Battery Energizer switches not illuminating

David L

New Member
Nov 4, 2019
11
Boat Info
340 Sundancer 2001
Engines
7.4l Mercruiser shaft drive
Had the Sundancer 340/365 over a month now and loving it. Getting to know where everything is controlled and powered.

I turned off the port and starboard energizer switches at the cabin control panel. Both switches have always been illuminated blue lights since I have had the boat. But on re-energizing the batteries the blue lights are no longer on. However everything is working, cabin lights, stereo, both engines and generator start ok. On the engine room panel only the port switch is illuminated. I don't think it is the bulbs as I can get the port switch illuminated but it goes out when the starboard is energized ??

I have been told by another Sea Ray owner that as long as everything works on the 12 volt side then don't worry about it. Just want to make sure that is the case.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions

David
 
Congrats on the new boat! 2001 is a fine vintage!

If everything works and your OK with that, nothing further needs to be done. However, if you (like a lot of us) like things to function as designed, this should be a fairly easy fix.

The switch body has an indicator lamp inside. It is on a separate circuit (with both + and -) that should light up once the 12V circuit is powered. You can test that circuit and see if there is 12VDC to the lamp. If there is power on the circuit, but no lamp, the lamp is likely failed. Sea Ray Part #681949. Flounder Pounder has them about $20/switch and a pretty good explanation here https://www.searay-parts.com/Carling-rocker-switch-p/vld1-3.htm. I'd go ahead and replace all 4 as the 4th is likely about due and FP usually has a min order that prevents a single switch from being ordered.

On a side note I looked for the Owners supplement that usually contains the schematics, but its missing on the website. Call Sea Ray and get that manual. It will be very detailed and tell you the wire colors you are looking for.

Dave

upload_2019-12-12_8-18-58.png
 
Congrats on the new boat! 2001 is a fine vintage!

If everything works and your OK with that, nothing further needs to be done. However, if you (like a lot of us) like things to function as designed, this should be a fairly easy fix.

The switch body has an indicator lamp inside. It is on a separate circuit (with both + and -) that should light up once the 12V circuit is powered. You can test that circuit and see if there is 12VDC to the lamp. If there is power on the circuit, but no lamp, the lamp is likely failed. Sea Ray Part #681949. Flounder Pounder has them about $20/switch and a pretty good explanation here https://www.searay-parts.com/Carling-rocker-switch-p/vld1-3.htm. I'd go ahead and replace all 4 as the 4th is likely about due and FP usually has a min order that prevents a single switch from being ordered.

On a side note I looked for the Owners supplement that usually contains the schematics, but its missing on the website. Call Sea Ray and get that manual. It will be very detailed and tell you the wire colors you are looking for.

Dave

View attachment 77775

Dave

Thank you for your reply. I will try and identify the lamp 12v feed and test with a multi-meter.

However the confusing part that steered me away from a lamp(s) failure is when both are de-energized, energize the port switch the lamp does light but goes out when starboard switch is activated which seems very strange. Also for both lamps to fail? So it may be the 12v feed to the lamps that is the issue.

I will take the panel off and do some investigating

Thanks
David
 
Dave

Thank you for your reply. I will try and identify the lamp 12v feed and test with a multi-meter.

However the confusing part that steered me away from a lamp(s) failure is when both are de-energized, energize the port switch the lamp does light but goes out when starboard switch is activated which seems very strange. Also for both lamps to fail? So it may be the 12v feed to the lamps that is the issue.

I will take the panel off and do some investigating

Thanks
David


I agree but with out a schematic and the boat in front of me, it would be impossible to diagnose. Given the age of the boat, some PO might have installed the wrong parts, or rewired incorrectly. That's why the schematic is so important.

First step, check the part numbers on the switch. Here's how https://www.fpmarine.com/Articles.asp?ID=245

Then check that the switches all have 12 VDC to the Lamp circuit when energized and that the lamp circuit is a 2 wire (vs 1 wire like some of the other switches SR uses). Secondly you can test the lamp function of the switch base by applying a known 12VDC source and verifying operation of the lamp.

Here is the schematic of the switches from my 2001 410. I bet your is very similar including the wire coloring.
 

Attachments

  • 12VDC.pdf
    300.8 KB · Views: 182
If I remember correctly on your latching solenoids are 1A fuses. Those provide feedback to switches to illuminate indicator light. If you don't have fuses then check if you didn't loose ground going to bulb (or led) going to switch.
 
I agree but with out a schematic and the boat in front of me, it would be impossible to diagnose. Given the age of the boat, some PO might have installed the wrong parts, or rewired incorrectly. That's why the schematic is so important.

