370Dancer
Well-Known Member
- Oct 2, 2006
- 2,489
- Boat Info
- 1998 370 Sundancer
- Engines
- 380hp MAG MPI Gen VI with V drives
AluminumThe stainless moldings??
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AluminumThe stainless moldings??
How did you cut it for all the curves in the cabin? Razor knife or did you need a jig saw? Also, website says orders less than 500 sq. feet won't be processes. There's no way I need 500 sq. feet.
It’s a powder coated silver finish not stainless.The stainless moldings??
The flexible 3/4 round that leads to the mid cabin couch/bedThe stainless moldings??
Hi, the vinyl looks great. Did you use the higher end material. I'm thinking of doing it and thought the thicker vinyl would negate the need for leveler. Any input?I used vinyl plank, If I did it again I would put down a sub floor firstView attachment 96468 instead of trying to level.
Hi, is that EVA foam floor covering on the deck and platform?Maybe I've just been lucky with my projects. Exterior EVA, simple rugs, stair covers, etc. If I can do it, anyone can do it...and I didn't say it was easy, I said it was foolproof
A hard lump, no matter what it is, will eventually show as a wear point or you will feel it.Hi, the vinyl looks great. Did you use the higher end material. I'm thinking of doing it and thought the thicker vinyl would negate the need for leveler. Any input?
Thanks
Art
Hi, is that EVA foam floor covering on the deck and platform?
Thanks
Art
If you are going to sacrifice the wood for the cutout, I'd drill a hole in each corner, and then use a jigsaw against a nailed down straightedge to get the straightest cuts. You will likely have to shim up the cleat that the hatch rests on, now that you don't have carpet covering the hatch. If you are going to save the wood for the hatch, then a plunge oscillating tool and a very steady hand in each corner. Tough to keep it from bouncing across the wood when starting the cut.On step closer. No I need to figure out how I'm going to cut the floor hatches. Thinking maybe a trim router?
View attachment 98289
If you are going to sacrifice the wood for the cutout, I'd drill a hole in each corner, and then use a jigsaw against a nailed down straightedge to get the straightest cuts. You will likely have to shim up the cleat that the hatch rests on, now that you don't have carpet covering the hatch. If you are going to save the wood for the hatch, then a plunge oscillating tool and a very steady hand in each corner. Tough to keep it from bouncing across the wood when starting the cut.
I called them cleats. The boards that the hatch rest on. The shims are what you need to raise the cleats to compensate for no carpeting.370Dancer. Yes this is something I am considering. Being I'm using 1/2" plywood, it's a little too thin to reuse for the hatch. I was thinking about using the originals. I'll have to practice like Stee6043 suggests. One thing about the router, once you have a template, it cuts super nice, but does leave a lot of chips. Still haven't decided if I want to screw down the plywood and cut the hatch in the boat, or pull the sections back out and take home. Also not sure if I used a jig saw in the boat if the blade would hit the shims as you called them. And plunge saw may be what I use for corners.
Stay tuned.
That looks great!!I used cherry and holly Nautic Floor planking that I purchased from Plasteak. I cut it all the curves and angles with a razor knife. I used flexible 1/4 round which I stained to match. It takes some time but not hard to install. I glued it over existing floor after I removed the carpet. I did not need to add any sub flooring. I think using a large sheet would be very difficult with no room for error.
Rick