@WetPleasure … I like the look of that drive shower…especially if it cools the top cap and just doesn’t run down the sides…. Haven’t seen that before
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Nope, what I'm talking about isn't reversion though that is an issue with these. It's the exhaust pulses, a similar but separate issue. They have resonators that go online when using thru transom exhaust that help break up the harmonics that cause this. I'll try to search and find the link to the article. It's not just a simple case of water getting sucked back when both valves are open.That is "Reversion" and specifically caused by the lobe overlap in a camshaft. Overlap is that ramp down on the exhaust cam lobe and ramp up on the intake lobe creating a situation where both the intake and exhaust valves are open in a cylinder. The piston has already started it's downward stroke to pull fresh air in from the intake but as the exhaust valve is also open it also draws from the exhaust system. The loping chopity chop sound of an engine at idle with high lift / duration cams is actually caused by exhaust gas contamination in the intake charge. Another down side for street cars and pleasure boats is the intake vacuum is closer to atmospheric pressure and will cause havoc with the MAP sensors in a fuel injected engine making the ECM think there is a demand for power when the engine is really only idling and consequently the engine gets excessive fuel. But to the water intrusion, that very draw from both valves being open can draw water over the riser and the end result may be water in the cylinder head exhaust port and cylinders.
The water comes up and comes out of the top and runs down the side. Super easy install, remove the 4 top cap bolts and replace Roth the ones in the kit and then drill 2 small holes in the cav plate.@WetPleasure … I like the look of that drive shower…especially if it cools the top cap and just doesn’t run down the sides…. Haven’t seen that before
I don't know why you are acting like a dickhead. Thought you had a serious question and I gave you a serious answer. Not on my third engine, thank you very much. Bought boat with a locked up motor.Hey, cool, what I know. On original 30yo Merc. You on 3rd engine but what do I know. Good luck.
Sorry if i came off as rude. On my sixth Sea Ray so I know just a little about boats.I don't know why you are acting like a dickhead. Thought you had a serious question and I gave you a serious answer. Not on my third engine, thank you very much. Bought boat with a locked up motor.
I took a chance on a used motor, it didn't pay off, now rebuilding it. As I already explained, I had to buy new Pistons and a new camshaft anyways so why not buy ones that improve performance when there is minimal price difference???
Anyone that worries about the price of gas ever shouldn't even own a boat. Plain and simple. A boat is a luxury liability. It costs you money, plain and simple
Interesting thread. Got a 250 / 7.4 basically same boat motor. “5000 rpm”.
Missing something. Why? I try not go over 3400 cause the 4bbl open. Then fuel cost is crazy. I not in that big hurry.
5k rpm. Do you own a refinery?
Its a cruiser. What am I missing?
Sorry if i came off as rude. On my sixth Sea Ray so I know just a little about boats.
My point was simply why are you trying to make a 260 run like a Cigarette Boat?
Merc recommends rpm range of about 4400+~. You want to make it run 5 - 6k. Will the outdrive take it?
You have to understand why Recommended rpm.ranges are what they are. The STOCK motor had a range between 4200-4600. That is largely due to the fact that we are dealing with cast crank, cast rods, cast Pistons. Since you have owned 6 sea rays you should already know that the 454 Magnum is actually rated for 4600-5000 rpm. Reason being? It has forged internals not cast.Sorry if i came off as rude. On my sixth Sea Ray so I know just a little about boats.
My point was simply why are you trying to make a 260 run like a Cigarette Boat?
Merc recommends rpm range of about 4400+~. You want to make it run 5 - 6k. Will the outdrive take it?
Sorry if i came off as rude. On my sixth Sea Ray so I know just a little about boats.
My point was simply why are you trying to make a 260 run like a Cigarette Boat?
Merc recommends rpm range of about 4400+~. You want to make it run 5 - 6k. Will the outdrive take it?
This is a 260 sundancer. To my knowledge not much can be done in the way of exhaust upgrade. I thought I came across something saying 502 or 496 exhaust works but then I looked at price and it was outrageous.You should have upgraded your exhaust, not only would it have given you more power but the water exits further down stream to avoid reversion. Dry to the tip is another option.
