Official 280 Sundancer Thread

I have an RPM question/request for opinion. Does anyone have an opinion or data based position on maximum sustained operating RPM? I was able to maintain about 25 knots while operating at about 3500 RPM. With the unusually warm weather this summer, everyone has been having issues with growth on the hull. I pulled mine in August and had the hull power washed, which improved efficiency, but I’m finding I need to run the engines at about 3850-3900 (and occasionally a bit over 4K) now to maintain 25 knots. My typical time spent at this speed has been about 30-45 min sustained. With no red line on the tacs, I don’t have a good feel for how high is too high. I do know the “feel” of the boat operating at ~3900 is comfortable. Thoughts?
 
I have an RPM question/request for opinion. Does anyone have an opinion or data based position on maximum sustained operating RPM? I was able to maintain about 25 knots while operating at about 3500 RPM. With the unusually warm weather this summer, everyone has been having issues with growth on the hull. I pulled mine in August and had the hull power washed, which improved efficiency, but I’m finding I need to run the engines at about 3850-3900 (and occasionally a bit over 4K) now to maintain 25 knots. My typical time spent at this speed has been about 30-45 min sustained. With no red line on the tacs, I don’t have a good feel for how high is too high. I do know the “feel” of the boat operating at ~3900 is comfortable. Thoughts?
Two additional data points: 1. the Mercruiser manual lists the max rpm at 4400-4800. 2. My pressure and temp readings for both engines remain perfect at the higher rpm (~50psi and ~150°).
 
Thank (both of) you.
Now I can google the name and take it from here!
 
Two additional data points: 1. the Mercruiser manual lists the max rpm at 4400-4800. 2. My pressure and temp readings for both engines remain perfect at the higher rpm (~50psi and ~150°).
Capt Sparky,

I have pretty much the same driveline as you. T4.3’s/Alphas but the older 210hp EFI’s. You likely have the 220hp MPI’s.

I just ran in the warm Gulf waters on a 90plus day at 3300rpm and 25knots with four adults on board. The motors were not laboring.

I would be concerned with having to push your engines up to 88 percent of WOT (3800/4400) to maintain a conservative comfortable cruise -especially since you were not doing that before you hauled it. Before your haul your numbers were very close to mine 3300-25 compared to 3500-25.
I don’t really trust the accuracy of the tachs. I do trust my ears. Do your engines sound like they are working harder than before? Are your trim tabs leaking down?
 
What's the air conditioning code if your heat is not working because the water is too cold? Flashing heat/ac light? Anyone have this? Praying its not my reversing valve.
 
Smxir
 

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That's what I'm wondering, is what temp is too low and is the code for that the flashing heat/ac lights like i got in a sequence of two flashes. There are 2 asterisks by that code on the Stat door all the way at the bottom.
 
New owner to my 05 280 DA this spring and leading into the fall, wondering simple and safe steps for my boat which will be left in covered slip over the winter. I have bilge heater, so I know that portion is safe. Understand gas, holding tanks, etc. Previous owner left me his galley heater as well. In the warmer Alabama fresh water, is this enough to properly maintain a boat I want to continue to use for warmer days through the winter? Past boats, I just winterized and stored until Spring rolled back around. I am sure there are lots of opinions, but again, we do have some very nice winter days which makes me want to keep it running. Thanks in advance. Mike
 
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In Charlotte we stay in the water year round. I don't winterize. I have a bilge heater and leave the heat in the cabin set at 55. The water temp here rarely gets below 45. I think the coldest i have seen was 38. Even if the air temp is below freezing you won't have a problem sitting in that kind of warm water.

When I leave the boat I open all the faucets to drain the lines and I leave the head door open and the cabinets under the sinks open so the warm air can circulate.
 
Thanks Jim - I do have a question which show mixed opinion all over this site. That is, what are your thoughts on running the AC/Heat system while away from the boat for long periods to avoid the "wear and tear"? I keep a fan and small humidifier plugged in when away for a few weeks to avoid this but ofter wonder why not just run what is on the boat. Again, I see mixed reviews on both sides of this question. The AC fan runs constantly and, of course, the compressor just comes on when needed.
 
I have an RPM question/request for opinion. Does anyone have an opinion or data based position on maximum sustained operating RPM? I was able to maintain about 25 knots while operating at about 3500 RPM. With the unusually warm weather this summer, everyone has been having issues with growth on the hull. I pulled mine in August and had the hull power washed, which improved efficiency, but I’m finding I need to run the engines at about 3850-3900 (and occasionally a bit over 4K) now to maintain 25 knots. My typical time spent at this speed has been about 30-45 min sustained. With no red line on the tacs, I don’t have a good feel for how high is too high. I do know the “feel” of the boat operating at ~3900 is comfortable. Thoughts?
Hi friends, I am looking to replace my steering wheel OEM #1526292, any ideas?
 
Thanks Jim - I do have a question which show mixed opinion all over this site. That is, what are your thoughts on running the AC/Heat system while away from the boat for long periods to avoid the "wear and tear"? I keep a fan and small humidifier plugged in when away for a few weeks to avoid this but ofter wonder why not just run what is on the boat. Again, I see mixed reviews on both sides of this question. The AC fan runs constantly and, of course, the compressor just comes on when needed.

Mike,

You can program the fan to run only when the compressor is on. Check your Cruisair manual for this setting. You can also set the unit to dehumidify mode during the summer. The unit will come on for shorter periods of time to remove moisture. Again this setting is in the manual.

I leave my unit on year round. Set at 55 in the winter and 76 during the remainder of the year. The unit does not run continuously at these settings. I have done this for a long time and never had a problem.
 
Hey Everyone, took me two solid weeks, staying up late, but I just read through this entire 335 page thread. We purchased our 2005 280 DA 4 days ago now in Fort Lauderdale, and it should be delivered Wednesday of next week to the marina on the Delaware river where we will be keeping it. There will be a few issues I have to deal with over the winter, but for now I am happy to finally be part of the Sea Ray owner's community. Hopefully in the future I'll be able to give back a bit with things I learn.
 
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I know that this is not for everyone, but I had a lot of problems with my gauges. Replacements were more expensive than upgrading , so I decided to go for a semi glass helm, and installed the vessel view 903. I am very happy with the results, and now have a much more usable dash full of information. I have to credit the guys at tecnografics for their help. If anyone wants info on the process or templates, let me know.
I was able to fit the axiom 12 where the old gauges were.
View attachment 74031 View attachment 74032 View attachment 74033
Paul, this is a fantastic modification, and updating the dash is one of the first things I want to do. I love the direction you went and would love to know more. Where did you get the backing plates?
 

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