures of the pitting you are referring? I assume this is a salt environment issue? M
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I don’t have a pic but yes, it is typical salt water corrosion on the power coated aluminumEither of you have pictures of the pitting you are referring? I assume this is a salt environment issue? M
I had the same flaking of the powder coating. Took them to my local powder coating shop and they matched it right up and re coated them for $75 bucks each. If you paint over the powder coat it will continue to delaminate and you have a bigger mess. They have to be sand or walnut blasted and then I guess you could paint but I chose to powder coat again.yes, it is good to know. Mine are starting to flake a bit as well. Thanks for sharing.
Sorry no pictures here either. I also had some scratches and overall corroded hinges so I chose the replacement route. They turned out perfect. Not cheap but perfect. I also had them make me a door for under the seat also. Had no access and water and dirt always pool in this corner so I wanted to be able to clean it better.Either of you have pictures of the pitting you are referring? I assume this is a salt environment issue? M
Look at the Mantus S2. Great strong swivel.Any thoughts if the factory chain is 3/8 for a swivel?
Thanks. Already ordered!Look at the Mantus S2. Great strong swivel.
I use this cap as well. I still had issues with getting the pump to prime. I used to have to take the hose clamps off and crack the line to get the pump to prime. That made a mess so I put a tee in the line with a shut off so that I can easily crack the line open to let the pressure out. Now it is very easy to get it to prime.I use this with great success on the ac and the gen. No need for pump either as the bucket in the cockpit gravity feeds the pink. Not sure if it would fit your strainer.
Trac Ecological 1285-B FLUSHcap - 2.5" (Medium) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C04HAN...t_i_CDT06MCD0MBMGEX9S2KD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use this cap as well. I still had issues with getting the pump to prime. I used to have to take the hose clamps off and crack the line to get the pump to prime. That made a mess so I put a tee in the line with a shut off so that I can easily crack the line open to let the pressure out. Now it is very easy to get it to prime.
No, just 1 of them. I don’t know which one I put the tee on but I don’t think it matters. They all T off the pump manifold so just getting the pressure from behind the pump allows it to get fluid to it much easier. Once the pump is primed, it stays primed as I switch each individual unit on and off.Thanks Jeremy- which line did you put a T in? Each of the hoses coming out of the Pumps going to the A/C units?
Are you asking if anyone changed the drains in the mufflers or the mounts on the genny? I drain my mufflers each fall before running antifreeze through the mains when I am winterizing so that I don’t have diluted water in the mufflers in the winter.There is a drain plug at the bottom of the rear end of each engine muffler. I was back there the other day looking for a way to add some generator vibration isolators and those plugs look rusted and leaking. Has anyone looked at theirs and replaced? Tough area to get to.
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Sorry, confusing; while I was doing one thing, I noticed another - the muffler drain plugs.Are you asking if anyone changed the drains in the mufflers or the mounts on the genny? I drain my mufflers each fall before running antifreeze through the mains when I am winterizing so that I don’t have diluted water in the mufflers in the winter.
They are just a SS bolt screwed into the fiberglass muffler. There is a hole in the fiberglass that they either tapped or the bolt was self tapping. The bolts have an o-ring on them but mine were leaking as well when I bought the boat so I wrap the threads with Teflon tape before I put them back in and they haven’t leaked since I started doing that.Sorry, confusing; while I was doing one thing, I noticed another - the muffler drain plugs.
So, you have those drain plugs accessed each season. What are they? Size, material, and threading? I've got to get in there and change them.
Ok, Thanks!They are just a SS bolt screwed into the fiberglass muffler. There is a hole in the fiberglass that they either tapped or the bolt was self tapping. The bolts have an o-ring on them but mine were leaking as well when I bought the boat so I wrap the threads with Teflon tape before I put them back in and they haven’t leaked since I started doing that.
My memory is terrible but I believe it is 7/16 bolt head so 1/4” threads. I remember them being coarse threads.Ok, Thanks!
Standard straight thread bolt - do you know what size it is? A 9/16-inch wrench fitting the head would be a 3/8" bolt for example.
My memory is terrible but I believe it is 7/16 bolt head so 1/4” threads. I remember them being coarse threads.