Sea-Ya
New Member
Ok, Thank youSwitching from 1 to 2 to both is fine, just don’t switch to or past off.
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Ok, Thank youSwitching from 1 to 2 to both is fine, just don’t switch to or past off.
Not sure of your wiring configuration, but that switch isolates the batteries, so a charge isn't going to charge both when set to 1 or 2.I bought a 2020 SPX 230 this summer with dual battery. I was told both batteries would be charged when running on either 1,2 or both?
Depends. That would only be true if something like an ACR was also installed. Take a look at your battery wiring.I bought a 2020 SPX 230 this summer with dual battery. I was told both batteries would be charged when running on either 1,2 or both?
Depends. That would only be true if something like an ACR was also installed. Take a look at your battery wiring.
If you follow your battery cables, look where they go. The positives will go right to the switch. If you have an ACR (Google for automatic charging relay), then that will be wired BETWEEN each battery's positive terminal.I’m not much of an electrician so I really don’t know what to look for?
So the input to the ARC is alternator and or other dc charging voltage?1) The alternator will only charge the connected battery with a normal 1+2 switch. There is an inexpensive electrical widget called an Automatic Charging Relay (ACR) that will charge both batteries whenever the engine is running. It senses charge voltage and opens up a connection to both batteries, then disconnects when the system is discharging the batteries. This way you can run on 1 or 2 and use the other as a true backup. Blue Sea Add A Battery and Add A Battery Plus kits are popular and well regarded. I installed a plus kit so that I can plug it in at home the night before we go out, one of the best improvements I have made to the boat.
2) If you are running on #1, then you should anchor on #2. That way if your radio goes dead because you didn't have a full charge on #2, you still have your starting battery fully charged.
3) I am a relative newby, but I got stranded using the 1+2 switch in both. I am not sure how, but one of my batteries failed in a manner that kept the other from charging properly so that I didn't have enough juice to start the boat. Ended up buying two new batteries (because if they are interconnected you want to keep the same type and age) and the ACR. I always run on one battery now.
4) The bilge pump is wired directly to battery 1 as well as the bilge switch at the helm through 1 or 2, whichever is currently selected. The electronics will run off whatever battery is selected as well. The small bowriders don't have house batteries, although you can set one up using the blue sea kit. I didn't install the blue sea switch, but plan to create a house battery for the radio this winter because starting the boat interrupts the bluetooth connection.
Most typical Auto Combining Relays or Voltage Sensing Relays, are 2 posts. They simply combine or isolate the house bank from the main bank, depending on voltage. The main bank always sees alternator charge when engine is running.So the input to the ARC is alternator and or other dc charging voltage?
Do you then leave 1,2,both switch in position 1 and use it as dedicated start battery? use Battery 2 as dedicated House battery? and if needed place 1,2, both switch in both position to assist battery 1 with starting?
No doubt. Stereo use - especially upgraded stereos with amps/subs - can draw a lot of power."many here noted that there is no need for a house battery on a runabout"
I would argue that this needs to be based on boat use and not by size or type of boat. I know HUNDREDS of boaters with a house bank that gets used as such. Toons, day boats, runabouts, wake boats, etc.
True. A lot of this is personal preference. Plus, this thread is an EXTREMELY small sampling of boaters with dual batteries. And, I do agree with the others that it's best not to run on "both" as it could mask problems or even create worse problems, as mentioned. A battery that was used extensively with the engine off will also charge up better when it's the only one being charged.Everyone has their own personal situation, so no wrong or right here.
Most typical Auto Combining Relays or Voltage Sensing Relays, are 2 posts. They simply combine or isolate the house bank from the main bank, depending on voltage. The main bank always sees alternator charge when engine is running.
I would not assume that 1 is main cranking and 2 is house. of course, if both batteries are the same, then neither is either.
Here is where it gets fuzzy, and why I do not like to pair the 1/2/BOTH with an ACR. In an ideal setup, ALL loads go through the switch, making neither battery truly dedicated to anything. Regardless of what the ACR does with the engine running, you still have to manually use the switch, depending on how you use the boat. Just because bank-2 gets a charge with engine running, does not mean bank-1 has no loads drawing off it, when at anchor.
If there are loads wired direct to a battery, circumventing the switch, then the boat has the wrong switch!
I wouldn't assume that the original alternator is on there - nor that a replacement is exactly the same. You've got 35 years of who-knows-what's-been-done-to-the-boat going on. It could be the same - but assuming you're asking because of fuse sizing - probably best to find out for sure.Does anyone know what the output amps is on the 230MR V8? I have the manual but dont see it listed.
The device in your link, is an ACR/VSR. As stated, with the simple 2 post ACR's, the wiring is such that the main cranking always gets alternator charge. The device has zero bearing on that, despite the claim in the link.Personally this switch was a good idea 30 years ago. My idea is to split the battery's and make them dedicated. #1 is solely for starting, #2 is house\everything else and was going to accomplish this with a smart isolation switch (still researching the best) like in this link https://www.wirthco.com/battery-doctor/isolator I haven't read up on this one completely. But looking for one that when boat running it will give priority to charge start battery before charging house and when starting, if start battery for some reason is low bypass isolation and allow house battery to assist with start. So far I have only found ones that allow for manual bypass, which would do I guess. IMO this dual switch equals a quick way to strand you, plus I don't want to jerk with a manual switch.