420/44 DB Owners Club

Has anyone replaced their analog tachs? I have one that is dancing and slightly off even after it settles down. Can these be replaced for an exact match or be sent somewhere to be rebuilt?
When we purchased our boat we also had dancing tachs, tapping them would make them jump or settle down … no consistency. I planned on replacing them but tried the recommendation of rotating the switches on the rear side back and forth several times - this solved the jumping around. I purchased a laser tach and verified that they are accurate. They have both been rock solid all season. Was an easy and cheap fix!

I have a multi-year plan to upgrade my electronics and plan to obtain the RPM's digitally on the new device(s) (chartplotter or replacement for Systems Monitor).
 
Several have replaced them with Aetna digitals. Several threads on them. Myself and at least one other member has posted on the 400DB thread about ours.
Mark, with these tachs are you able to program in the number of hours from the tachs being removed so the total remains accurate? if not, I wonder how that might play in the mind of a buyer when the physical view (on the new tach) is very different than the actual (old plus new)?
 
I think most people would hold on to the old tachs and give to potential buyer. We looked at an 04 420 DA which had 40 hrs on the replacement tachs. Seller said they had about 400 hours but never produced the old ones.
 
I did look at the solution from Seaboard Marine and they have the ability to program in your old hrs … wasn't sure if this is possible with the more commercial offerings.
 
Can someone enlighten me as to how the overboard discharge works on our boats? I don't think i'll ever be able to use it in the waters that we boat but i would like to know how it operates. Currently the seacock is in the open position but there is no handle attached. I tried to close it with a replacement handle over the summer but it was pretty stiff. I didn't want to make my situation worse so I left it as is since i'll be hauling it in the coming weeks. I noticed that there are wires connected to the seacock, I assume that there is some sort of sensor. I also noticed i have a switch in the electrical panel but doesn't seem to energize when pressed.
 
Can someone enlighten me as to how the overboard discharge works on our boats? I don't think i'll ever be able to use it in the waters that we boat but i would like to know how it operates. Currently the seacock is in the open position but there is no handle attached. I tried to close it with a replacement handle over the summer but it was pretty stiff. I didn't want to make my situation worse so I left it as is since i'll be hauling it in the coming weeks. I noticed that there are wires connected to the seacock, I assume that there is some sort of sensor. I also noticed i have a switch in the electrical panel but doesn't seem to energize when pressed.

Assuming it is the same as mine (same boat, you just have the next generation) there is a 12v breaker on the panel for the overboard discharge, that needs to be on for it to work.
The seacock has to be open, those wires you refer to on the seacock sense when the seacock is open and will allow the overboard discharge to work when you turn on the rocker switch for the overboard discharge pump.
If it's not working, make sure the 12v breaker is on and double check to be sure the seacock is really in the open position, if it's closed, the rocker switch will not activate it.
The seacock may be closed as closing it and removing the handle is a method that some folks use to "lock" the system to stay compliant with no discharge zones.
 
On mine, the electrical wires go to a plate that is supposed to be bolted to the seacock in such a manner that when the handle is in the open position on the seacock, it makes a button on the plate. This button must be pushed to allow the macerator pump to come on and pump overboard. Mine is not hooked up meaning the plate is not attached to the seacock, but my surveyor figured it out during my survey.

Bennett
 
I'll add that just fyi, the overboard discharge pump is sealand's "T" pump (as opposed to the vacuflush's "s" pump) The T pump has 2 duckbills instead of 4, one on each side of the bellows, the duckbills are installed to prevent sea water from flowing into the holding tank when the overboard discharge is open. If your seacock is open as you said above, I am wondering if you experienced your holding tank emptying itself at all. It is not uncommon for the venturi effect against the thru hull caused by running on plane to pull the contents of the tank out when the valve is open. You can also tell when the duck bills are shot by opening the seacock on an empty tank while the boat is not moving. You will hear seawater flushing into the tank through the bad duckbills, assuming the pump and tank bottom are below the boats waterline. Always close the overboard discharge seacock after discharging.
Also, when it come time to change those duckbills, the fittings on the pump that need to be removed to replace the duckbills are a left handed thread as opposed to the "s" pumps, which are right handed.
That's it in a nutshell.
 
Assuming it is the same as mine (same boat, you just have the next generation) there is a 12v breaker on the panel for the overboard discharge, that needs to be on for it to work.
The seacock has to be open, those wires you refer to on the seacock sense when the seacock is open and will allow the overboard discharge to work when you turn on the rocker switch for the overboard discharge pump.
If it's not working, make sure the 12v breaker is on and double check to be sure the seacock is really in the open position, if it's closed, the rocker switch will not activate it.
The seacock may be closed as closing it and removing the handle is a method that some folks use to "lock" the system to stay compliant with no discharge zones.
I'll add that just fyi, the overboard discharge pump is sealand's "T" pump (as opposed to the vacuflush's "s" pump) The T pump has 2 duckbills instead of 4, one on each side of the bellows, the duckbills are installed to prevent sea water from flowing into the holding tank when the overboard discharge is open. If your seacock is open as you said above, I am wondering if you experienced your holding tank emptying itself at all. It is not uncommon for the venturi effect against the thru hull caused by running on plane to pull the contents of the tank out when the valve is open. You can also tell when the duck bills are shot by opening the seacock on an empty tank while the boat is not moving. You will hear seawater flushing into the tank through the bad duckbills, assuming the pump and tank bottom are below the boats waterline. Always close the overboard discharge seacock after discharging.
Also, when it come time to change those duckbills, the fittings on the pump that need to be removed to replace the duckbills are a left handed thread as opposed to the "s" pumps, which are right handed.
That's it in a nutshell.

