Official 380 Thread

I just got into replacing the raw water pump on the generator. It is quite involved as far as access.

I took out the Starboard floor panel with the quick clamps. Then I took out the fixed panel that has 2 screws holding it down at the forward edge of the engine compartment. Finally, I took out the aluminum channel that supports the lift hatch.

I could then lay on the Starboard engine with a foam pad for padding.

I was going to remove the wet exhaust tubes but they seemed pretty stuck. Then I would have moved the exhaust pot to the stern so I could access the generator.

The Westerbeke pump is a Johnson and is available for 1/4 of the Westerbeke replacement part.

So here is a question...do I need wire reinforced hose from the ball valve to the strainer? The hose that was there has failed and I think it is because of the wire reinforcement.

I can get both wire and fabric reinforced from West Marine. Does the generator really pull that hard on the hose?

Thanks for any input!!

Cheers!
 
I don't think it would matter so long as its rated for suction.

When I replaced all my raw water hoses last year I used wire reinforced as it was easier to route (more flexible) than the fabric reinforced. On the other hand the fabric reinforced is easier to clamp if you are using narrow band clamps which can "lay" between the wire reinforcing and stretch the hose. I replaced and used t-bolt clamps wherever possible, but due to their width, double clamps were not possible on all hoses such as the generator hose. So I used used the standard wideband clamps Searay originally used on my boat. Although I observed it was fairly common amongst boaters to run just a single t-bolt clamp.

Different boat, but the generator raw water pump is reasonably easy to access and replace on my Kohler generator.
 
Thanks juggernaut!

I will make sure that whatever I get will be suction rated. The access on the 380 to the Westerbeke is hateful. It is a PITA to get the zinc in the exchanger...I wrote about that last year.

Maybe when I get this done, I will pressure wash and polish the bilge...you have set a high standard!

Cheers!
 
Thanks for the accolades although I have never used a pressure washer in my bilge :)

I did use an acid wash/rust converter over all the bilge gelcoat though. Cleans and removes any rust stains off the gelcoat and stainless and converts any rusted metal. Then rinse with water. I also use this to clean my stainless strainer baskets as part of my annual maintenance.

https://www.bondall.com/ranex-rustbuster/
 
Looks like Bondall is a OZ only company. There are some rust converters here and bilge cleaners too.

One of them is a citrus based cleaner...I have a case of citrus cleaner from back in my Porsche days (daze?). It was quite important to have the wheel wells and undercarriage spotless. I never quite succumbed but I did get the cleaner.

I will endeavor to clean the bilge though!

Cheers!
 
Good Evening,

I'm in the process of purchasing a 2003 SR 380 Sundancer and have a question about the kohler generator. I've owned a 2001 340DA for years but it has a Westerbeke and I don't know as much about the kohlers.

During the survey it started just fine and ran for about 5-10 minutes until it shut down. It would restart but only run for about 15 seconds before it stopped again. If you let it cool down it would start again for about another 5-10 minutes and do the same again.

I've asked the seller to fix it but he is also offering additional money if I just take it as is. I've been told it could be just a thermostat or a water pump. are these hard to get to on the kohler? My gut tells me this is a simple fix, but would be interested in what other think and would do.

Thanks
 
It may be a simple fix. But you have to figure it out. Genny’s are a pita. Don’t matter what kind they are. I would have them fix it

AllTideUp said:
Good Evening,

I'm in the process of purchasing a 2003 SR 380 Sundancer and have a question about the kohler generator. I've owned a 2001 340DA for years but it has a Westerbeke and I don't know as much about the kohlers.

During the survey it started just fine and ran for about 5-10 minutes until it shut down. It would restart but only run for about 15 seconds before it stopped again. If you let it cool down it would start again for about another 5-10 minutes and do the same again.

I've asked the seller to fix it but he is also offering additional money if I just take it as is. I've been told it could be just a thermostat or a water pump. are these hard to get to on the kohler? My gut tells me this is a simple fix, but would be interested in what other think and would do.

Thanks
Click to expand...
 
Boat shopping is tough right now. If it’s a good boat don’t let a genset problem kill the deal. If he is making a fair offer you may fix it and come out ahead, you may fix it and come out behind. On the total purchase $$ it’s not that big of a deal.
 
I agree with TonyA, if this is a good deal then fix the generator. It runs so it is a water intake plug, raw water pump or one of the sensors. Sounds like the Kohlers throw codes for various reasons like UF for under frequency or high temp or etc.

There are some ideas floating around the web and even some on CSR.

Let us know.
 
Anyone ever replace the up-down windlass toggle switch at the helm? I'm looking to replace and can't find an original. Any options for me? Thanks
 
I have a 2001 380 and having issues with cabin door sliders/trucks. Looking to refurbish and been reading in other forums on here that it is a PIA. I was unable to find anything using the search engine about how it is taken apart, so track and trucks can be replaced. Has anyone done this job or know if it has been documented on this site? Looking for any instructions on how to complete. Tim
 
Mauler34Rod said:
I have a 2001 380 and having issues with cabin door sliders/trucks. Looking to refurbish and been reading in other forums on here that it is a PIA. I was unable to find anything using the search engine about how it is taken apart, so track and trucks can be replaced. Has anyone done this job or know if it has been documented on this site? Looking for any instructions on how to complete. Tim
Click to expand...
I know that Boat Outfitters has the hardware so I would call them and they may be able to give you insight on how to take it apart. Please document how it goes for the rest of us.

https://www.boatoutfitters.com/hardware/sliding-door-hardware
 
Hi all, I have a new to me 2003 380. Been having a lot of fun on here and on the water learning. One thing I am looking for inputs on is what options I would have to fill the big cavity in the cockpit adjacent to the captain's row and below the sink just to the right. It is currently empty. Clearly a small fridge is an option but with the full size fridge in the cabin being sufficient for us what other options could I have of something to stuff in there?
 
