410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

Turkanon said:
Prop Tech lent me a Prop Knocker to get my props off. I failed to get them off. After two hours of swinging a 4 pound sledge, I gave up. I have asked my Marina to remove them. My question is: I could buy a good Walter Plate style puller for $355.oo. What do you think the Marina will charge? Is the tool worth the investment? My fear is buying the tool to find out I cant get them off myself!
What do you suggest?
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you could buy the strutpro with the puller plate for about the same cost so if you have cutless bearings in your future that’s a better buy.

That being said, I needed both pressure on the prop and harmonics to break it loose. I put enough pressure to bend a 1/4” thick piece of steel and it wouldn’t budge. I called strutpro and they said get good pressure on the prop with the pulled then wack the plate with a dead blow hammer to get harmonics going on the prop. Sure enough, 3-4 hits and the thing let right go.
 
Cocktail Time said:
Hey yall, I am having my cockpit vinyl redone soon and would like to see some examples of what you all have done to share with the upholstery folks. Would you mind sending me a photo if you have redone yours? Message here is fine, or if you prefer to text 678-360-4358 or email is Dsch555@charter.net. Thank you!
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Turkanon said:
Prop Tech lent me a Prop Knocker to get my props off. I failed to get them off. After two hours of swinging a 4 pound sledge, I gave up. I have asked my Marina to remove them. My question is: I could buy a good Walter Plate style puller for $355.oo. What do you think the Marina will charge? Is the tool worth the investment? My fear is buying the tool to find out I cant get them off myself!
What do you suggest?
Click to expand...
Turk - my yard usually has to use a little heat on the hub to remove my props...with the puller.
 
Anyone ever clean the compressor side of the turbo on your CATs? The dealer shared the cleaning instructions with me and since I have the aftercoolers off I figured I'd do it before reassembly.

It's not clear whether there is a gasket on the housing. The steps are:

1) Remove compressor housing
2) clean housing with Hydrosolv and a hard bristle brush
3) clean compressor wheel with 4C-4079 brake and electric cleaner.

Seems easy enough, but the compressor isn't terribly dirty. Its one of those jobs that I question whether is worth it or should I not stir up any problems.

Edit: The resident CAT guy at Boatdiesel, Dave, commented to just remove the housing straight off and be careful with the compressor fins. No gasket on the housing
 
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Got our prop scan results back today with the estimates on target pitch --

Our current props measured 22.9" of pitch. We were turning 2680 port/ 2600 starboard. The stbd side is the driveline with the bent strut, so we believe it accounted for some or all of the delta.

We will be propping to 2850 WOT which puts us at 21.4" of pitch. We will be leaving the L cup in place, balancing, polishing, and taking the small ding out of the starboard side. Excited to get them on and run her in the spring :)
 
Good work!!!

I've done some prop pitch calculations on BoatDiesel.com and thats about where the calculations point to.

I'll be interested to see what you performance numbers look like after everything is sorted out.
 
Strecker25 said:
Pulled the other aftercooler off the port side, not as enjoyable as the starboard but not terrible.

They look naked :) but a good chance to really clean up down there


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Looks great Ryan. Great time to replace the short hoses and clamps from the turbos to the aftercoolers. I recall the hoses were not expensive from CAT, but they are proud of those Belville clamps!!

I had my aftercooler covers powder coated and ordered new CAT Marine Power decals from my dealer and that really topped mine off.
 
carterchapman said:
Looks great Ryan. Great time to replace the short hoses and clamps from the turbos to the aftercoolers. I recall the hoses were not expensive from CAT, but they are proud of those Belville clamps!!

I had my aftercooler covers powder coated and ordered new CAT Marine Power decals from my dealer and that really topped mine off.
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absolutely, I have those hoses and many others in hand. About $300 worth of clamps alone

I have a slow drip on the stubby hose between the water pump (coolant, not impeller) and housing where the T-stay is. I bought the hose and clamps do replace it but it looks like I’ll need to pull some parts off to get to it.

At least I can keep busy this winter :)
 
Lots of great info on this thread. Contemplating a 98/99 400 with 3116 Cats. Sure is a lot of boat for the neighborhood price of 100k. The price essentially more than doubles for an 02-04. Wow!

Any major concerns with these years and models before I go and read all 156 pages in this thread?
 
SeaNile said:
Lots of great info on this thread. Contemplating a 98/99 400 with 3116 Cats. Sure is a lot of boat for the neighborhood price of 100k. The price essentially more than doubles for an 02-04. Wow!

Any major concerns with these years and models before I go and read all 156 pages in this thread?
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its all normal stuff - check the top deck for moisture around hatches and stanchions, you can get a hold of SR to see if the hull is cored (I think some of the 400s were), run it up to WOT to make sure she turns 2800+

I don’t think there are any perpetual problems with the 400/410. We have a half year of ownership so far absolutely love it. They’re efficient, stable, super easy to handle, and very roomy
 
Thanks for the heads up. I have a copy of a survey done on the boat just 2 months ago for insurance purposes. No oil analysis, WOT sea trial, etc but really all it showed was a few original hoses need to be replaced. Not sure this particular surveyor was looking too hard for anything but was rather checking the boxes for an agreed upon value.
 
SeaNile said:
Thanks for the heads up. I have a copy of a survey done on the boat just 2 months ago for insurance purposes. No oil analysis, WOT sea trial, etc but really all it showed was a few original hoses need to be replaced. Not sure this particular surveyor was looking too hard for anything but was rather checking the boxes for an agreed upon value.
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definitely get your own full survey and have CAT do the engine survey. It’ll cost you a few thousand bucks but it’s worth it. Our previous owner did an “insurance survey” and they didn’t even plug the shore power in, it was purely for insurance value purposes.
 
And now comes the fun of tracking down info to see if the hull is cored or not.
SERFxxxxHxxx
Emailed Terry and the SR email address I have.
 
SeaNile said:
And now comes the fun of tracking down info to see if the hull is cored or not.
SERFxxxxHxxx
Emailed Terry and the SR email address I have.
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SERF is Merritt Island, FL. My 2002 410 was built there and is not cored but I don’t know if that would also be true for that year 400. Let us know what you find out

by the way, coring isn’t necessarily a bad thing as long as it’s dry so I wouldn’t walk from a boat just because it’s cored.
 
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