Excellent post's/info. Mark
 
Hey Guys, I’ve got a small red light located on my transom just above the hole for the shore power leads that is flashing .. Does anyone know what it’s trying to tell me? Thanks
 

Attachments

  • 30056DC5-48DD-499F-A0D6-70027871A34A.jpeg
    30056DC5-48DD-499F-A0D6-70027871A34A.jpeg
    55.1 KB · Views: 173
Hey Guys, I’ve got a small red light located on my transom just above the hole for the shore power leads that is flashing .. Does anyone know what it’s trying to tell me? Thanks

I don't have that light!
 
  • Like
Reactions: AEO
Can someone enlighten me as to how the overboard discharge works on our boats? I don't think i'll ever be able to use it in the waters that we boat but i would like to know how it operates. Currently the seacock is in the open position but there is no handle attached. I tried to close it with a replacement handle over the summer but it was pretty stiff. I didn't want to make my situation worse so I left it as is since i'll be hauling it in the coming weeks. I noticed that there are wires connected to the seacock, I assume that there is some sort of sensor. I also noticed i have a switch in the electrical panel but doesn't seem to energize when pressed.

In addition to what everyone else has said, on my boat the overhang on the side of the handle opposite the attachment nut is what makes the connection to the interlock switch. When you open the valve, the overhang pushes the switch, completing the circuit and enabling the overboard discharge pump to be energized. Without the handle, you would need to enable the switch another way.
 
I hit rocks with mine and the props bashed several holes thru the bottom with chunks of the rocks. I looked at the area during the repairs and saw no evidence of any core material. There is an inner hull and space between the inner and outer hull. I only had water coming into the bilge due to a pin hole in the walk between the engines. I had no strut or rudder damage and the repairs still cost $35000 including the 35 mile tow to the yard.

Hey Carpe, can you explain what you mean by and inner and outer hull. Are you referring to the walk between the engines as in inner hull, or something else?

Regarding the walk, I actually put an access hatch in it because I suspected there was water inside the cavity that couldn't escape. I really don't like inaccessible cavities. There was water, in fact. I don't know the source, but I believe it was entering from the front and/or rear bilge through small cracks or holes, and then had trouble escaping. It is dry now, but I see traces of water from time to time and I think there are a number of places water can seep into that area from.

It was suggested to me by someone at Sea Ray that you can actually remove the fiberglass that makes up the walkway and replace it with removable panels of some sort. It's not structural at all...
 
All I know is when I had several 1 inch punctures in my hull in the prop tunnels I had no water intrusion to the bilge except thru two little pin holes in the center walk area. It took about two hours for the pump alarm to sound.
I slept soundly knowing I could have a hole in my hull yet not take on a huge quantity of water.
 
Looking at a 2006 44 Sedan Bridge with about 800 hours on Cummins Diesels. I would be interested on any thoughts all of you may have on this boat, year, and engines. This is the first diesel boat I have considered and I am a little apprehensive about going to diesels regarding maintenance costs, etc. Appreciate any feedback.
Rob
 
Great boat great engine package. If your going to jump in to a boat of this caliber, although MX is a factor, whether it’s diesel or gas isn’t a huge difference. Your not going to want a boat that big with gas engines. If your handy and able, a lot of the service and preventative MX can be done yourself.
I’ve put 300 hrs on mine in four years doing the basic services and spend around 500 a year doing so. I’ve yet to have to have any major repairs done on the engines and I’m at 15 years and 400 hours total.
Jump in and enjoy!
Carpe Diem
 
Great boat great engine package. If your going to jump in to a boat of this caliber, although MX is a factor, whether it’s diesel or gas isn’t a huge difference. Your not going to want a boat that big with gas engines. If your handy and able, a lot of the service and preventative MX can be done yourself.
I’ve put 300 hrs on mine in four years doing the basic services and spend around 500 a year doing so. I’ve yet to have to have any major repairs done on the engines and I’m at 15 years and 400 hours total.
Jump in and enjoy!
Carpe Diem
The learning curve is not bad from gas to diesel--once you figure out filters, fluids, impellers-- Only thnins to make sure of are aftercooler and heat exchanger service was done and keep doing it--LOVE THE BOAT AND THE ENGINES
 
Hey Carpe, can you explain what you mean by and inner and outer hull. Are you referring to the walk between the engines as in inner hull, or something else?

Regarding the walk, I actually put an access hatch in it because I suspected there was water inside the cavity that couldn't escape. I really don't like inaccessible cavities. There was water, in fact. I don't know the source, but I believe it was entering from the front and/or rear bilge through small cracks or holes, and then had trouble escaping. It is dry now, but I see traces of water from time to time and I think there are a number of places water can seep into that area from.

It was suggested to me by someone at Sea Ray that you can actually remove the fiberglass that makes up the walkway and replace it with removable panels of some sort. It's not structural at all...

Hi Brian, I wondered about that sealed area and water. What did you do to add a hatch? pics?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,943
Messages
1,422,705
Members
60,927
Latest member
Jaguar65
Back
Top