Russ Calasant
Active Member
For anyone that is interested there is a new 480 owners blog on FB - https://www.facebook.com/groups/309640840443152/
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Same for meMine is bone dry now...but I'm under covered shed.
Do you have the CAT EMS instrument system? If so, they are powered by two 12 volt DC to 24 volt DC converters under the stbd side of the helm. One powers the stbd CAT EMS and instruments and the other powers the port CAT EMS and instruments. Check their input and output voltages. My port converter also failed and I found this aftermarket replacement at a lower price than the OEM converter: Analytic Systems VTC120MS-12-24. I chose their option to build the converter to military specs for the marine environment and it has been working fine now for five years.
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Steve,
I went down to the boat and found (what I think) are the converters. Are they the ones about the size of paperback book, only about half as thick as a paperback? How in the world did you get to them? Mine are mounted on the inner helm wall behind the AC unit. I could see them through the small hatch under the helm. I could not reach them with my voltmeter probes to test them, thus I couldn't take a reading. Did you pull the switch panel or radar screen to access them? There might be room for me to get one arm with a screw gun in there to take the screws out and pull the converters closer to the hatch opening, but not sure. I did not have the tools with me to try that. There was no way I was getting both arms in there at the same time through the small hatch opening.
I left well enough alone for right now. It was 28 degrees and the fingers were getting cold. I will look at it again on a warmer day.
Keith
View attachment 97397
View attachment 97397
Steve,
I went down to the boat and found (what I think) are the converters. Are they the ones about the size of paperback book, only about half as thick as a paperback? How in the world did you get to them? Mine are mounted on the inner helm wall behind the AC unit. I could see them through the small hatch under the helm. I could not reach them with my voltmeter probes to test them, thus I couldn't take a reading. Did you pull the switch panel or radar screen to access them? There might be room for me to get one arm with a screw gun in there to take the screws out and pull the converters closer to the hatch opening, but not sure. I did not have the tools with me to try that. There was no way I was getting both arms in there at the same time through the small hatch opening.
I left well enough alone for right now. It was 28 degrees and the fingers were getting cold. I will look at it again on a warmer day.
Keith
View attachment 97397
I paid over $500 in 2016 for a replacement converter I installed and thought it was a great deal because it was still a couple hundred dollars cheaper than the OEM converter.......That is the converters, and I just had to replace my second one this year. Replaced the other a couple of years ago. They are step-up converters moving voltage from 12 to 24 volts. I purchased from amazon for $19 total.
DROK 090183 Waterproof DC Synchronous Boost Converter Regulator DC-DC 9-20V 12V to 24V 5A/120W Step-up Power Supply Circuit Module Adapter with Aluminum Shell for Electric Motor
Good luck
Yes, that's one in your photo. Mine are mounted in the same place and I have bridge A/C as you do so I was only able to get one arm in there. I used alligator clips to take the voltage readings. I unscrewed the wire lugs one handed. I just left the old converter in place because there was no way I was going to be able to mount the new converter in the same location as the old one. I mounted the new converter on the divider on the port side of the compartment under the helm wheel.
Keith, check out DCPRINGLE's post above. He used an amazingly inexpensive alternative. There must be a reason his alternative costs virtually nothing compared to the OEM converter, but if it worked for him...That is what I figured I would have to do also. There is plenty of room to mount them in a more accessible spot. I will probably order the converter today.
Keith
I may have the lid you are looking for from my 450EB. Send me a PM and we can talk about getting it to you.The pic above is the lid I am looking for, with zero luck so far. It covers the Port and STBD cranking batteries.
I paid over $500 in 2016 for a replacement converter I installed and thought it was a great deal because it was still a couple hundred dollars cheaper than the OEM converter.......
Keith, check out DCPRINGLE's post above. He used an amazingly inexpensive alternative. There must be a reason his alternative costs virtually nothing compared to the OEM converter, but if it worked for him...
Keith,Made it down to the boat this weekend and pulled the salon carpet out. It is on my list to replace this spring. My plan right now is to use the old carpet as a pattern for the new one and have the edges bound so that I can easily remove it and have it cleaned when needed. I admit, my carpet knowledge is shallow when it comes to quality of carpets. I know I want a nice high end carpet with a rubber backing, which is what the original carpet had.....or is there any other flooring options that ended up nice for a 480? I do not want to put a laminate down in case I would have to open up the hatches for engine access.
Keith
Made it down to the boat this weekend and pulled the salon carpet out. It is on my list to replace this spring. My plan right now is to use the old carpet as a pattern for the new one and have the edges bound so that I can easily remove it and have it cleaned when needed. I admit, my carpet knowledge is shallow when it comes to quality of carpets. I know I want a nice high end carpet with a rubber backing, which is what the original carpet had.....or is there any other flooring options that ended up nice for a 480? I do not want to put a laminate down in case I would have to open up the hatches for engine access.
Keith
So, still working on rainwater leaks. Before I tackle the windshield I thought I would caulk all the obvious places that the caulking was lacking, so here is what I'm currently doing:
The top red arrow is obvious that it needs replacing (as well as the bottom arrow, but there is a question, below).
The bottom of the two ancient caulk lines up close:
Yeah, so I need to scrape that out and replace it. Seems to be actual caulk or putty (not silicone), because it is messy under the crust.
BUT HERE IS THE ACTUAL QUESTION: Should that caulk extend all the way around the the boat above the windshield? I don't see any evidence of antique caulking. (The lower area between the two fiberglass panels.)
Please don't judge the dirtiness, I moor under a very active flight path. NAS Oceana