Who runs the Merc. winter solution through your engines?

timemachine

Member
Jul 11, 2009
403
Watch Hill, RI
Boat Info
2005 48 Sundancer
Engines
Cummins 530HO
I have done this since buying the boat in 3 years ago and the boats a 2006. however a friend does not and swears that just loading up on the fuel stabilizer works fine. I know a local mechanic who winterizes and he does not do it to the boats he takes care of. Is it really that beneficial to run this solution?

for those of you unfamilar Merc recommends a solution of gas, 2 stroke mix, and stabilizer run through the motor for a set period of time. Basically a fogging solution.
 
I'm with your buddy on this one. Load up with fuel stabilizer and skip the rest. Has worked for too many years to count,
 
so easy to do it doesn't pay not to. After stabilizing all gas in the tank ahead of time and running it through, on the day I shut her down for good, I remove the water seperating filter, poor out half and refill with 2 cycle. Re-install, pinch off the gas line from the tank to the filter and run it until it runs out of gas.
 
There seem to be several threads on CSR right now, all of which include people who seem to want to take shortcuts during winterization, and who want to not follow the manufacturers recommended procedure. Is it that hard to do it right?

First, you should stabilize the fuel in the tanks, and top them off. Then run the boat for a while, to be sure the stabilized fuel has passed throughout the fuel system. Then, when you are ready to winterize the engines, make up a couple gallons of the fuel "cocktail", using 2-cycle oil and stabilizer, in the ratios specified by Mercury Marine. Next, remove the old fuel filters, and discard them, prime the new fuel filters with the cocktail, and install them. Finally, disconnect the fuel line from the tank, and connect the fuel line to the cocktail tank. Run the engines on this cocktail while you are flushing them with fresh water to warm them up, and also while you are running anti-freeze through the raw water system. Short and sweet. Reconnect the fuel line to the tank when finished, and you're ready to go in the spring.

Those of you not using oil in the proper ratio, or relying on just the stabilizer, are courting disaster. The exact ratio of oil, stabilizer, and fuel has been developed by Mercury Marine engineers to meet a variety of considerations - proper oil film generation on internal engine parts, compatibility with the fuel system and injectors, and proper storage chemistry of the fuel, to name a few. I have no respect for dealers or mechanics who have developed their own "methods" to winterize, just because they think it works, or the local old timer said it was ok.

Dale
 
Can the cocktail be used on carbed engines? Or is this for EFI/MPI engines only?
 
We use the cocktail mix for all of the reasons mentioned above. It just doesn't pay to NOT do it. I'm sure there are marinas that do more winterizations than us, but we do about 400-450 every year. Time is money - if there was a quicker way to do it and still get the results we want - we would do it. But, there isn't. I do the same thing for my boat and the boats that I winterize on my own time.
 
Can the cocktail be used on carbed engines? Or is this for EFI/MPI engines only?

The reason for the exact ratio is because of the injectors (MPI is even more sensitive than EFI). Yes, you could do the cocktail method, but with a carb, it's even easier. Assuming your fuel is treated (best to have treated fuel all season, especially if you have ethanol in your gas), just pick up a can of CRC Engine Stor and spray that directly into the carb while the engine is running. When you see a nice cloud of white smoke coming out of the exhaust, shut her down. You're done. Now you can drain the block and manifolds, then refill with AF through the t-stat housing hoses.
 
You do not need to make the cocktail for older, carbed engines. For those, just stabilize the fuel (in topped-off tanks), change the filters, run the engine for a while, then use fogging oil from a spray can to stall the engines out. They'll smoke like crazy, and that's exactly what you want to see. Just remember to do the fogging step last, while you are running antifreeze through the engines. You want to fog as the last step, and not start the engines again until springtime. Oil changes and other winterizing steps should already be completed by the time you fog.

The cocktail solution was stipulated by Mercury Marine after the advent of fuel injection, to both properly treat and store the entire fuel system and injectors, and because it can be difficult to spray fogging oil into a fuel injected engine, with all the variations in air filter / flame arrestor configurations. Also, some engine sensors located in the intake manifold may be vulnerable to being directly sprayed with fogging oil.

Dale
 
The reason for the exact ratio is because of the injectors (MPI is even more sensitive than EFI). Yes, you could do the cocktail method, but with a carb, it's even easier. Assuming your fuel is treated (best to have treated fuel all season, especially if you have ethanol in your gas), just pick up a can of CRC Engine Stor and spray that directly into the carb while the engine is running. When you see a nice cloud of white smoke coming out of the exhaust, shut her down. You're done. Now you can drain the block and manifolds, then refill with AF through the t-stat housing hoses.

Thanks, I've been doing it through the carb typically. I usually change the water separator at the same time, and it wouldn't be hard to dump some 2 cycle in the filer when I reinstall it. I was just curious.

We don't have E10 in our marina fuel. Straight 87/89
 
Thanks, I've been doing it through the carb typically. I usually change the water separator at the same time, and it wouldn't be hard to dump some 2 cycle in the filer when I reinstall it. I was just curious.

We don't have E10 in our marina fuel. Straight 87/89

Given the choice, I'd prefer through the carb. It kills a lot more mosquitoes that way!

Just a suggestion, but even w/o ethanol, it's still a good idea to run a stabilizer year round. Unless you go through the gas quick enough that it doesn't matter. Seems that the gas, now a days, doesn't stay "good" nearly as long as it used to.
 
Given the choice, I'd prefer through the carb. It kills a lot more mosquitoes that way!

Just a suggestion, but even w/o ethanol, it's still a good idea to run a stabilizer year round. Unless you go through the gas quick enough that it doesn't matter. Seems that the gas, now a days, doesn't stay "good" nearly as long as it used to.

