Engine won't stay running in run position.

Yukon

New Member
Oct 23, 2021
3
Rochester, NY
Boat Info
1976 Sea Ray, SRV220
Engines
351W with mercruiser outdrive
I have a 1976 Sea Ray which I have owned since 1978. She has Ford 351w with a Mercruiser outdrive. The problem I'm having is that while in crank position she starts right up as soon as I put ignition switch in run position she dies. Prior to this issue I was winterizing her. I ran the engine to warm it up. Then proceeded to winterization. I replaced plugs, cap and rotor, oil and filter and did a compression check. Distributor is a Flamethrower with Petronics ignition. Went to start it and she fired right up as usual but upon going from crank to run she dies. So hmmm she is 41 yes old so I replaced ignition switch still no run. Then I replaced the starter solenoid, still same issue. Then I disconnected the shift interrupter circuit, still same issue. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
An engine that age could have had a points-style distributor with a ballast resistor in line with the "Run" position from the ignition switch, plus a straight wire from either the starter solenoid or the ignition switch running directly to the coil. That way, the coil gets full 12 volts during cranking, but drops to ~9 volts through the ballast resistor during normal "Run" mode. Assuming the Flamethrower was designed as a drop-in for replacing an old-school points system, you have a bad ballast resistor.
 
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Put a volt meter on the "+" terminal of the coil, and you should have ~9 volts with the key in the "Run" position. I'm assuming you won't. If not, find the ballast resistor and check for 12 volts on one side, then ~9 volts on the other. The ballast resistors are one of the more fragile pieces in the system. Leaving your ignition switch in the "Run" position with a non-running engine can burn them out within a few minutes (or less).
 
Put a volt meter on the "+" terminal of the coil, and you should have ~9 volts with the key in the "Run" position. I'm assuming you won't. If not, find the ballast resistor and check for 12 volts on one side, then ~9 volts on the other. The ballast resistors are one of the more fragile pieces in the system. Leaving your ignition switch in the "Run" position with a non-running engine can burn them out within a few minutes (or less).
 
Thanks for your quick response, I'm getting 11.8v at coil with switch in run position. This engine doesn't have a ballast resistor. The Flamethrower distributor was an replacement about 5 years ago for the older point ignition system.
 
Looking at the schematic, there's not much to go wrong. Assuming this is how your engine's wired, it shouldn't be any more involved than getting power from the ignition switch. I can't explain why yours is acting the way it does. Please keep us updated as this progresses. Hopefully, this will give you some points to probe with your volt meter.
img_6370-jpg.1715088539
 
Is it possible the shift interrupt switch is bypassed in the crank position but not run? Sounds like the ignition system has been altered to some degree.
 
@Yukon mentioned back in post #5 that he's getting 11.8 volts at the coil when the switch is in the run position, so that "should" eliminate the interrupt switch. 'Something to look at, though.
 
Sounds more like a faulty start-in-gear switch. There is a switch that prevents the boat from being started when the gears are engaged. Only allows the boat to be started when not engaged. If that switch is faulty or not adjusted properly it can cause the engine to die when the throttle lever is engaged. I am not familiar with your particular model but on most Sea Rays in the 70's it was built into the shift mechanism. I had this problem with my 72 190 SRV. I had to replace the switch.
 
Ballast resistance comes to these engines in the form of a wire in the wiring harness... it's a 'resistance wire', looks like ordinary white wire, but the core is nichrome (nickel-chromium steel) rather than copper. There's about five feet of nichrome in the harness, and is indicated in MCM diagrams. The starter solenoid bypasses resistance wire during cranking.

If you have key on, but aren't cranking, the coil of a non-ballast system should be right at battery voltage, none less.

Shift interrupt is never bypassed... if the switch or cam is lazy, it WILL break the ignition circuit. Neutral Safety Start switch prevents cranking in any other than neutral... does NOT interface the ignition.
 

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