Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Forward port seat back question... The one that's against the cabin near the cup holder.

It seems one of the studs snapped, so the bottom corner is no longer secured, I removed the cabin trim and access is pretty easy esp for the snapped stud. I'm thinking I can have someone hold the back or use a big carpenter clamp to hold it while I drill out the remainder of stud. The question is this really a stud that threaded into threaded retainer in the wooden backing or is it something else, maybe expoyed in instead. It's kind of hard to see and while access is easy I'll be drilling somewhat blinded in trying to get the remainder out.

Also is there supposed to be any type of sealant around the this? It doesn't there is but the there is no signs of water getting into the core or the cabin liner so I'm a bit confused how it's sealed up.

Hope all that makes sense any help is appreciated.
 
When I took mine off, it was bolted - meaning the nuts were on the inside of the cabin.

If the bottom corner bothers you, pull the corner out and put a little adhesive caulk in there to hold it in place. Easy peasy.

No, there was never any sealant applied to the backside of any of those cushions.
 
Forward port seat back question... The one that's against the cabin near the cup holder.

It seems one of the studs snapped, so the bottom corner is no longer secured, I removed the cabin trim and access is pretty easy esp for the snapped stud. I'm thinking I can have someone hold the back or use a big carpenter clamp to hold it while I drill out the remainder of stud. The question is this really a stud that threaded into threaded retainer in the wooden backing or is it something else, maybe expoyed in instead. It's kind of hard to see and while access is easy I'll be drilling somewhat blinded in trying to get the remainder out.

Also is there supposed to be any type of sealant around the this? It doesn't there is but the there is no signs of water getting into the core or the cabin liner so I'm a bit confused how it's sealed up.

Hope all that makes sense any help is appreciated.

Any tips in removing the trim? I want to replace the cup holder with a 3 ring metal unit but am not sure how to gain access to the underside due to the headliner trim

Thanks,
John
 
When I took mine off, it was bolted - meaning the nuts were on the inside of the cabin.

If the bottom corner bothers you, pull the corner out and put a little adhesive caulk in there to hold it in place. Easy peasy.

No, there was never any sealant applied to the backside of any of those cushions.

It doesn't look hard to remove the whole seat but maybe adhesive is much simpler approach. I did find the right size threaded rod 10-24, I'll probably check it out more today. Thanks again for the idea :)

Any tips in removing the trim? I want to replace the cup holder with a 3 ring metal unit but am not sure how to gain access to the underside due to the headliner trim

Thanks,
John

Sorry I have the plastic cup holders, I believe the headliner is applied with adhesive, 3M has a good spray adhesive for headliners that I've used to touch up things on the boat. My Guess is you'd have to remove the panel with the light switch on it, there are a few screws with the white caps, and the light, I had a black trim piece on the panel cabinet that had to come off, the curtain track panel and light off. Then you can start checking out the headliner. On all those panels I mentioned there were no hidden screws.
 
It doesn't look hard to remove the whole seat but maybe adhesive is much simpler approach. I did find the right size threaded rod 10-24, I'll probably check it out more today. Thanks again for the idea :)
Sounds like you have it easier than I did when redoing my cockpit vinyl on my 260DA. In order to remove that layback cushion, I had to remove that covered panel on the inside of the boat (approximately where you'd hit your head going into the midberth - the one on the interior side of the layback cushion). However, when the boat was first assembled in the factory, that small panel must have been the first thing they installed - because I had to remove half of the interior to get at it, including the ceiling panel! Sort of like... to get "G" out, you first have to remove A, B, C, D, E and F. Oh well... SOMETHING has to be last! :)
 
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Following up on this.....

So after removing the seat back and investigating some more, the original posts are a 10-24 threaded stud welded to backing plate with spikes( like a t nut). Since it was only one stud that broke, I removed the staples in the vinyl near it enough that I could my hand in the seat cushion, removed the old plate, I then bought a T Nut and threaded rod, as well as two new nuts. I drilled the hole a little bigger so the t nut would fit. Slid the t nut in btw the seat cushion and backing, and threaded the rod into it until I felt it bottom on the nut, then took a nut and threaded it down the rod. held the top of the rod with a vice grip so I can tighten the nut down. This pulls the spikes in the t nut into the backing. Cut the rod the right length then restapled the vinyl.

Easy peasy fix. I think the underlying issue though is I have a slight crack in the vinyl that allows water in and the studs to rust. So eventually I'll have to have the vinyl replaced.
 
Good deal on the fix - thanks for the follow up.

I think the underlying issue though is I have a slight crack in the vinyl that allows water in and the studs to rust. So eventually I'll have to have the vinyl replaced.

Google for VLP Vinyl Repair...
 