I agree, absolutely its a good idea. We typically "top off" the tanks every time we go out, doesn't hurt the wallet so much.
 
I'm a newbie and I have a question on the "cocktail" fogging method. I have a 2002 280 Sundancer with 4.2 Ltr MPI mercruiser twins.


Is there anything tricky about disconecting the fuel line ? Do I have to relieve the pressure first ?
I don't see any kind of fuel shut off valve. Do I just unscrew it at the water separating filters ?

A related question: When I replace the water separating filters do they simply uncrew like a bulb or do I have to relieve pressure in the line first ?


Thanks
 
I put connectors on my fuel tank cylinoids so the tanks are off when I do it but little to no fuel spills out. I ended up running the cocktail and ready for shrink wrap.
 
I'm a newbie and I have a question on the "cocktail" fogging method. I have a 2002 280 Sundancer with 4.2 Ltr MPI mercruiser twins.


Is there anything tricky about disconecting the fuel line ? Do I have to relieve the pressure first ?
I don't see any kind of fuel shut off valve. Do I just unscrew it at the water separating filters ?

A related question: When I replace the water separating filters do they simply uncrew like a bulb or do I have to relieve pressure in the line first ?


Thanks

Don't crack the fittings right after the engine has run. Give it about 15 minutes, do it slowly, and you'll be fine. There's even less to worry about with the filters. Yes, they simply unscrew.
 
No short cuts taken. I follow the Mercruiser Service manual for my model and year engines. Here is an excerpt from the manual:
Power Package Layup​
NOTICERefer to “Cold Weather or Extended Storage,” “Precautions,” in this section, BEFORE proceeding.​
IMPORTANT: Mercury MerCruiser strongly recommends that this service be performedby an Authorized Mercury MerCruiser Dealer. Damage caused by freezing ISNOT covered by the MerCruiser Limited Warranty.​
1. Fill fuel tank(s) with fresh gasoline that does not contain alcohol and a sufficient amountof Quicksilver Gasoline Stabilizer for Marine Engines to treat gasoline. Follow instructionson container.2.​
If boat is to be placed in storage with fuel containing alcohol in fuel tanks (if fuelwithout alcohol is not available): Fuel tanks should be drained as low as possible andQuicksilver Gasoline Stabilizer for Marine Engines added to any fuel remaining in thetank. Refer to “Fuel Requirements” for additional information.
NOTE:​
If desired, a portable fuel tank can be used to perform the remainder of the powerpackage layup procedures. Be sure to add an appropriate amount of Gasoline Stabilizer tothe portable tank.
3. Run engine sufficiently to bring it up to normal operating temperature and allow fuel withQuicksilver Gasoline Stabilizer to circulate through fuel system.4. Shut off engine.5. Change oil and oil filter.6. Flush cooling system. Refer to “Flushing Cooling System” procedure.7. Close the fuel shutoff valve, if equipped. If no fuel shutoff valve is present, a suitablemethod must be employed to STOP the flow of fuel from the fuel tank to the enginebefore proceeding.​
SERVICE MANUAL NUMBER 24 MAINTENANCE​
90-861327--1 OCTOBER 1999 Page 1B-41​
8. Prepare EFI fuel system for extended storage as follows:a. Allow engine to cool down.b. Remove the water separating fuel filter.c. Pour out a small amount of fuel into a suitable container, then add approximately 2fluid ounces (60 ml) of Quicksilver 2-Cycle Outboard Oil to fuel in the water separatingfuel filter.d. Reinstall water separating fuel filter.e. Start and operate engine at idle speed until the water separating fuel filter and fuelinjection system are empty and engine stops.f. Remove and discard water separating fuel filter.g. Install new filter.​
 
I'm a newbie and I have a question on the "cocktail" fogging method. I have a 2002 280 Sundancer with 4.2 Ltr MPI mercruiser twins.


Is there anything tricky about disconecting the fuel line ? Do I have to relieve the pressure first ?
I don't see any kind of fuel shut off valve. Do I just unscrew it at the water separating filters ?

A related question: When I replace the water separating filters do they simply uncrew like a bulb or do I have to relieve pressure in the line first ?


Thanks
I was wondering the same.
 
IMG_4230.JPG
We stopped winterizing with the introduction of heated storage. Other than stabilizers in full fuel tanks, fluid changes, and shutting down heads, water systems, fridges and ice makers that's about it for us. We do clean things very thoroughly. Most people who store in heated buildings do the same.
 
2-cycle oil as a “fogging” agent is not necessary. Stabilizer, antifreeze, the typical procedures thousands of owners have used for decades is good enough.

Besides, what is the relationship between 2-cycle oil in your 4-cycle engine? Don’t tell me it’s lubricant please.
 
2-cycle oil as a “fogging” agent is not necessary. Stabilizer, antifreeze, the typical procedures thousands of owners have used for decades is good enough.

Besides, what is the relationship between 2-cycle oil in your 4-cycle engine? Don’t tell me it’s lubricant please.
2-cycle oil as a “fogging” agent is not necessary. Stabilizer, antifreeze, the typical procedures thousands of owners have used for decades is good enough.

Besides, what is the relationship between 2-cycle oil in your 4-cycle engine? Don’t tell me it’s lubricant please.
That’s what the owners manual recommends
 
2-cycle oil as a “fogging” agent is not necessary. Stabilizer, antifreeze, the typical procedures thousands of owners have used for decades is good enough.

Besides, what is the relationship between 2-cycle oil in your 4-cycle engine? Don’t tell me it’s lubricant please.

Some don’t ever fog and have no issues.

I prefer to fog the motor. The thought of having a coating of oil on the exposed cylinder walls helps me hibernate in the winter.
 

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