420/44 DB Owners Club

Hi Brian, I wondered about that sealed area and water. What did you do to add a hatch? pics?

I installed a 6" inspection deck plate with a clear cover.

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I don't have a picture of the hole that I can find surprisingly, but I put it in the surface of the walkway as far aft as possible, pretty much between the two sea strainers for the generator and air conditioner. Hole was cut using a 5 1/2" hole saw (if I remember the diameter well), and involved a lot of "I hope this is a good idea" second-guessing!

You have to go through two separate materials. First is around 1/4" to 5/16" of fiberglass (which I keep on my desk as a souvenir!), then about an inch of marine plywood. The two separated as the hole was drilled.

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Here is a picture from inside the hole looking forward. The bulkhead you see is not at the end of the walkway. It is the reinforcing brace at the position where the walkway widens, and it does not go all the way to the hull.

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Just seems like a bad idea to have a captive space like this in the hull of a boat...
 
Thanks Brian, very good idea! Did you find much water in it when you first opened it up?
 
Just seems like a bad idea to have a captive space like this in the hull of a boat...
Well, you could go some pretty serious damage to the keel and the boat won't sink. Of course now that there is a hole in it....
 
I will do this as well. I did same to the stringer on the starboard side of the washer/dryer. I had water in it from a leaking fitting on the shower mixing valve in starboard head.

Bennett
 
So my new to me 420DB has a Kodiak anchor that is slightly bent and seems undersized. On my last boat, a Rinker 360, i had installed a Rocna 20kg, and that was the best anchor i have ever used. We anchor alot and consistently had 3-4 boats on that anchor in pretty heavy winds and it always held. So i'm inclined to put a Rocna on my 420DB. However with the way the bow roller is designed it would seem that the Rocna roll bar or even possibly the shank of the anchor would come into contact with the half moon support brace that resides above the shank of the anchor.
Has anyone mounted a Rocna to a 420 or 44DB with original rollers with success? I'm wondering if the new Rocna Vulcan would fit better. It does not have the roll bar and it seems like the shank would sit much lower in the roller.
Any insight from those who upgraded?
As for size i was leaning toward the Rocna 33kg (72lbs), but i'm curious if that is too much stress on the windlass? Worst case i could go to the 55lb and it would still be way better than stock. I also may add a bunch of chain as it appears i only have about 30ft now.
 
So my new to me 420DB has a Kodiak anchor that is slightly bent and seems undersized. On my last boat, a Rinker 360, i had installed a Rocna 20kg, and that was the best anchor i have ever used. We anchor alot and consistently had 3-4 boats on that anchor in pretty heavy winds and it always held. So i'm inclined to put a Rocna on my 420DB. However with the way the bow roller is designed it would seem that the Rocna roll bar or even possibly the shank of the anchor would come into contact with the half moon support brace that resides above the shank of the anchor.
Has anyone mounted a Rocna to a 420 or 44DB with original rollers with success? I'm wondering if the new Rocna Vulcan would fit better. It does not have the roll bar and it seems like the shank would sit much lower in the roller.
Any insight from those who upgraded?
As for size i was leaning toward the Rocna 33kg (72lbs), but i'm curious if that is too much stress on the windlass? Worst case i could go to the 55lb and it would still be way better than stock. I also may add a bunch of chain as it appears i only have about 30ft now.

I do not imagine that our bow rollers are different, but I suppose stranger things have happened, I'll put a picture below so you can see it the rollers are the same, so maybe this will help. The 25kg would be a great anchor for our size boats and what I was considering, but with the way we use our boat I wanted to be sure I had a decent storm anchor and the big Fortress anchors were storable but don't do a great job of holding in all conditions that we expected to encounter. I made the decision to buy what I considered to be a really good anchor in storm size for our boat and just carry it as the main bower, that is the 33kg.
You are correct in your assumption that the shank of the 33 will contact the hoop on the roller. It is so close that the anchor wedges under the hoop and can get stuck there. It's really close. So close that maybe depending on who welded the hoop on the day your roller was made, it might fit, or it might be a little tighter than mine. We traveled to Florida and the Bahamas last winter and just left it the way it was, which wasn't that big of a deal, figuring when we got back, I would downsize to the 25 and sell the big one. What I did when we returned home this spring was shave a little of the shank away, about an 1/8 or 3/16", in the area where it made contact with the hoop so it wouldn't get stuck on occasion, as there was no way I was giving up the performance of that anchor, and I assume the 25 would be just as impressive, but the modification was minimal and then I have the big guy.
I run it without a swivel and have no issues at all of it not righting itself on retrieval.
I have a Lofrans Progress 1 and have no issues with the windlass not being able to handle it and I have all chain rode so it not only handles the weight of the anchor but also the weight of the chain when hauling it up from deep water anchorages. It is not unusual that the anchor buries so deep that it has to be driven out, but have never had issues doing it. I usually am on the bow when retrieving so when we get the boat right over the anchor I flip down the chain stop and she drives it out. The chain stop removes the stress on the windlass. The old Kodiak rarely held on to the bottom well enough that it had to be driven out.