First step, check the part numbers on the switch. Here's how https://www.fpmarine.com/Articles.asp?ID=245

Then check that the switches all have 12 VDC to the Lamp circuit when energized and that the lamp circuit is a 2 wire (vs 1 wire like some of the other switches SR uses). Secondly you can test the lamp function of the switch base by applying a known 12VDC source and verifying operation of the lamp.

Here is the schematic of the switches from my 2001 410. I bet your is very similar including the wire coloring.

Great info thanks.

I have found the schematic in my manual. The bulb sits across 7 and 8 on the switch as on your diagram. So will do some testing.

I only have 4 batteries so different to yours. This also brought up another query. The previous owner told me Starboard batts for house and starboard engine start. Port batts for generator and port engine start. But when I de-energize the port batts switch the cabin 12V equipment goes off so this contradicts this, that is if the switches are correct!

We are based in Perth Australia with outside temp at 40 degrees C at moment (104F) so going out for a trip this weekend (Rottnest Island) so will do some testing next week

Thanks
David
 
I confirmed 12v is there on pins 7 and 8 of each switch so I guess both lamps are blown.

But the switches are not working correctly I am sure. De-energize port and stereo goes off. De-energize starboard and nothing seems to happen. With both de-energized I can still turn on items such a blowers, wipers, horn, window vent etc. I would presume all 12v items (except bilge pumps) should turn off is that correct? Tried the similar switches on both panels.

The solenoids are they inside the breaker panel in the engine compartment? It will take somebody smaller, slimmer and younger than me to get to take the cover off!
 
I confirmed 12v is there on pins 7 and 8 of each switch so I guess both lamps are blown.

But the switches are not working correctly I am sure. De-energize port and stereo goes off. De-energize starboard and nothing seems to happen. With both de-energized I can still turn on items such a blowers, wipers, horn, window vent etc. I would presume all 12v items (except bilge pumps) should turn off is that correct? Tried the similar switches on both panels.

The solenoids are they inside the breaker panel in the engine compartment? It will take somebody smaller, slimmer and younger than me to get to take the cover off!
I think you are on the right track. I am summarizing because I suspect you and I aren't the only ones that will ever look into this.
The horn and wipers and window vent are off the starboard switch pad. And that switch pad controls the forward EIM that is located below the helm (not the aft one in the engine compartment).
So if the port switch in the cabin panel is wired correctly, you would start by making sure that the stbd switch in the cabin panel is wired like the port. And you are correct to verify that the solenoid itself (located in the DC distribution panel in the bilge) for the stbd should be wired like the port. You are right that access is tight.
If they look the solenoids are wired same, then you may want to switch port and starboard components.
 
Many times generator has dedicated battery with or without dedicated switch. That allows to start generator and use battery charger when all other batteries are dead
 
Hello all, apologies if this has been covered already at some point. The amount of info here is dizzying

Is there an actual replacement lamp for the Carling rocker switches or must one replace the switch body itself? I’ve seen people convert to LED so figured it should be possible? I am preparing to pull the trigger with FP on a full dash replacement including switches, yet will likely keep original gauges. I do have a few other rockers around the main panel that are also burned out so would be great to be able to return them all to working order without incurring the expense AND the trouble of replacing the entire switch. TIA
 
Hello all, apologies if this has been covered already at some point. The amount of info here is dizzying

Is there an actual replacement lamp for the Carling rocker switches or must one replace the switch body itself? I’ve seen people convert to LED so figured it should be possible? I am preparing to pull the trigger with FP on a full dash replacement including switches, yet will likely keep original gauges. I do have a few other rockers around the main panel that are also burned out so would be great to be able to return them all to working order without incurring the expense AND the trouble of replacing the entire switch. TIA
I never found replacements bulbs but they may exist. Some new switches are using led instead bulb. Is not simple swap, there is resistor involved. Depends how much your tome is worth replacing bulb may be time consuming. It involves small, spring loaded parts inside switch. I did is only when replacement switches were not available. I actually used bulbs from cheapest switches i could find, to repair the hard to get.
 
I never found replacements bulbs but they may exist. Some new switches are using led instead bulb. Is not simple swap, there is resistor involved. Depends how much your tome is worth replacing bulb may be time consuming. It involves small, spring loaded parts inside switch. I did is only when replacement switches were not available. I actually used bulbs from cheapest switches i could find, to repair the hard to get.

Yes, in reading MasterFab’s reno blog I saw he replaced the Carsten bulbs with LED with the addition of the resistors. Beyond my patience level to be sure. Would be great if FP had LED switches in their replacement full set, however no mention of LED in the description. Perhaps I’ll give em a ring tomorrow to see what’s what.
 
Sierra sell the switches with leds at least they're listed in my master catalog, replaced 4 last year on my dash and they come with two different color switch covers
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,950
Messages
1,422,893
Members
60,933
Latest member
juliediane
Back
Top