Thinking of a bridge remodel

Strypes said:
Those seats look awesome!
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I am really happy with the colors, I was hoping the charcoal would not clash with the trim on the panel but with the grays and black they seem to compliment one another, along with the carbonite Aqua Mat it should be fine. One day I may redo the settees but they are in excellent condition at the moment.
Now I just need to finish the cabinetry in the galley where I relocated the ice maker in the Dishwasher space. I found a perfect stain match.
CD
 
Carpet fitting day! I used the existing carpet as a pattern, cut the Aquamat 1 inch larger than the pattern and then final cut it in place. I took it home and wrestled it through my binding attachment on my machine and tomorrow I’ll fit it for snaps and bolt the seats down permanently.
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For anyone thinking about going with Corinthian Marine flooring, I looked into pricing at 10 bucks a square foot for a completed mat. That would put my bridge project carpet a north of $800.
I found on their site, a clearance on remnants in partial rolls. I ordered two 12 foot long, 8.5 foot wide rolls including shipping to Ca for $499. After purchasing a roll of matching binding I am into my bridge carpet for $300 all in. If you don’t have to ability to bind it your self a local carpet place can for less than $100. The second roll will do my boarding platform and steps.
 
I have been contemplating that for some time actually. The deck of the bridge is a 1 inch cored FRP and below that is the ceiling of the cabin assembly made from 1 inch fiberglass laminated plywood. I decided to just use 3 1/2 inch stainless 5/16 inch lag bolts through the deck and into the plywood. I am bolting the pedestals right on top of the carpet since I don't anticipate removing it regularly. I really don't like the look of carpet cut around the bases of seats with channels cut to the edge of the carpet. I generally don't like the idea of lag bolting the seats down but don't see much in the way of options. I am thinking of installing anchor lugs with machine thread studs and using SS acorn nuts to hold the pedestals down if I find that I end up removing the seats to remove the carpet routinely. I wanted to install some sort of threaded insert in the dwck but Carver uses some sort of fiber core and not plywood so there is not enough structure to accept a threaded insert.
CD
 
If I can give a bit from the school of hard knocks here?
The carpet will not give a ridged foundation for the seat pedestals. That little area gets quite a bit of leverage put against it and the bolts will eventually pull through and the seats will be loose. If I could input here - I would cut some 1/2-inch aluminum disks just slightly larger than the seat mounting flange then drill and tap for those seat pedestal bolts in the aluminum plate. Then inside of that bolt pattern are the bolts that go through the deck. That plate gets bedded with an adhesive to the deck. With this arrangement it is easy to unscrew the seats yet not need access underneath to get to the through bolts.
With this you "could" run the carpet over the mounting plate but I think you'll find everything needs to be connected to solid surfaces....
Tom
 
I agree with Tom's comment above. The carpet will act like a soft spacer and allow flex in the seating.

As for the carpet, you do not need edge slits. You just need a little space around the mount base. Separate the lower base from the seat when installing base and then drop carpet over it. The put the seat back onto the base mount tube.

-Kevin
 
If I might add one more suggestion and my experience. Holding it down with velcro tabs is much neater and works just as good as the snaps. Corinthian sewed one side of the velcro to the back of my cockpit carpet in our current boat and when I did the cockpit, steps, and bridge of the 44DB. It all held up perfectly on the 44 for the 4 years we had it and it is doing well currently. Easy to pull up, wash the deck, and replace. Since you have a machine, you could attach your own. Just my opinion…

Bennett
 
Seating arrangement looks great for happy hour and evening sunsets.
 
Carpediem44DB said:
The deck of the bridge is a 1 inch cored FRP and below that is the ceiling of the cabin assembly made from 1 inch fiberglass laminated plywood. I decided to just use 3 1/2 inch stainless 5/16 inch lag bolts through the deck and into the plywood. . . . I generally don't like the idea of lag bolting the seats down but don't see much in the way of options. I am thinking of installing anchor lugs with machine thread studs and using SS acorn nuts to hold the pedestals down if I find that I end up removing the seats to remove the carpet routinely. I wanted to install some sort of threaded insert in the dwck but Carver uses some sort of fiber core and not plywood so there is not enough structure to accept a threaded insert.
CD
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You might want to consider if tee nuts would do the job. They don't add depth and can be epoxied in place, which would make it a strong through-bolted installation but still easy to remove the bolts when you want without losing the nuts on the other side.

https://www.boltdepot.com/T-Nuts_Stainless_steel_18-8.aspx
 
ttmott said:
If I can give a bit from the school of hard knocks here?
The carpet will not give a ridged foundation for the seat pedestals. That little area gets quite a bit of leverage put against it and the bolts will eventually pull through and the seats will be loose. If I could input here - I would cut some 1/2-inch aluminum disks just slightly larger than the seat mounting flange then drill and tap for those seat pedestal bolts in the aluminum plate. Then inside of that bolt pattern are the bolts that go through the deck. That plate gets bedded with an adhesive to the deck. With this arrangement it is easy to unscrew the seats yet not need access underneath to get to the through bolts.
With this you "could" run the carpet over the mounting plate but I think you'll find everything needs to be connected to solid surfaces....
Tom
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Tom, I appreciate the input for sure. The larger base plate concept was actually part of my original plan because I originally thought that both layers that make up the deck structure were the fiber cored FRP and with no access from the bottom, unless I take down the salon headliner, would not give anchor bolts anything to hold to. I figured adhering a larger threaded plate would be the solution. After doing some experimentation with various anchoring systems I decided simple lag bolts would suffice. Upon further consideration though I am liking the plate idea better. I went with the Agua-Mat with the felt backing so it is thin and much denser than the Aqua loc backing so I was comfortable that the seats would be stable enough.
Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it as well as everyone else's ideas and experience. The transformation of the space is quite remarkable. The aft deck used to be my space of choice to relax but now I will most likely be hiding out in the penthouse:)
Carpe Diem
 
lawndoctor said:
You might want to consider if tee nuts would do the job. They don't add depth and can be epoxied in place, which would make it a strong through-bolted installation but still easy to remove the bolts when you want without losing the nuts on the other side.

