270 Sundeck Fuel issues

Woody Woods

New Member
Feb 18, 2020
3
Boat Info
2003 270 Sundeck
Engines
6.2 mpi Bravo III
I have a 2003 270 Sundeck that quit while idling around. I got towed in and put it up on my lift. Going through the fuel system I replaced the filter before the low pressure pump, the water separator filter, check the operation of the fuel shut-off valve and still no fuel rail pressure. Looking down at the high pressure pump I started taking out the engine cowling and figuring how to get my hands on the fuel pump plug. It was a bitch to get apart but finally I prayed it apart. The ground wire in the plug was all melted. I removed the plugs and wired straight through. Off course I worry that there is a problem which made the connector hot, but running it on the lift with water supplied for over 20 minutes and all is well. I’m going to sea trial it today.
Here are some pics of melted plugs.

View attachment 80126 View attachment 80127
 
Maybe you should wire in a inline fuse near that connector just in case it starts to draw to much current and heat up it wont melt any wires where you are not sure it happens.
 
It could be that one or both of the pumps need to be replaced.

As they age, internal resistance builds up and it takes more current to run the pump.
Not enough to blow the fuse, but enough to cause excess heat in the wiring and melt the connector over time.

A dirty or poor connection will have the same effect.

You could set up an Inline ammeter and measure the actual current flow with the engine running for a more in depth diagnosis.
 
I plan to check up on the amperage with a clamp on, at this point I’m pretty sure it was a bad/dirty connection. Since only the ground wire was the one that melted the plastic housing. This plug only feeds 1 pump. The low pressure pump is on another fuse circuit.
This thread was created to show people that just replacing parts might not get you to a final fix. Check for power at every connector and keep your eyes open. Trouble shooting with new parts can get very expensive, and in the end may not get the job done.


It could be that one or both of the pumps need to be replaced.

As they age, internal resistance builds up and it takes more current to run the pump.
Not enough to blow the fuse, but enough to cause excess heat in the wiring and melt the connector over time.

A dirty or poor connection will have the same effect.

You could set up an Inline ammeter and measure the actual current flow with the engine running for a more in depth diagnosis.
 

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