Your missing the point about dry-joint exhaust and what it does. Has nothing to do with reversion, it solved the corrosion problem where the elbow or riser meets the manifold. The exhaust and water passage are only separated by a 1/4" of metal, like the BB exhaust. The SB and BB elbow are similar and water dumps at the end
Not sure why everyone has such dickhead attitudes over this? Quite frankly, I have plenty of money but the rich don't get rich by throwing money away right?Oh ya pricey, thought you had money to burn? Freeing up exhaust flow is the first thing a gear-head does. right? So if your reversion continues you'll have to go to plan B
So you were questioning this back in September. At the time I didn't know the answer. I did research and got the answer. Cam upgrade with valve job and forged dome.pistons keeping 750 cfm carb and dual plane intake.OK then, what parts do you need to get the PP to 400hp with a 5k redline?
Which video are you referencing? Richard holdener? Yeah he's a car guy so he s using automotive dyno headers. And while we are at it, it's on a dyno right so there is no parasitic draw from accessories either. And no drag from a drivetrain. I get it. I get all of that. His first dynonrun in stock form came out to almost 330 on the button, which is EXACTLY what mercruiser rates this motor at in that form so I think it's safe to say we are at an apples to apples comparison in terms of performance improvements I can expect.Doubt it with that exhaust, but hey. Notice what exhaust he uses in the video ?
Suggest to go back and review the first post... There is a lot of marine related experience pitching in but then rather rudely dismissed on what appears an epiphany of new found expertise from Youtube and web sites. We are telling you the boat has an exhaust system problem with respect to reversion but yet a larger duration cam is installed; it defies logic. But it's your boat; please keep us all posted on how it turns out.Not sure why everyone has such dickhead attitudes over this? Quite frankly, I have plenty of money but the rich don't get rich by throwing money away right?
No freeing up exhaust flow is NOT the first thing gear heads do. Many times stock exhaust systems can support more upgrades. For example, my old 2.7 f150 Ecoboost made 70 more HP and 90 more lbs of torque off of a simple tune. No exhaust improvements needed.
The only exhaust improvements I want are ones that fix reversion issues and condensation dripping back into manifold issues and it doesn't appear that there are any off the shelf options for fixing reversion. Apparently I could install turbulator plate which will fix the condensation problem at low rpms but greatly restrict the exhaust flow.
Now you are just totally making things up. No ify pitched in ANYTHING of specific substance for the rebuild so I spent weeks doing additional research on my own.Suggest to go back and review the first post... There is a lot of marine related experience pitching in but then rather rudely dismissed on what appears an epiphany of new found expertise from Youtube and web sites. We are telling you the boat has an exhaust system problem with respect to reversion but yet a larger duration cam is installed; it defies logic. But it's your boat; please keep us all posted on how it turns out.
I'm one of those ignorant old school gear heads. So thanks for that... It's not always about what you learned on the innerweb.I'm so sick and tired of ignorant old school gesr heads rejecting science and facts but.obviousky that's the world we live in today. You go online and find a million old school gear heads swear up and down that "Peanut head ports can't make any power" "peanut port heads are terrible" and it's all based off some.shit they h are from somewhere or their butt dyno. Then Richard Holdener comes along and literally gives the step by step along with dyno runs to support it and people still refuse to believe it!!!!
I should really fuck with you guys and throw some aluminum heads on this thing and take the horsepower up over 600!!!!!!
Hawk, you may be old school but you are one of the only people that offered any actual information in this thread and then when faced with something you werent' sure about you acknowledged as such and even went so far as to apologize for possibly misconstruing information. I can respect that.I'm one of those ignorant old school gear heads. So thanks for that... It's not always about what you learned on the innerweb.
Not all heads that are called peanut ports are peanut ports for starters. ie 290s from an L29. Excellent head with tons of potential, but is still limited.
Scoflaw helped out alot when I was rebuilding my Gen VI 454 for my boat this past summer. He's not perfect, but who is? Suggest you listen a little more and don't get quite so defensive. That doesn't mean you have to take all the advice, but you don't need to insult guys that are trying to help either. He has a lot of engine knowledge. Go ask the same questions on Offshore Only if you haven't. There is a TON of knowledge out there already if you know where to look.
Let me know how that B3 works out at 600hp.