420/44 DB Owners Club

Any idea where I can get a new fitting to replace the one circle? It has a steady drip that I have not been able to stop so thinking if I can eat a hose with this fitting and splice into the existing hose.
 

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boaterholic said:
I gave this a try late this morning. so far it’s working!!! THANK YOU!
hopefully all it was! and thanks to all that have given suggestions.
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Great to hear! You are welcome!
 
NorCalRobert said:
Any idea where I can get a new fitting to replace the one circle? It has a steady drip that I have not been able to stop so thinking if I can eat a hose with this fitting and splice into the existing hose.
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There have been numerous posts on options to repair/splice or replace these hoses. Many use pex form the hardware store. I am pretty sure Bennett did a lot of this on his 44.
Carpe Deim
 
NorCalRobert said:
Any idea where I can get a new fitting to replace the one circle? It has a steady drip that I have not been able to stop so thinking if I can eat a hose with this fitting and splice into the existing hose.
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Yes, lowes sells a pack of 5 end barbs. They don't have the wings but that doesn't matter. You'll need a good hose clamp and some rescue tape or pipe tape and an exacto knife and heat gun or hot hair dryer.

Here is what to do
Warm the hose up along the metal flang. Then use the knife along the edge to get a clean straight cut.

On the end of the new replacement barb, wrap that a 2 times around with the tape. Make it a clean wrap so the end is exposed.
Next screw the new barb on and tighten a turn past hand tight.
Now heat up the cut end of the hose so it's very flexible and slide it on to the barb. Gentle twisting as it slides on so not to bunch the tape up.
Hose clamp it with a socket wrench, not a screwdriver. Once snug, heat the clamp and hose up once more, then tighten the clamp a bit more.
Check for leaks, then good to go.

Helpful hint, get extra hose clamps as you'll start using the other four barbs in the bag. Try really hard not to touch those other hoses nearby. If ya do, don't be surprised when they start to drip too! Those darn connections are just ticking time bombs after so may years. I replace those exact ones plus half the muffler under the gallley floor. Ugh!
Mark
 
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NorCalRobert said:
Any idea where I can get a new fitting to replace the one circle? It has a steady drip that I have not been able to stop so thinking if I can eat a hose with this fitting and splice into the existing hose.
Click to expand...

I used Sharkbite Pex female connectors and spring clamps from McMaster Carr and no heat needed. Cut the old one off and install the new connector and clamp. ttmott used same connectors and worm gear clamps with heat. Two very detailed posts if you search for them. I replaced around 40-50 on our 44DB and Tom did same on his 52DB. Be careful as SR did not leave much extra hose……

Bennett
 
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I just wanted to share a couple of photos from my transom module repositioning project. In all it has added an extra 2 1/2 feet to the cockpit.
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F83B8640-BA80-4331-BC54-E070219F0B9D.jpeg
 
Can anyone tell me where i might find the original Gioia sails patterns for my bridge I thought I've heard under the guest bed but before i tear up the boat thought I'd ask it will save me a scolding from the wife
 
todd choops said:
Can anyone tell me where i might find the original Gioia sails patterns for my bridge I thought I've heard under the guest bed but before i tear up the boat thought I'd ask it will save me a scolding from the wife
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If you call them they will tell you they were placed under the outboard bunk in the mid-SR. However, if yours was like mine, over time, someone had removed and likely discarded them. Why they did not simply put the drawings with the captain's material I do not know. Anyway, good luck finding them. My PO had an enclosure custom made.

Bennett
 
Was just trying to get the front 5 windows from them and was planning on having the rear custom made so i can get rid of the slanted back windows so your not hunched over sitting up there i'll give it a look maybe still there
 
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I'm looking for some guidance on the water heater plumbing. A mechanic wintered my boat in the fall and installed a homemade bypass manifold, which worked great. Today, after flushing the water tank I removed the bypass and re-installed the hoses on the water heater. Pretty easy, right? 2 Pex red hoses to the Hot side and 2 blue hoses to the Cold side. It's an Atwood EHM11.

I purged the water to the tank and then tried running the hot water (not heated) to clear all the lines. Prior to reconnecting the water heater I had good flow at all 3 faucets and both showers. Following the water heater hookup, I have no flow at any faucet, yet both showers are flowing well.

Anybody have any ideas?

At the water distribution manifold under the galley floor I have great flow after disconnecting the galley cold hose and one of the head faucets. Yet no flow at the taps??

Thanks,

Chip
 
Chipfloater said:
I'm looking for some guidance on the water heater plumbing. A mechanic wintered my boat in the fall and installed a homemade bypass manifold, which worked great. Today, after flushing the water tank I removed the bypass and re-installed the hoses on the water heater. Pretty easy, right? 2 Pex red hoses to the Hot side and 2 blue hoses to the Cold side. It's an Atwood EHM11.

I purged the water to the tank and then tried running the hot water (not heated) to clear all the lines. Prior to reconnecting the water heater I had good flow at all 3 faucets and both showers. Following the water heater hookup, I have no flow at any faucet, yet both showers are flowing well.

Anybody have any ideas?

At the water distribution manifold under the galley floor I have great flow after disconnecting the galley cold hose and one of the head faucets. Yet no flow at the taps??

Thanks,

Chip
Click to expand...

Take the aerator off of the spigots and check them and or the screens for debris.
 
Thanks for that advice Mitch and Steve, but I should have mentioned that I did that. I’m thinking that maybe I have the connections at the water heater itself incorrect. If anyone is at their boat I would appreciate a quick photo of the water heater hose connections.

Thank you,

Chip
 
Followup to my question about the water heater.

I have been told by 2 marine mechanics that a stuck check valve in the cold water side can block virtually the entire flow of water.

Does anyone know where the check may be located physically?

I have been told it is typically within approx 2 feet max of the water heater.

The owner’s manual indicates that we have one, but not where it is.

Thanks Again

Chip
 
Chip,
You have good flow at the shower diverters but no flow at the faucets, that can’t be the check valve. If the check valve was blocked nothing would work.
 
It turns out the check valve on the water pump was stuck, although that doesn’t explain everything. But we are back in business.

Thanks,

Chip
 
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The 42/44 DB must have either been made in extremely limited numbers or its the most sought after boat ever. A quick look only shows a few listed for sale. When I say I few I mean less than 6.
 
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