https://www.boltdepot.com/T-Nuts_Stainless_steel_18-8.aspx
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That was part of the original thinking as well, but I have no access to the underside. I considered cement anchor nuts too.
CD
 
bbwhitejr said:
If I might add one more suggestion and my experience. Holding it down with velcro tabs is much neater and works just as good as the snaps. Corinthian sewed one side of the velcro to the back of my cockpit carpet in our current boat and when I did the cockpit, steps, and bridge of the 44DB. It all held up perfectly on the 44 for the 4 years we had it and it is doing well currently. Easy to pull up, wash the deck, and replace. Since you have a machine, you could attach your own. Just my opinion…

Bennett
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Benne tt, the carpet is stil sitting on my sewing table and I have a roll of velcro, so I may just go that route, I assume you used the self-adhesive pads on the deck or did you screw tabs down? My bridge stays pretty dry due to the hardscape top so I am thinking the self adhesive may hold up just fine. Thanks for the input. I have a good snap installation tool but was not looking forward to installing more snaps this week. I just finished an enclosure on a 21 foot Trophy and I am all snapped outo_O
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I have one more project to enclosure project to finish and then i am taking a break from doing canvas work for others, It has put a big dent in the time available to get other much needed projects done on the Trevi.
 
Carpediem44DB said:
Benne tt, the carpet is stil sitting on my sewing table and I have a roll of velcro, so I may just go that route, I assume you used the self-adhesive pads on the deck or did you screw tabs down? My bridge stays pretty dry due to the hardscape top so I am thinking the self adhesive may hold up just fine. Thanks for the input. I have a good snap installation tool but was not looking forward to installing more snaps this week. I just finished an enclosure on a 21 foot Trophy and I am all snapped outo_O
View attachment 119506 View attachment 119507 View attachment 119508
I have one more project to enclosure project to finish and then i am taking a break from doing canvas work for others, It has put a big dent in the time available to get other much needed projects done on the Trevi.
Click to expand...

Good looking work!

Yes, adhesive backing on the deck and never had one pull up. Even in the cockpit of the 44 that got wet frequently in the summer. They are about 2”x2” tabs. One day if they do pull up, easy to replace and eliminates the snaps.

Bennett
 
Carpediem44DB said:
That was part of the original thinking as well, but I have no access to the underside. I considered cement anchor nuts too.
CD
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Thought you did, misread your post. In that situation my next go-to is epoxying stainless threaded inserts in place. I usually get mine from Global Industrial. Sounds like you already had a similar idea.
 
bbwhitejr said:
Good looking work!

Yes, adhesive backing on the deck and never had one pull up. Even in the cockpit of the 44 that got wet frequently in the summer. They are about 2”x2” tabs. One day if they do pull up, easy to replace and eliminates the snaps.

Bennett
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Thanks for the tip Bennett, since I have the felt back, the higher end industrial version of self-stick Velcro will stick to both sides without sewing. I sewed one in but did not like to see the stitching on aqua weave pattern. Plus sewing 2 inch squares on an 8 X 10 carpet sounds easy but it is quite the wrestling match!
 
Carpediem44DB said:
Thanks for the tip Bennett, since I have the felt back, the higher end industrial version of self-stick Velcro will stick to both sides without sewing. I sewed one in but did not like to see the stitching on aqua weave pattern. Plus sewing 2 inch squares on an 8 X 10 carpet sounds easy but it is quite the wrestling match!
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They are spaced around the perimeter maybe every 2’ and closer in more “critical” areas. I have never looked at how it was sewn, but the threads do not show on the top side. I am sure your idea will work fine. The carpet is heavy enough that I had it quite a while before I even stuck it down and it really did not move. I also have the carbonite color. Can’t wait to see your finished product.

Bennett
 
bbwhitejr said:
They are spaced around the perimeter maybe every 2’ and closer in more “critical” areas. I have never looked at how it was sewn, but the threads do not show on the top side. I am sure your idea will work fine. The carpet is heavy enough that I had it quite a while before I even stuck it down and it really did not move. I also have the carbonite color. Can’t wait to see your finished product.

Bennett
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I am going to get some of the rolled Velcro to hold down a couple of stretches on the edge that are a little wavy. I am happy with it for what I have in it as my first DIY carpet binding project. I won't be adding carpet fabrication to my list of fabrication services however.
Rusty
 
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i finished fabricating the aqua mat for the boarding platform today. Really cleaned up the look. It covers up all of the access plates for the davit I removed and the scars left behind. Now I’ll order more to do the aft deck and be done with the upgrade list for now. Time to get going on the wash, cut, buff and polish. We are having a dry and warm February so I’ll take advantage of the weather and get an early start.
CD
 
I used snaps on the outside steps and carpet on the deck but Velcro on the steps and bridge sole. At transitioning speed the swim deck is awash so I did not want to trust the Velcro. I am even putting in a couple of screws with washers for insurance.
 
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