Mauler34Rod said:
I have a 2001 380 and having issues with cabin door sliders/trucks. Looking to refurbish and been reading in other forums on here that it is a PIA. I was unable to find anything using the search engine about how it is taken apart, so track and trucks can be replaced. Has anyone done this job or know if it has been documented on this site? Looking for any instructions on how to complete. Tim
Click to expand...
The 370 and 380 are pretty similar in those transition years.
I have documented the way you take the door panel off and I did use Boat Outfitters for the trucks. I bought the track as well because they told me the trucks don't fit the old track. Well, at least for a 98 370 that was a crock.
In fact, I HAD to use the old tracks because there is some fairing that would have to be done to a new one to get it to fit over the molded fiberglass at the door frame. Extra 150 bucks for nothing.
In case you can't find my posts and pictures (on Dropbox), you gain access to the screws holding the top of the sliding door pocket through the panel over the galley that has lights and speakers. A hidden screw on each end, but the main panel is held up with push pull catches. My door pocket also has 4 screws along the bottom of the panel accessible from the cockpit.
Pull the pocket off, unscrew the trucks, pull the door off, and slide the trucks out. CLEAN everything. It will be a mess, and it's the dirt getting into the truck wheel bearings that gum up the door.
Try this. I titled the photos to put them in order.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/hmhhagox5c92n36/AADR9m3NZXxo8CSwtBqrAC8la?dl=0
 
speedemn said:
Hi all, I have a new to me 2003 380. Been having a lot of fun on here and on the water learning. One thing I am looking for inputs on is what options I would have to fill the big cavity in the cockpit adjacent to the captain's row and below the sink just to the right. It is currently empty. Clearly a small fridge is an option but with the full size fridge in the cabin being sufficient for us what other options could I have of something to stuff in there?
Click to expand...

I think you are looking at the spot where the ice maker was installed. A number of us have installed 12/120V fridges in that spot by removing 1 1/2 inches of fiberglass on each size. I put in a Vitrifrigo 3.1. Easy install and all I had to do was bring a 12v supply over. There is a 120V outlet already there.

We keep our adult beverages there and it keeps the traffic down going down the stairs to the main fridge. Plus, it has a small freezer section for ice.

Let us know
 
Mauler34Rod said:
I have a 2001 380 and having issues with cabin door sliders/trucks. Looking to refurbish and been reading in other forums on here that it is a PIA. I was unable to find anything using the search engine about how it is taken apart, so track and trucks can be replaced. Has anyone done this job or know if it has been documented on this site? Looking for any instructions on how to complete. Tim
Click to expand...

Mauler, before you take everything apart....... I just got a 2001 380 a couple months back. The doors were ok when I got it but started binding up and getting really hard to operate after a couple weeks. Not long ago a fridge was installed and I thought they had messed it up putting the door back together so I was preparing to take it apart. Before doing so I took the shop vac and cleaned out all the track I could get to, taped large straws to the vac hose to reach port side of track etc. and then lubed it all with WD40. No more issues ! I was surprised that this fixed it. Also check all track screws that you can reach to make sure the door isn't dragging on one of those. I would have bet you that a cleaning and lube was not going to fix my problem, I would have lost !
 
Has anyone found a replacement gas strut for the Garelick helm seat. I leave the seat in the highest position but if I accidently hit the lever it collapses and it is a pain to pull it up manually.

I think I called Garelick about 4 years ago and they wanted an arm and a leg for it.

I am hoping someone has figured out a replacement.

I may have to take it apart and measure it. The stroke is 4 inch and I read somewhere that the force is 85 lbs.

With all my searching this morning I never found a single lift. Lots of office chair stuff and all kinds of marine stuff but no struts.

Cheers!
 
TonyA said:
Mauler, before you take everything apart....... I just got a 2001 380 a couple months back. The doors were ok when I got it but started binding up and getting really hard to operate after a couple weeks. Not long ago a fridge was installed and I thought they had messed it up putting the door back together so I was preparing to take it apart. Before doing so I took the shop vac and cleaned out all the track I could get to, taped large straws to the vac hose to reach port side of track etc. and then lubed it all with WD40. No more issues ! I was surprised that this fixed it. Also check all track screws that you can reach to make sure the door isn't dragging on one of those. I would have bet you that a cleaning and lube was not going to fix my problem, I would have lost !
Click to expand...
Tony, thanks but with mine a piece of plastic track has broken off and I pulled it out so I could still open and close the door, so unfortunately it’s going to have be a rebuild. Appreciate the reply though.
 
Bruce SEA 993 said:
I agree with TonyA, if this is a good deal then fix the generator. It runs so it is a water intake plug, raw water pump or one of the sensors. Sounds like the Kohlers throw codes for various reasons like UF for under frequency or high temp or etc.

There are some ideas floating around the web and even some on CSR.

Let us know.
Click to expand...

Turned out that it was just low on coolant. Got a generator tech to look at it and got it fixed and runs good and strong now.
 
Mauler34Rod said:
Tony, thanks but with mine a piece of plastic track has broken off and I pulled it out so I could still open and close the door, so unfortunately it’s going to have be a rebuild. Appreciate the reply though.
Click to expand...

Please make pictures and maybe do a rundown of what you did to remove/install it all. Some day all of us may have to visit the double doors. I know why they did double doors but it probably wasn’t their best idea ever !
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,183
Messages
1,428,126
Members
61,091
Latest member
dionb
Back
Top