I recently had an issue that all should be aware of. 2003 280 Sundancer, single 496, smartcraft but pre smartcraft gauges. Boat started shutting down shortly after start up, would restart and shut down again, then restart and run fine. This went on for about three weeks until Saturday of Labor Day when the boat would idle but die when put in gear. Vessel view showed a voltage problem but all signs led to a fuel starvation issue. Changed the canister fuel filter, no water, no change. Changed the in-line filter no better. Took a shot at new spark plugs, no better. Finally diagnosed as a short in the Trim/Tilt sensor limit switch. By passed and engine ran fine. If you have these symptoms be sure and check them out.
 
Does anyone know the routing from the dash to the radio. I want to install a new control for the radio in the cabin at the helm?
Thanks
 
Does anyone know the routing from the dash to the radio. I want to install a new control for the radio in the cabin at the helm?
Thanks
Most likely, under the headliner in the cabin.
 
Does anyone know the routing from the dash to the radio. I want to install a new control for the radio in the cabin at the helm?
Thanks
Here's what I did. It's way easier than trying to run the cable all the way to the dash, with the added benefit that the Admiral can easily change tunes and not have to invade the sanctity of the helm. And it's very easy for the Captain to reach back and mute/lower the volume when safety dictates
 

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Most likely, under the headliner in the cabin.
Here's what I did. It's way easier than trying to run the cable all the way to the dash, with the added benefit that the Admiral can easily change tunes and not have to invade the sanctity of the helm. And it's very easy for the Captain to reach back and mute/lower the volume when safety dictates

I really like this install as I saw it when you posted before. How did you run the cable from there to the radio? I have a hole in the dash for the current control and need to run the cable to the radio. Thinking that there must be someway without dropping the headliner.
 
I really like this install as I saw it when you posted before. How did you run the cable from there to the radio? I have a hole in the dash for the current control and need to run the cable to the radio. Thinking that there must be someway without dropping the headliner.
I routed the cable from the stereo, behind (outboard of) the midship berth closet, drilled a hole through to the port forward corner of the engine compartment, across the forward engine compartment bulkhead, came aft a little and followed the cockpit cooler drain line up and into the sink/cooler locker, routing the cable above the locker door, to the location pictured.
 
I routed the cable from the stereo, behind (outboard of) the midship berth closet, drilled a hole through to the port forward corner of the engine compartment, across the forward engine compartment bulkhead, came aft a little and followed the cockpit cooler drain line up and into the sink/cooler locker, routing the cable above the locker door, to the location pictured.

That's the same way I routed my wire for a JL Audio subwoofer I put in the same sink/cooler locker. (Yea, I know there is/was an OEM wire for a sub, but didn't know that at the time).
 
Finally diagnosed as a short in the Trim/Tilt sensor limit switch. By passed and engine ran fine. If you have these symptoms be sure and check them out.

So how did you figure that out?!!
 
I installed a Fusion Stereo on the Sabre. It can be controlled remotely with optional wireless remotes, or by phone app, a nmea 2000 net connection to a Garmin mfd and of course a wired remote. I’ve got to believe that there are other manufacturers who have a similar line up of remote options.

H
 
So how did you figure that out?!!
I didn't the tech did as it was a little above my knowledge bank. Sensor was cracked and shorting so he was getting a voltage drop at other sensors. They were searching for a fuel issue even though vessel view was showing a voltage issue. I'll start with what VV shows me from now on .
 
Simple question from a new owner of his first 280: A 2001 280DA, T4.3’s, Kohler gen.
( I do not have all the manuals.)
On the lower port helm, between the port and starboard engine start switches, there is another switch with a red triangle. See photo.
What is this middle switch for? I am afraid to push it.
 

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Simple question from a new owner of his first 280: A 2001 280DA, T4.3’s, Kohler gen.
( I do not have all the manuals.)
On the lower port helm, between the port and starboard engine start switches, there is another switch with a red triangle. See photo.
What is this middle switch for? I am afraid to push it.
It’s a crossover switch. If your battery is not fully charged, it will enable you to use the battery from the other engine to start the engine with the weak battery
Just hold down the triangle switch while starting the engine
 
Simple question from a new owner of his first 280: A 2001 280DA, T4.3’s, Kohler gen.
( I do not have all the manuals.)
On the lower port helm, between the port and starboard engine start switches, there is another switch with a red triangle. See photo.
What is this middle switch for? I am afraid to push it.
That is the emergency start switch. It shorts the two batteries so you (theoretically) should be able to start either either engine if one of your batteries is dead. Of course the remaining battery will need to have adequate cranking voltage available. There is a good thread on this topic on the Sport Cruiser page.
 

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