340 SUNDANCER THREAD

simply do not turn on the water pump. City water pressure will take over. City water pressure will not reverse itself back into your fresh water tank. Although I’ve read where people have used their wash down hose to top off their fresh water tank, whenever possible.
 
What speakerdude said, and congrats on the new boat.

As a good practice I never stay hooked up to the city water other then when we’re away someplace and staying on the boat. There’s a few reasons why I do this. First, if I was to sprig a leak, the water work keep flowing and likely cause damage vs the fresh water tank can’t leak anymore than what’s in it. Second reason is that I prefer to use the fresh water tank as much as possible as it help keep it fresh.
 
Ok after long weekend with new tabs.

Before when heavy with fuel and water.
.64mpg and when lighter .7mpg 24-26mph

Now loaded with fuel and water and stuff for 3 and 2 nights. .92mpg and 1.01 a@ 28-30mph depending on direction. So a solid .3mpg. On average and 3-4 mph..

I will say the bottom paint is new with the tabs so some can be accounted for that. But wow at the difference the way the boat ride on top water, bump a tab and the boat responds.


Have you noticed that your boat throws more spray with the enlarged tabs? I’m asking b/c I recently added to my tabs and I’m getting a lot of spray off the transom. Some of it is coming up through the oval cut outs in the swim platform and some coming off the outside. It’s so bad if we have the slightest flowing breeze the cockpit gets drenched, even the rear facing bench gets it.

Do you have this, and also, do you think I have them set back too far? They are about 3/8 of an inch back from where the original tab starts.

Here’s some pictures.
 

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We have owned our 340 for about 6 weeks now and have our dock all set up and are making ourselves at home. I would like to hook up to the city water on our dock to save the water in our holding tank. Is there a valve that I need to turn on to switch from the holding tank to the dock hose? We use a charcoal/carbon filter at the dock stand.
What speakerdude said, and congrats on the new boat.
As a good practice I never stay hooked up to the city water other then when we’re away someplace and staying on the boat. There’s a few reasons why I do this. First, if I was to sprig a leak, the water work keep flowing and likely cause damage vs the fresh water tank can’t leak anymore than what’s in it. Second reason is that I prefer to use the fresh water tank as much as possible as it help keep it fresh.
Ditto. Most of our crew fill and use the fresh water tank as needed and don't stay hooked up....and some other folks have gotten on the bandwagon since one friend's boat sank. He and his admiral woke up in the middle of the night with about two feet of water already inside the cabin. Granted, a failure of that magnitude probably is rare, but none of us want to take the chance whether we're on the boat or away. (And ditto on using the fresh water tank regularly so it stays cleaner, too, especially in the warm months when gunk grows a lot faster.)

Congrats on your new "home"!!

I haven't been around CSR for quite a while, but the 340 is still on my radar if I do get another cruiser, so I always visit this thread to see what's going on with everyone. My oldie but goodie 300DA is doing the job right now, and BF's 60' Sumerset arrives next week, so our hands will be full for the foreseeable future!
 
Have you noticed that your boat throws more spray with the enlarged tabs? I’m asking b/c I recently added to my tabs and I’m getting a lot of spray off the transom. Some of it is coming up through the oval cut outs in the swim platform and some coming off the outside. It’s so bad if we have the slightest flowing breeze the cockpit gets drenched, even the rear facing bench gets it.

Do you have this, and also, do you think I have them set back too far? They are about 3/8 of an inch back from where the original tab starts.

Here’s some pictures.
Sus I get a little if its really windy...not enough to bother you. the only thing i did was add drop fins on the side. The make the tab act one size larger. That may be why they don't spray as its hold the water under them.
IMG_0864.jpeg
 
I was reluctant to add the drop fins b/c it looks like the transom is a bit rounded, and each tab would be pointing inward a bit. But maybe it’s needed.
 
I have threads on here about my whole set up, I built nice big tabs with built in drop fins. And then once in the boat noticed the rounded transom, fin angle.... I cut them off and now just have the larger flat tabs. But I don’t have a bug spray issue. As mine are closer to the transom so less gap. I am betting by your pics, I am the guy that responded to you on facebook with a pic of mine running with showing the spray. It does wash under the platform so no spiders. It nothing up top. On a long ride the platform will actually be dry.
 
I'm considering going to look at a 1999 340 that's for sale near me in Michigan. It's priced low ($45k), which tells me there is probably a lot of TLC needed. The biggest red flag is that it is from Alabama, and spent most of its life in salt. 1300 hours on the boat, 500 on the twin 7.4L engines. Being from the great lakes, I know literally nothing about what salt does to a boat. What do I need to look out for? I'd obviously have a complete survey done on the boat and engines, but I'd like to get educated before I even get that far.

