420 DA Thread

I did find a few pictures left over on my phone from the water heater repair if you care to see them. I can text or email to you.
 
Pics courtesy of @ASH
 

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So in this picture, where the two black wires connect on the right side is actually some sort of thermal cutout, which has a reset button on it. It is in between the two spade connectors. I wonder what the chances are that is my problem? I wonder if that "automatically resets" when the breaker is turned off and then back on? If that were the case, it would explain why I had an amp draw after monkeying with the wires blindly. I don't remember how long it "ran" after I jiggled the wires with the breaker off, but it wasn't long enough to make hot water.

Thanks @ASH for the photos.

Jaybeaux
 
If your going to go to the trouble to get in there I would make it new again... don’t use these part numbers as I did a quick search but should still be under $100

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HELP !!!! Trying to avoid a divorce.

Looking to order a replacement table for the cabin, approx the same length but double the width of as our standard SR table. Will be center mounted on a new stand. I'll get rid of the old one and plug the original hole.

Boat is still shrink wrapped so I'm blindly guessing on the dimensions of the OEM table that came with the boat, as well as guessing the distance between the edges of the opposing bench seats. If anyone has a moment and a tape measure, it would be greatly appreciated.

Did I say, HELP?
 

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HELP !!!! Trying to avoid a divorce.

Looking to order a replacement table for the cabin, approx the same length but double the width of as our standard SR table. Will be center mounted on a new stand. I'll get rid of the old one and plug the original hole.

Boat is still shrink wrapped so I'm blindly guessing on the dimensions of the OEM table that came with the boat, as well as guessing the distance between the edges of the opposing bench seats. If anyone has a moment and a tape measure, it would be greatly appreciated.

Did I say, HELP?
You are going to want to measure your own boat...there are ribs under the floor of the hatch.... so placing a new table socket is going to be tricky plus you need a backing plate.... then you have to fill in the old hole.... there is a bit involved in that too

Take your time... get on the boat and figure out what you want.

some guys add a second floor socket and have a double pedestal table...that make a big difference in how sturdy it is....something to consider
 
You are going to want to measure your own boat...there are ribs under the floor of the hatch.... so placing a new table socket is going to be tricky plus you need a backing plate.... then you have to fill in the old hole.... there is a bit involved in that too

Take your time... get on the boat and figure out what you want.

some guys add a second floor socket and have a double pedestal table...that make a big difference in how sturdy it is....something to consider

Very much appreciated. To your suggestion, the plan is to make it a folding table and therefore only one center mounted stand. Had intended to order a folding Nordic Star one from Marine Teak in the UK but unfortunately they didn't survive.

So, if measurements are possible, all names and places will be changed to protect the innocent. We're still a couple months away from unwrapping the beast.
 
HELP !!!! Trying to avoid a divorce.

Looking to order a replacement table for the cabin, approx the same length but double the width of as our standard SR table. Will be center mounted on a new stand. I'll get rid of the old one and plug the original hole.

Boat is still shrink wrapped so I'm blindly guessing on the dimensions of the OEM table that came with the boat, as well as guessing the distance between the edges of the opposing bench seats. If anyone has a moment and a tape measure, it would be greatly appreciated.

Did I say, HELP?
The OEM table is 37 1/2” x 26 1/4”, still had my old table in my garage. Replaced with teak table from defender.com
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The OEM table is 37 1/2” x 26 1/4”, still had my old table in my garage. Replaced with teak table from defender.comView attachment 102174

That's PRECISELY the info I was hoping for. Clearly my guesstimate was off. Way off. If I'd already hit the Buy Now button the Admiral would probably hit me with table when it arrived. The measurements prove we'll need at least 35 to 40 inches wide between the benches so folks can dine comfortably. Many thanks !!
 
All - I detailed over at the Electronics Thread my recent replacement of the OEM Clarion Cockpit amp with a Fusion amp:

Trying to diagnose issue with starboard cockpit speakers

I wanted to post here to share what I learned about how the amps and head unit are wired. I had always assumed that these switches cut the power to the external amps:
IMG_8549.jpg


So I was super confused when I starting undoing the wiring bundles to the amps to discover that the two amps were wired together. How could the switches cut power to each individual amp if there are wired together!?

I ran out of time - so when I went home that night I referred to the PDF I have of the Owners Manual which includes a wiring diagram of the stereo and amps (see attached PDF). What I learned by studying the wiring diagram:

  • The cockpit amp is supplied by (red/black) 8 gauge wires coming straight from the "Stereo" breaker.
  • These wires are joined to 10 gauge (red/black) wires that then feeds the smaller cabin amp.
  • The cabin amp wires are joined to 14 gauge (red/black) wires that then double back to the circuit panel feed the head unit (originally Clarion XMD3 but updated by previous owner to a Fusion).
So what do the switches in the above pic do? They are connected to 16 gauge blue/white wires that connect into the "Remote Connection" input on the amp. This tells the amp to power on when it detects voltage.

Luckily I had taken precautions anyway - turned off amp switch / turned off stereo circuit breaker / turned off battery solenoid / checked w voltmeter - but somebody who just assumed those switches cut power to the amps ... might be in for a shocking revelation.
 

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Has anyone replaced their freezer (04' 420DA) with the Dometic CRX-1065U/F??

Our freezer is on its last legs, and we'd like to replace it this season, but I'm having trouble finding a suitable replacement. I know in a previous post (pg52) copb8tx replaced his with a Dometic CRX-65 and Flush-Mount Trim kit. However, best as I can tell the CRX-65 is no longer produced. I can still find the fridge from a few suppliers, but the trim kit has eluded my google-fu.

The 1065 appears to be the replacement for the 65, but is slightly larger in all dimensions... thoughts?
 
Has anyone replaced their freezer (04' 420DA) with the Dometic CRX-1065U/F??

Our freezer is on its last legs, and we'd like to replace it this season, but I'm having trouble finding a suitable replacement. I know in a previous post (pg52) copb8tx replaced his with a Dometic CRX-65 and Flush-Mount Trim kit. However, best as I can tell the CRX-65 is no longer produced. I can still find the fridge from a few suppliers, but the trim kit has eluded my google-fu.

The 1065 appears to be the replacement for the 65, but is slightly larger in all dimensions... thoughts?

Mine was replaced with an Isotherm back in 2017 I think by the PO. It cools to 0* and not turned down all the way. I love it. Very few marine freezers will freeze ice cream hard. I can get the model number later. It looks like it is an exact match to the refrigerator.....

Bennnett
 
Mine was replaced with an Isotherm back in 2017 I think by the PO. It cools to 0* and not turned down all the way. I love it. Very few marine freezers will freeze ice cream hard. I can get the model number later. It looks like it is an exact match to the refrigerator.....

Bennnett

Our fridge was replaced by the previous owner. I can't remember the specific brand, but it's not one I regularly hear. I'd definitely be curious to know the model number, anything helps! I'd like to minimize any cutting. The Admiral like the idea that the dometic could 'switch' between fridge/freezer. I'll go have a look at Isotherm on the web. Thanks!
 
Our fridge was replaced by the previous owner. I can't remember the specific brand, but it's not one I regularly hear. I'd definitely be curious to know the model number, anything helps! I'd like to minimize any cutting. The Admiral like the idea that the dometic could 'switch' between fridge/freezer. I'll go have a look at Isotherm on the web. Thanks!

Oh I am in also if it is a direct fit and a flush mount, my '05 is barely working
 

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