Pic of the anchor before I shaved a little shank off. You can get an idea of the clearances. The tip of the fluke can not come in contact with the boat, it just won't happen so don't worry about that.
IMG_0782.JPG

You can see that it is almost home, shaving the little bit off allows it to come in just a touch more so that the shank lays down flat in the roller up top and won't wedge under the hoop.
So if you really want the 33kg, it can work. I won't give it up, but the 25kg would be a great choice also.

As an edit I should add that if you are really looking for the 33, I can try to grab some pictures of how it lies now after the shank modification, the next time I'm at the boat.
 
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Thanks for the reply. It appears to be the same roller. If you happen to be at the boat and grab a picture than great, but don't go out of your way. This sounds like a good option. I would likely modify similarly. OR i could always go with the new Vulcan style. Although i have heard its not quite as good as the original Rocna.
 
I have met a few people that had the Vulcan, they liked them. They purchased them because the regular wouldn’t work for them. Their boats had bow pulpits, couldn’t have a roll bar
 
Craigsward, We have the same boat, we put a 25kg Rocna on it 2 years ago traveled the rivers to Florida, anchored in the Keys & spent time in the Bahamas last spring. Never dragged anchor, love it, looks great on the boat too. That being said I scored a deal on a 33kg Rocna this summer which I will bring down & put on the boat next month. So, my3sons, thanks for the heads up on the shank, I will do a little grinding before I head down. I do attach it with a Mantus 5/16’ swivel. Ours came with a bent Kodiak also ????
 
Well, you could go some pretty serious damage to the keel and the boat won't sink. Of course now that there is a hole in it....

It's not structural and wouldn't help much with the pressure that would exist. It you have structural damage / penetration at that location of your keel, you would have quite a lot going on and the hole in the walkway wouldn't be a difference--maker, I don't think!
 
New Topic: Last year I replaced my Radar and NAVIGATOR Chartplotter. 2005 420 Sedan Bridge. It required me to also replace my dash panels. I want to sell the old stuff, but can't find a "For Sale" section on the SRC Site. Everything is in excellent condition. Attached are pics and will let go for $300. Plus shipping. Suggestions?
420 dash pic 1.jpg
420 dash pic 2.jpg
420 dash pic 3.jpg
 
Hey Guys, I’ve got a small red light located on my transom just above the hole for the shore power leads that is flashing .. Does anyone know what it’s trying to tell me? Thanks
That's aftermarket. I don't have it either.
 
New Topic: Last year I replaced my Radar and NAVIGATOR Chartplotter. 2005 420 Sedan Bridge. It required me to also replace my dash panels. I want to sell the old stuff, but can't find a "For Sale" section on the SRC Site. Everything is in excellent condition. Attached are pics and will let go for $300. Plus shipping. Suggestions?View attachment 76066 View attachment 76067 View attachment 76068
There is a General parts classified thread for anything but boats for sale on the forums page.
 
New guy here.

I have yet another Racor question that I could not answer myself searching the forums.

Since I closed on the boat only a couple of weeks ago, this is my first winterization, assisted by the previous owner. Before opening the engine Racors I turned off the fuel valve on top of each fuel tank. In spite of this I had a continuous refilling and leaking out the top of each Racor during the time I had the tops off. I quickly replaced each filter element, but thankfully did not need to replace the O rings.

I collected most of the overflowing fuel, but it seemed to never end. Is there an end to the flow with the tank shutoff closed or is there something else I need to do to stop the flow next year?

Thanks in advance.

Chip
 
New guy here.

I have yet another Racor question that I could not answer myself searching the forums.

Since I closed on the boat only a couple of weeks ago, this is my first winterization, assisted by the previous owner. Before opening the engine Racors I turned off the fuel valve on top of each fuel tank. In spite of this I had a continuous refilling and leaking out the top of each Racor during the time I had the tops off. I quickly replaced each filter element, but thankfully did not need to replace the O rings.

I collected most of the overflowing fuel, but it seemed to never end. Is there an end to the flow with the tank shutoff closed or is there something else I need to do to stop the flow next year?

Thanks in advance.

Chip
Sounds like you turned off the return valves, not the supply valves. Your parts manual says you have a valve for each. See if you can find a second valve on top of the tank.
 

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Does anybody have info on a pre-made kit of the sea dek material for my 2005 420 sedan bridge? I don't really want to do the templating myself and I was hoping someone had a connection that sells this in a pre-cut kit for my particular sea ray. I got a custom quote and it was $10,000 for the flybridge, stairs, cockpit and swim platform (ouch)!!
 

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