Another red flag is that the owner says the generator doesn't work, he doesn't know what's wrong and never investigated because he didn't need it. I'm sure it could be a million different things...assuming the worst case and I needed to replace it, what would the approx. cost be? Could be a good negotiating point lol

Thanks in advance!
 
Theres no way to know what the generator needs w/o more info. However it can be removed from the boat when you pull the manifold off the starboard motor. Buying a rebuild will vary in price, I would expect them to range from $3k to about $5k and a brand new one will be closer $8k to $10k.

The 7.4’s should be closed cooled, so the heads and blocks don’t have salt water flowing through them. However the exhaust components do have salt water in them, so I would plan on doing manifolds, risers, and elbows, assuming they haven’t been done in the last 3 or 4 years. Maybe the coolers/exchangers too, other than that... if a compression & leak down test show good numbers, and she runs good, I’d say proceed.
 
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We have owned our 340 for about 6 weeks now and have our dock all set up and are making ourselves at home. I would like to hook up to the city water on our dock to save the water in our holding tank. Is there a valve that I need to turn on to switch from the holding tank to the dock hose? We use a charcoal/carbon filter at the dock stand.
No valve to turn on or off...just connect the shore water to the fitting in the transom locker....no need to have the fresh water pump breaker on...the shore water does not need the pump...if you do not have water flowing from the shore water supply you likely have a bad water pressure regulator which is on the other side of the fitting in the transom locker...it is very common for it to go bad over time....mine is bad but I have not replaced it yet but will soon....

Good luck....
cliff
 
Mittens,, the salt plays hell with the electrical, wiring and anything that can corrode will. Not sure if the boat has a closed cooling system or not....Thats the first concern...2nd being exhaust and manifolds. Get a good marine surveyor and mechanic to look it over with a fine tooth comb. Look over the bilge, and metal parts on the boat, inspect the wiring and terminal blocks looking for the tel tale green corrosion. It may be a great buy and with a little TLC a great purchase
 
I think you meant MrLean?

I am not boat shopping and my boat is freshwater it’s whole life.
 
Can anyone tell on my 2001 340 with 7.4 MPI's which engine coolant is used to heat the hot water heater?? I am using coolant and can't find the source....
 
Theres a bypass hose off the port engine that heats the water in the tank while the engines running.
 
Thanks, that makes sense... Unfortunately, I am loosing coolant from my Starboard Engine...

As you likely already know there are only two ways to loose coolant....it is leaking out somewhere or it is being burned in a combustion chamber in one or more cylinders...hopefully it is just a leak you have not found yet...

Good luck with it....

cliff
 
I have threads on here about my whole set up, I built nice big tabs with built in drop fins. And then once in the boat noticed the rounded transom, fin angle.... I cut them off and now just have the larger flat tabs. But I don’t have a bug spray issue. As mine are closer to the transom so less gap. I am betting by your pics, I am the guy that responded to you on facebook with a pic of mine running with showing the spray. It does wash under the platform so no spiders. It nothing up top. On a long ride the platform will actually be dry.

My spray issues is solved...

I had them re-weld the tab extension so the entire tab sits flush to the original tab, and that solved the issue. Thanks for the feedback.
 
Ditto. Most of our crew fill and use the fresh water tank as needed and don't stay hooked up....and some other folks have gotten on the bandwagon since one friend's boat sank. He and his admiral woke up in the middle of the night with about two feet of water already inside the cabin. Granted, a failure of that magnitude probably is rare, but none of us want to take the chance whether we're on the boat or away. (And ditto on using the fresh water tank regularly so it stays cleaner, too, especially in the warm months when gunk grows a lot faster.)

Congrats on your new "home"!!

I haven't been around CSR for quite a while, but the 340 is still on my radar if I do get another cruiser, so I always visit this thread to see what's going on with everyone. My oldie but goodie 300DA is doing the job right now, and BF's 60' Sumerset arrives next week, so our hands will be full for the foreseeable future!
Boatless now, but when I was not and connected to onshore water I kept the pressure as low as possible. Barely enough to get a good drip at the faucets and flush the head. And when away from the boat the hose was disconnected.
 
My spray issues is solved...

I had them re-weld the tab extension so the entire tab sits flush to the original tab, and that solved the issue. Thanks for the feedback.
Good deal! Post a pic if you had one.
 
I'm a new owner of a '05 340. Should the AC Converter switch be "on" while connected to shore power? Do the batteries charge if it's in the "off" position? Thanks in advance.
 

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